1996 Volvo 850 will not start in cold

Post by **misha** » 10 Jan 2019, 09:51

Before condamning an ECT...carefully inspect the connector for corrosion and check if it is fully "home".

I had never seen an original ECT failed on it's own....it's usually a connector or it's wiring.
Mine is still original.

Post by **jblackburn** » 10 Jan 2019, 09:54

misha wrote: ↑10 Jan 2019, 09:51 Before condamning an ECT...carefully inspect the connector for corrosion and check if it is fully "home".

I had never seen an original ECT failed on it's own....it's usually a connector or it's wiring.
Mine is still original.

We've put 3 on the S70.

The resistance specs for temperature readings are somewhere around here on the site to confirm if it is/isn't bad.

Post by **abscate** » 10 Jan 2019, 09:58

Search P80 ECT resistance and Ye shall Find:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=79330&p=427389&hili ... ce#p427389

VdubTheran · Post by **VdubTheran** » 10 Jan 2019, 10:00

Where is the ect located and do you know how much one costs? i would think it would be one of the cheapest parts to replace.

Post by **jblackburn** » 10 Jan 2019, 10:03

VdubTheran wrote: ↑10 Jan 2019, 10:00 Where is the ect located and do you know how much one costs? i would think it would be one of the cheapest parts to replace.

Just under the thermostat housing. If you have a multimeter, check the specs abscate linked above on a cold engine in temps you'd normally have trouble starting in.

Looks like it's in the $50-60 range now.

Post by **abscate** » 10 Jan 2019, 10:16

Follow the upper radiator hose on the right side of car, left as you face the engine, towards the rear of the car.

When you reach a metal part,the ECT is bolted into that, under the hose.

You will need to catch or replace the coolant you lose when you unthread it, an don’t let that coolant run into the alternator

VdubTheran · Post by **VdubTheran** » 10 Jan 2019, 10:34

Ect 8.31 in 20k thats 16k right? The connections are loose and some corrosion. Its 28* outside temp, ect reads 30*f, on dash reads 29*f batt at 13.7v it tries to start thats with donor car hooked up to batt cranking at 10sec intervals with 1min plus in between. No start yet after about 10min ect reads 33*f, it seems to be working well enough. Still no start

Post by **misha** » 10 Jan 2019, 11:12

jblackburn wrote: ↑10 Jan 2019, 09:54 ...We've put 3 on the S70.

The resistance specs for temperature readings are somewhere around here on the site to confirm if it is/isn't bad.

Mine is still original...300k+ km,right within spec(just like new)...i'm checking it every 3rd year (just in case)when time comes for coolant replacement.

VdubTheran · Post by **VdubTheran** » 10 Jan 2019, 11:20

I got it started, it started really rough though. Im letting it warm up, then i will erase codes and check again. But i do think that the plugs, wires, cap and rotor need to be changed; i havent replaced them because when i bought the car 4 years ago they were new.

Post by **xHeart** » 10 Jan 2019, 11:27

In our '97 850 there is a IAT sensor #6A with barn door located where fresh air enters the air box. Unless it's a myth, to assist with colder condition cold-start the barn door closes and then a more friendly temp air is drawn from via the silver foil tube.

Item 20 in this diagram:

Penzzoil EURO 5W40 motor oil worked this morning too.

1996 Volvo 850 will not start in cold

Re: 1996 Volvo 850 will not start in cold