Power Steering Hoses replacement

[geminiys]

My dad's 2005 XC70 has a Power Steering leaking pretty bad when driven. It was a chore to find the source of the leak. All connections of rubber lines to hard lines are dry on both Pressure and Return hoses. After further investigation I believe I identified that a Return line probably has a microscopic crack in aluminum section of the hose. Now I am trying to see if I can replace both hoses without any special tools and learn any special gotchas from folks that have done this job already. My concern is how a Power Steering Return Hose is attached to a Steering Column. It feels like it's a press-in type of connectivity, as I don't see any nuts to hold it. Can this be done on a driveway without any special tools? Any advise will be very appreciated here.
The Pressure Hose is connected with nuts on both side of the hose end (Steering Pump and Steering Column). Thus connectivity it's straight forward. It be a challenge to remove the entire line and put it back. Again, if I am wrong, please don't hesitate to shed some lights.

Thank you in advance.

[oragex]

You have this video, maybe ask the owner for details - he's also on this forum I think

Where does it leak? Is it near the lower right engine mount? I would also consider some J-B weld stuff. May just press something into the crack (engine off) to block the leak, then clean well with acetone around and apply the j-b weld around that section

[geminiys]

Thank you for the video. It's very helpful. I really appreciate it.

[enotslim]

I have what seems like the same issue on a 2004 XC70. Rapid power steering fluid leak from a pin hole in what I believe is the return line toward the right/passenger end of the power steering rack. Please see attached video. Is this actually the return line?

I'm curious about the temporary fix suggested above - JB Weld, aluminum brazing or some other repair applied to the leaking segment. Has anyone had something like this work even for a short while The entire line should probably be replaced but a temporary fix would be useful. I drive very few miles but this leak is too fast for even short trips.

Thanks.

2021-10-24 17.20.55.mp4

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PS fluid leak. Is this the return line?

[br0dy519]

That honestly looks like a coolant leak to me, looks like green Prestone coolant... CHF202 has a darker hue of green. Are you sure the leak source isn't from above? Might explain all of the oxidization on the line as well...

[enotslim]

Thanks. I didn't mention that the power steering failed, starting with whining and ending with impossible to turn, over the course of driving about 8 miles. This caused me to discover the leak shown. And the PS fluid reservoir was empty. I only see this leak when I add a bit of ps fluid. Otherwise I see bubbles. Not good for the PS fluid pump, I hear. Coolant may also be leaking, I suppose, but PS fluid definitely is leaking from somewhere.

[br0dy519]

Sorry, I did believe you have a PS leak. I just wonder if this is the actual source judging by the hue/viscosity of the fluid. Check your dust boots on your inner tie rods, are those soaking wet? When my rack failed those were flooded with fluid and there was a ton coming down directly from the rack onto the subframe. To answer your original question more directly: These cars , depending on chassis, had either push-in connections that were secured with a little plate and a torx bolt, or threaded flare-nut style connection.

Consider renting an engine support lift similar to the above video and prepare to completely disconnect the engine from all mounts. Dropping the subframe is the only (sane) way to do the job. It's WAY tight in there with everything connected as I experienced.

I have done this pressure hose job on a 2004 earlier this year, and I will never perform that job again. My indy was only going to charge about $300 in labour. Check the other current prwood thread on the subject, you can easily find yourself into a 16 hour rabbit hole. If you're insane like I was, take the risk Return hose looks much easier, since there's a lot more flexible rubber on it and less fishing with the outlet going to the rear of the engine at the PS reservoir.

EDIT: Also since you're losing so much fluid, just make sure to top up the reservoir with whatever you have for now.. Pentosin CHF202 is way too expensive to dump on the ground. When my rack earlier in the year I just made sure to put in a lot of ATF so I didn't run the pump dry and ruin that too. You can always flush with proper fluid later.

[enotslim]

Finally attempted repair of pinhole leak in aluminum PS fluid line. Removed surface corrosion using files and wire brush and covered the pinhole with a short length of 1/4 inch ID fuel line secured using ss hose clamps. See this video of repair compared to pre-repair above.

2021-11-06 15.44.42.mp4

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Repaired PS fluid leak.

The fuel line was split longitudinally and trimmed to prevent the facing cut surfaces from overlapping or abutting when tightening the clamps. Haven't driven or made any turns yet because I'm still waiting for Volvo power steering fluid to arrive - most of my container leaked - only a small amount was left to add a bit for this test video. I guess that means I will have flushed/replaced the PS fluid when it this over.

This would seem to be a temporary fix at best. Any predictions about whether this will hold long enough to drive to a repair shop for an estimate and then home to ponder next steps? Replacement, likely expensive commercially and a difficult dyi, project is one obvious solution. Aluminum brazing would seem to be an alternative but may not be much better than the current fix. Other areas will still be at risk for failure from the same or a different cause.

Any recommendations?

Thanks.

[enotslim]

Well, split fuel line didn't hold. So I cut the metal hydraulic line at the pinhole leak using a Dremel cut off wheel, slipped intact fuel line over both ends spanning the cut and secured with cheap hose clamps i had on hand. Still a very slow leak from both ends. I'm hoping better and/or more clamps will stop the leak. Any suggestions for clamps that might work? I know replacement of the hydraulic lines or the entire rack are the real long term solutions.

Thanks.

Hydraulic line cut at pinhole leak.

Clamped fuel line patch spanning cut and leak.

[volvolugnut]

Try crimp type clamps. Worm gear clamps do not tighten well in this small size. The worm section is too flat.
volvolugnut