Fixing rear door lock on a 2000 S80 2.9L?

rileyu · Post by **rileyu** » 22 Oct 2018, 14:39

Hey. First post here

I recently got my first car (I’m 18) and decided to get a 2000 Volvo S80 2.9l. It’s not the turbo version. It had a few bumps and scrapes, with the occasional dent. I fixed a few things including the upper engine mount and a rear tail light. The sunroof’s glued shut, but that’s fine I suppose. It’s a little bit of a work in progress, but I got it for just shy of 2 grand and it’s a first car. Mechanically it’s great. Got a transmission flush and oil change day 1 of owning it.

Anyway, that’s besides the point. I believe the rear driver side door lock is broken. The fuse was missing when I checked, so I bought a new one and stuck it in. All rear locks worked, except for the driver side back door. It would go down, spaz up and down, then go back up. This messed with the whole system and they all went unlocked in response. I took the fuse out for now, as I can’t find a good tutorial to replace the actuator. (I did take the door apart but I’m not sure how to get the actuator out.) The gas cap, trunk, and rear doors don’t have power locks because of the fuse being removed.

Could anyone point be to a tutorial, or help me in solving this? I think it needs a new actuator.

Thanks, Riley.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 24 Oct 2018, 23:04

Riley: Here is a video from an S60:

Watch it and compare it to what you have. It should be similar or contain enough information to figure it out.

The guy mentions a rivet - pay attention to this in the event your car has said piece riveted and you are having an issue removing a piece.

I think the video takes apart way more than is required, but it gives you a good look at how everything is assembled.

Here is a write up for an XC90 which should be very similar to your S80.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... k-actuator

Between the two you should be able to figure it out.

Another thing you can try if you don't mine losing the auto rear door lock is to unplug the power feed. Not sure what effect it will have on the rest of the system, but I would guess you can at least lock your doors until you have a permanent solution. May want to test this out with your windows open (or another person in the car) so you can get back in if it shuts down the entire system (which I doubt).

rileyu · Post by **rileyu** » 24 Oct 2018, 23:43

SuperHerman wrote: ↑24 Oct 2018, 23:04
Another thing you can try if you don't mine losing the auto rear door lock is to unplug the power feed. Not sure what effect it will have on the rest of the system, but I would guess you can at least lock your doors until you have a permanent solution. May want to test this out with your windows open (or another person in the car) so you can get back in if it shuts down the entire system (which I doubt).

Thanks for the reply! I'll definitely go at this using the resources you posted. I'll post back once I try it.

I did try unplugging the power feed, however it kept the "rear door open" alert. Hopefully I can get this done before the winter so i'm not crawling around the seat and getting snow everywhere.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 25 Oct 2018, 10:42

Keep us posted. When unplugging the power feed - is the only result besides being unoperational, the "rear door open" alert? Everything else work fine?

rileyu · Post by **rileyu** » 25 Oct 2018, 13:35

SuperHerman wrote: ↑25 Oct 2018, 10:42 Keep us posted. When unplugging the power feed - is the only result besides being unoperational, the "rear door open" alert? Everything else work fine?

Yes, Everything worked fine.