top rad hose keeps popping off

volvomadness · Post by **volvomadness** » 23 Jan 2018, 18:52

s60 put an aftermarket radiator in my daughters car. Problem is that the top neck is somewhat short and does not allow enough of an area to get a good bite.

The top hose popped off on the highway and I had to re-attach in the freezing cold about a month ago. After I got the car home I replaced the top hose and got a new clamp. It lasted for about a month and tonight it popped off again.

Is there a glue or something I could coat the inside of the hose to aid in keeping it on. I tighten it up again tonight but I just think its going to happen again because there is not a ridge on the neck and the neck is short.

Any Thoughts Madness

Post by **vtl** » 23 Jan 2018, 20:51

What I've heard some aftermarket radiators don't have metal sleeves inside "neck", they need to be transferred from old radiator.

I personally decided to bite the bullet and buy a new Volvo radiator while they were on sale for like $240.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Jan 2018, 05:19

Does it have a bump on the hose stanchion to give the clamp some bite?

Check engine mounts and radiator mounts to make sure it isn't being shaken excessively too,

pdr1966sc · Post by **pdr1966sc** » 28 Nov 2018, 18:01

I'm going to jump in here as I am having exactly the same problem.
I just got the car, did timing belt,PCV and had rad hose off only due to access to banjo bolt and intake bolt (long story...).
I've had clamps on really good, put a fresh clamp on tonight carefully seating, but it still just feels kind of springy.....

Peter

Post by **oragex** » 28 Nov 2018, 19:03

Which kind of worm clamp, rounded or flat one? Is the rad neck long enough to slide the hose a goid inch over it?

pdr1966sc · Post by **pdr1966sc** » 02 Dec 2018, 18:46

In my case, the clamp is a stainless worm clamp and I am able to get it very tight, evident by the rubber pushing up through the slits in the band.
Regardless, even with a steel ring made and placed inside the rad outlet to prevent the rad tube from deforming, it STILL came off way to easily.
I found mention of the clamp wanting to tip as you close it - and I saw this as well, which leads to the problem.
Tomorrow I am ordering an OEM upper rad hose, and may get a 2nd person to help hold the hose, and clamp in perfect position as we tighten it.
A very simple task being disproportionately difficult!

pdr1966sc · Post by **pdr1966sc** » 05 Dec 2018, 14:18

HELP!
I just spent 45 min waiting and watching, my new hose, installed really well staying up on the neck of the rad nicely.
Within a minute of the thermostat opening and the hot coolant warming up the area - the hose started to swell, and sure enough off it came.
It was really well clamped with a good quality clamp, well positioned, I made a steel inner ring inside the rad spout, and the hose and rad spout were degreased.
The clamp was a good quality stainless clamp - but NOT a smooth banded Euro Clamp.

My next tact is to create a pressure fitting so I can install and pressurize with a pump.

Suggestions welcome!!
Pete

Post by **June** » 05 Dec 2018, 15:41

pdr1966sc wrote: ↑05 Dec 2018, 14:18 HELP!
I just spent 45 min waiting and watching, my new hose, installed really well staying up on the neck of the rad nicely.
Within a minute of the thermostat opening and the hot coolant warming up the area - the hose started to swell, and sure enough off it came.
It was really well clamped with a good quality clamp, well positioned, I made a steel inner ring inside the rad spout, and the hose and rad spout were degreased.
The clamp was a good quality stainless clamp - but NOT a smooth banded Euro Clamp.

My next tact is to create a pressure fitting so I can install and pressurize with a pump.

Suggestions welcome!!
Pete

The hose swells? In one minute? What happens if the radiator cap is loos/off? Cap regulates pressure, but that much pressure that fast does not sound normal. With cap off there should be no pressure and hose should no swell and if it does not pop off I would consider doing a combustion gas test to rule that out. Also you want the clamp as close to the edge of the hose as possible. If the clamp is say a inch from the edge it won't seal as good. June

pdr1966sc · Post by **pdr1966sc** » 08 Dec 2018, 06:54

I determined that - even though it did not look broke, it broke so evenly and cleanly - I broke the kneck when I twisted free adn removed the upper rad hose

.
Have a new rad, old one ALMOST out finish today. PR