Mechanical Tensioner needle will not move

[99TurboBrick]

Hello,

Trying to wrap up a timing belt job on a 99 S70 T5.

I feel that I am following the mechanical tensioner adjustment step to the letter, but it's just not going as expected.

Here's what I'm doing.

1. The new timing belt is on fine.
2. Tensioner bolt is on finger tight.
3. Hex hole is starting at 11 o'clock.
4. Turn 6mm hex counter clockwise.
5. Needle does not move.

The needle is supposed to move to the right but does not. I've tried tightening the bolt a bit, but that doesn't help.

This is a new Volvo INA tensioner.

What am I missing here? Is there a "default" setting to these things, aside from the 11 o'clock setting? Can you "wind up" the spring or something and not realize it?

Funny thing is, as I was experimenting with the old tensioner, before taking it off, I was running into the same problem. I figured I had just messed the old one up, because I was just moving the hex around somewhat haphazardly. Now I run into the same problem with the new one. No fun.

[RickHaleParker]

Sounds like the new tensioner is not mounted correctly and the tab on the old one was broken. The tabs on the back side of the tensioner fits into the block and holds part of the tensioner steady.

[99TurboBrick]

Thank you RickHaleParker.

I believe the tensioner is mounted correctly, as tabs 2 & 4 are outside of the rib on the block. I've attached a photo.

So, if I start at 11 o'clock, and turn CCW, nothing happens. The needle does not move.

However, I noticed that if I start at 11 and turn clockwise, the needle will start to move to the right once I get to 12 o'clock. I moved the hex further a bit more to 1 o'clock, but then stopped as it felt like I was putting a lot of stress on tab #2, like it was start to bend if I went further.

New tensioner, not adjusting.

[misha]

Somebody on this forum was talking about some problems with INA mechanical tensioners right from the box...few years ago.
Could be Lee or MIJ but i don't remember.

[rspi]

[RickHaleParker]

What timing belt did you use? I am wondering if it is not a little on the short side.

[99TurboBrick]

It's a genuine Volvo belt from IPD. It was part of the whole Volvo timing belt kit that they sell.

There's a new tensioner on the way from IPD. The original showed up with a bent 4th finger, so that gave me justification to ask for a new one. I had just bent it back into place with pliers, and I don't suspect that's why it's been giving me trouble, but I figured I'll just start over with a brand new one.

Interesting that Robert DIY moves it CW. I consulted w a Volvo mechanic on Justanswer.com, and he said he's done lot's of timing belt jobs and says he always goes CW. Later, he acknowledged that the official procedure is to go CCW first, then CW to the final setting.

[RickHaleParker]

Bent 4th finger means it may of be subjected to shock that damaged it. Definitely justification for a replacement of a mission critical component.

[abscate]

The belt procedure from 1999 on is different than -1998 due to variable valve timing, specifically the cam gears move relative to the cams based on engine conditions. When you set timing marks on a 1999- you pass the marks, then come back to them

[jimmy57]

Technically the 99-2001 5 cylinder and 6 cylinder turbo engines requires the engine be turned past the cam mark locations 90 crank degrees and then rotate crank backwards until crank mark and cam marks are aligned with their indicators. The spring in the exhaust CVVT unit will be relaxed since the cam was carried to a point CW and then the CVVT was turned back allowing the cam to stay ahead and the spring relaxes to its CCW stop and will not cause the spring to move your cam gear once belt is removed. Engines with intake only CVVT, 2002 on engines with exhaust CVVT, and the engines using the flat vane style CVVT do not require this step as there is no spring to move your gear and cause misalignment when the belt is slipped off the cm gear.