OOPS, looks like I posted this to the wrong forum (2008) so here it is again ...
I'm an owner of a '99 V70. A friend of mine is wanting me to help her look at a 2006 V70 N/A 2WD A/T with 240k kms. Any advice on what to look closely at? Weak points? future maintenance/repair issues likely? THANKS! Also any good Volvo repair shops near Markdale - between Owen Sound / Shelburne area in Ontario Canada?
Here's my V70 and its favorite passenger ..
Considering purchase 2006 V70
- oragex
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at 240K km (150K miles) it really depends if the actual owner has timely done all maintenance items and has used only the quality brands for parts. Don't buy without a pile of repair papers. This being Canada, the PCV must have been done well long ago - perhaps around 150km - so it may need attention again as of now. If it wasn't already done, don't buy as engine seals may be damaged. Youtube shows how to test.
Test the transmission fully warmed up for smooth shifting. Otherwise what should have been done until now are usually shock absorbers and spring seats, control arms, all suspension and steering wear components, engine mounts, timing belt, etc.
Test the transmission fully warmed up for smooth shifting. Otherwise what should have been done until now are usually shock absorbers and spring seats, control arms, all suspension and steering wear components, engine mounts, timing belt, etc.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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Shappy
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Thanks for the tips! My friend ended up buying the V70. It looks great and drives well. Ended up paying approx. us$2100. It has the 5 speed automatic with NO WAY to check the fluid level or condition! So the first thing she will do is get the fluid changed at a Volvo specialist. The dealer is replacing front pads and rotors and one stabilizer link.
Here's a picture:
Here's a picture:
- oragex
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This is where the transmission dipstick sits www.youtube.com/watch?v=czDDSwguYR8
If the fluid looks dark and smells a bit burnt, I would suggest not replacing it all at once. Just drain the pan - will remove 3.5L and should be fine for a while. They need to use only 3309 oil. Replacing the whole fluid for the first time at 240k is risky.
If the fluid looks dark and smells a bit burnt, I would suggest not replacing it all at once. Just drain the pan - will remove 3.5L and should be fine for a while. They need to use only 3309 oil. Replacing the whole fluid for the first time at 240k is risky.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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cn90
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- At 240K km = 150K miles, it is a good car.
- Look into timing belt records if the car is 2.5T.
- Lots of DIYs in forum, search for those if she wants to DIY.
- This car should go to 200K if properly maintained. The usual "killers" are transmission (may go out > 200K miles) or burned exhaust valves (around 190K-200K miles). But for the next 50K miles, she should be fine.
- Look into timing belt records if the car is 2.5T.
- Lots of DIYs in forum, search for those if she wants to DIY.
- This car should go to 200K if properly maintained. The usual "killers" are transmission (may go out > 200K miles) or burned exhaust valves (around 190K-200K miles). But for the next 50K miles, she should be fine.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
- 850 LPT
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That's a very pretty V70 in my favorite color Barents Blue. Looks like a good find, but as others have mentioned, it needs a good going through. Timing belt with water pump and tranny fluid change are the biggies.Shappy wrote: ↑11 Dec 2018, 17:06 Thanks for the tips! My friend ended up buying the V70. It looks great and drives well. Ended up paying approx. us$2100. It has the 5 speed automatic with NO WAY to check the fluid level or condition! So the first thing she will do is get the fluid changed at a Volvo specialist. The dealer is replacing front pads and rotors and one stabilizer link.
Here's a picture:
birgitt Volvo.JPG
98' S70, base, 5-speed manual, pewter/ tan, 145k miles
99' S70, base, 5-speed manual, nautic blue/ tan, 225k miles, currently inop
06' V70, auto, willow green/ charcoal, 147k miles
79' Ford Capri S, Euro Spec 2.8 V6, T9 5-speed manual, owned since 1986
58' Porsche Diesel Junior
13' Honda Odyssey
84' Mercedes 300 D, gold/ tan, 420k miles (retirement project
)
99' S70, base, 5-speed manual, nautic blue/ tan, 225k miles, currently inop
06' V70, auto, willow green/ charcoal, 147k miles
79' Ford Capri S, Euro Spec 2.8 V6, T9 5-speed manual, owned since 1986
58' Porsche Diesel Junior
13' Honda Odyssey
84' Mercedes 300 D, gold/ tan, 420k miles (retirement project
- abscate
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Barents Blue is just for superior people.....who fly through the air
Hmmmm...forum isn’t letting me attach photos , can’t see my library in IOS.
Hmmmm...forum isn’t letting me attach photos , can’t see my library in IOS.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Shappy
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I still could not find a dipstick. Apparently this trans is the 5-speed version. Would that still have the dipstick as shown in the YouTube video?oragex wrote: ↑11 Dec 2018, 21:15 This is where the transmission dipstick sits www.youtube.com/watch?v=czDDSwguYR8
If the fluid looks dark and smells a bit burnt, I would suggest not replacing it all at once. Just drain the pan - will remove 3.5L and should be fine for a while. They need to use only 3309 oil. Replacing the whole fluid for the first time at 240k is risky.
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Georgeandkira
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Keep looking and feeling about. You want to verify it's there. It's conceivable a prior owner could have stuck it into its hole without latching the spring catch.
This'd leave an open hole atop your gearbox.
Also, in addition to what was mentioned above, check that the cabin air filter is not solidly clogged. The windshield defroster won't work well if there's no air flow.
Check the air in the spare AND WHILE YOU'RE AT IT make sure the fuel pump controller (if relocated into the well) is secured to the spare tire's well. Mine was flopping about and that cannot be good. I used silicone rubber to glue it in place.
This'd leave an open hole atop your gearbox.
Also, in addition to what was mentioned above, check that the cabin air filter is not solidly clogged. The windshield defroster won't work well if there's no air flow.
Check the air in the spare AND WHILE YOU'RE AT IT make sure the fuel pump controller (if relocated into the well) is secured to the spare tire's well. Mine was flopping about and that cannot be good. I used silicone rubber to glue it in place.
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