1996 850 Wagon Service Light On Topic is solved

[PeteB]

It won't open even with pliers so I'm just pulling off the lower hose, lol.

[abscate]

The master of his/her craft stops before the damage gets worse.

Well done.

You can get either type of draincock on a Nissens apparently, I’ve had both types on my replacements, the long skinny threaded type and the bayonet, 1/2 turn and pull

Both seal with o rings, not with thread tension.

[erikv11]

This is why I only put in Volvo radiators, not willing to put up with the occasional fitment, draincock and longevity hassles.

I agree, good move Pete!

[PeteB]

Thanks men!

A few tips on putting it back together:
jack up the front in the center and with the air pump off to the side the radiator
goes in easily. I put in the main mounting bolts but only about 5 turns in leaving
it very loose so it can be pushed toward the engine. Installed the lower AC screws
leaving them loose then tilted it to make it easier to put in the upper screws. They
do not instantly line up so you have to jiggle things to make it happen.

Been worried about the transmission lines and watched the FCP video where Ben seems
to use needle nose pliers, expanding them to open up the clips. I spent at least 15 min
maybe half an hour with no luck at all, thinking there must be a tool for this. I couldn't
even get them all the way on the hoses. I've had a circlip tool from probably 40 years
ago and had seen it recently, found it at the bottom of the tool box and this IS the way
to do it. Got them on the first or second try. Installed the hoses and put screw type
hose clamps on top of them for security. A tool like this opens them very wide making
it easy to put them into position.

Hooked up the radiator hoses and tightened all the bolts, then went on to install the
fan/shroud - no go. The fan shroud top slides into a pair of slots at the top and tabs go
into the radiator at the bottom. Had to remove the main radiator mount bolts, support
it with wood block and jack, drop it about 1". Put shroud tabs in at the bottom, then
insert slots at the top, insert the plastic "shelf" that holds the relays and insert the 8mm
screws at the top that hold in the shroud. Now jack the radiator back up and install the
main mounting bolts tight.

Connect all the wiring and hoses and that's it.

[abscate]

That radiator hardware gets really nasty doesn’t it?

I put in m6 stainless steel ( Lowe’s brand) hex bolts and nuts to hold the sanwhich together,and also put SS lag screws into the fan shrouds, with hex heads. Easy to zip off with ratcheting wrench.

[PeteB]

Did your car come from Mass? Very heavy use of salt there.
I did not have any badly rusted bolts, just light rust on the lowers.

The car is running well - thanks again everyone!

[PeteB]

It ran well for 2 days, now cam position sensor is probably dead - it will not start.
I've read that the car will run with a bad CPS but not start, ours would not start
then after a few tries did. Does this happen if the error clears while cranking?
I notice also that the CEL doesn't clear when the CPS starts working again without
clearing manually with a scan tool.
Are the cam and crank position sensors used to try to detect a problem with the
timing belt?
I have cleaned the connector and now have a new/used part on order since that
didn't fix it.
I also plan to go over the grounds.

[PeteB]

Got a CPS very cheap on ebay, installed it way back in July and the car has been running fine.
Thanks again everyone!

[PeteB]

Changed the drivers side caliper today since it froze with 123,610 miles indicated
+63462 = 187,072 actual miles.

[PeteB]

The driver's side windshield wiper has become useless, this thread has several
solutions, grind down the arm, or the nubs but some say neither work:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77316&hilit=windshi ... m&start=40

What is the correct later arm that solves this problem?
Will a 1998 S70 or V70 arm fit and work well? Is the year range 1998 to 2000
for the newer arm?