2001 V70XC - Chasing fluid at the bottom of the turbo Topic is solved

[Rattnalle]

If that filter was ok for 15 years just doing it again in 8 or 10 should be quite enough of preventative maintenance.

Mine was quite easy to remove and it sure looked like the original so perhaps yours was replaced but not with a good one?

[xHeart]

Fuel Rail Line Disconnect Coupler Fitting:



Anyone switched to the new style? https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7754/11 ... er-fitting

[SuperHerman]

Turbo leak can be a number of items. Start by checking your PCV system for an external source causing the leak. Incorrect pressure will cause excess oil in the system. Related is the hose and hose fittings. Then check the turbo washers and gaskets. Finally the turbo itself. The turbo seal ring could have reached end of life causing excessive oil to pass. A simple test is to wiggle the turbo to check for incorrect play.

One of the pictures above looks like coolant not oil. This could be caused by the washers on the turbo coolant lines - either reused (if removed) or not torqued correctly.

[xHeart]

Remove the black backup latch by prying down in this view on RH side and then slip it left and pop it off. You have to do this first before you can slide a cuff tool in towards right to push the latching springs outward so the lines can be slid apart.

Disconnected effortlessly. Thank you.

The seal is oring inside, the springs just tension the pipe to stop it from sliding out.

The left hand pipe slides out of the bell shaped housing in the middle. Relieve fuel pressure first. Put a towel under it catch the dribble when you break the connection

Collected few oz of fluid from the schrader valve.

[xHeart]

Wow, so much space... most protective electrical wire sleeves are now replaced and tapped.
Now working on replacing rear exhaust camshaft seal as part of PCV project.

MVS_V70XC_2758.jpg (244.89 KiB) Viewed 1250 times

Found cracked bracket for Receiver Drier at condenser: Is there a fix? The pipe coming down from the drier is unhinged at bracket.

MVS_V70XC_2757.jpg (113.63 KiB) Viewed 1250 times

Happy Holidays!

[ndphotonl]

My 2 cents, check the oil trap/PCV system. I had almost the same issue when I replaced the turbo intake pipe with a silicone version. The turbo intake was oily. I cleaned it, cleaned/replaced the PCV system and checked again after quite some km's (I live in Europe ) and was still that clean after that maintenance.

This was the dirty intake

Volvo S80 2.4T Dirty Turbo Coldside by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr

And when I checked, I found this...

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr

Bottom line, your engine needs to breathe. If its unable to do so with the system which is designed for it, it will breathe through other holes etc, which is unwanted behaviour.

[xHeart]

Thank you Andy!
I could replace IPD's charged air silicon coupler at turbo with Volvo's if build up continues after the PCV service.
The surface below rear exhaust seal and around BCS is layered with oil soaked grime. I'll add it to my clean up and watchlist.

Replaced the sealing ring at rear exhaust camshaft. Found two bites on the surface of the yellowish ring at 8 o'clock and a tiny one at 4 o'clock. Is it normal?

MVS_V70XC_2760.jpg (235.83 KiB) Viewed 1212 times

[XC70Rider]

Wow, so much space... most protective electrical wire sleeves are now replaced and tapped.
Now working on replacing rear exhaust camshaft seal as part of PCV project.

Found cracked bracket for Receiver Drier at condenser: Is there a fix? The pipe coming down from the drier is unhinged at bracket.

Happy Holidays!

Hi xHeart. Where did you purchase the electrical wire sleeves? Mine are all cracked away so I've just taped them up.

I'll be removing the intake manifold tomorrow to touch up on the PCV cleaning done by the previous owner earlier this year. I'm getting the ECM-121B from the intake manifold gasket leaking. The gasket appears new so they must of not cleaned the intake manifold nor header before re-installing.

[abscate]

It's easy to foul something like a metal bracket when you install the intake manifold. Not too tight on those bolts, I think they are only 10 ft lbs or so. Don't strip the block.

The wire sleeves are called " loom" and can be purchased at your friendly local auto parts store , or FLAPS. It's split so you can easily slip the wires into it, then cut to fit.

[xHeart]

Comparing the new and old rear camshaft seals, both Volvo, old seal appeared fine but lost its outer treads -- flat. Came off gently with a pull at the screw.

It's easy to foul something like a metal bracket when you install the intake manifold. Not too tight on those bolts, I think they are only 10 ft lbs or so. Don't strip the block.

A timely reminder. Thank you!

I was able to separate fuel rail from the intake with relative ease. Brushed it clean of dust and let it sit overnight with few drops of WD40 using a syringe at injector fittings. The injector seal at the intake have lost roundness, plasticky and hardened at touch. Thinking about replacing seals. Any thoughts on how to?

Hi xHeart. Where did you purchase the electrical wire sleeves? Mine are all cracked away so I've just taped them up.

I'll be removing the intake manifold tomorrow to touch up on the PCV cleaning done by the previous owner earlier this year. I'm getting the ECM-121B from the intake manifold gasket leaking. The gasket appears new so they must of not cleaned the intake manifold nor header before re-installing.

For critical applications I use Volvo's parts. FWIW: an aftermarket manifold with Volvo seal is a better fit then other way around.

Harbor Freight lists electrical wire looms as protective wire wrap https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogse ... ctive+wire.

Home Depot and Menards also carry these looms, prefer HFT quality.

I used 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" looms. After few attempts, sleeving and tapping became fun.

My new tool: