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Driver head light won't stay on / no rear differentail traction

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America). P2 platform.
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VFLXC90
Posts: 59
Joined: 21 April 2012
Year and Model: XC90 V8 2006
Location: Joliet IL.

Driver head light won't stay on / no rear differentail traction

Post by VFLXC90 »

I was able to do a temporary repair for $50 , now the light works. I was able to wire in a Napa Bk 7358921 4 pin 30 amp relay.
It seems the CEM module has a short in the power wire to the driver head light. Shorted CEM or a break in wire from the Cem to the light socket. The #2 pin on the plug is the power wire to the light. I unplugged both lights. Released the retainer on the male plug that is attached to the core support, pushed the male plug out of its retainer. I was able to see the numbers on the plug/ corresponding color coded wires. Once the plug was out of it's retainer. I took a test light to the wires a found 3 wires had power to them on both of the plugs (driver side plug / passenger side plug ) . The driver side would loose power to the #2 pin on the plug after about a minute of the light being on. The passenger side had power to #2 pin at all times. Based on above #2 pin is the power wire to the ballast. By wiring in the above relay I was able to get the driver light to work again. Seems a basic fog light kit will do the trick. The key is the relay above with corresponding numbers. The relay has numbers on it. I spliced into the #2 pin / wire feeding the passenger light with a scotty , brought the wire over to the relay attaching the wire to #86 on the relay. # 85 is the ground/ grounded the wire on the apron using a self tapping screw. #30 is the power wire I attached at the power feed wire into the fuse box driver side in the engine compartment. I put an eyelet on the wire , eyelet over the main feed wire that has a few threads exposed, took a metric nut and secured the wire on. #30 has a fuse built into it. I put a 15 amp fuse in the fuse holder. # 87 wire to the driver head light #2 pin wire to give power to the light. I cut the #2 wire and capped of the wire that is the feed wire from the CEM #87 wire to the other wire to the light (ballast) . By wiring in the relay I was able to pull the signal from the passenger light #86 as the signal to close the relay, closing the relay sends the power to the driver light. Since I'm only getting a signal from the passenger side #2 wire, I'm not overloading the #2 wire / over loading the CEM. Getting the power from #30 to #87 on the relay with an inline fuse protects the circuit. I still have a low beam message in the dash since the CEM is sensing a short in the circuit.
For now, I didn't have to go the dealership and spend $150 to have them scan the vehicle to tell me the CEM is bad and advise they can't guarantee that will fix the issue and the repairs exceeding a few thousand dollars.
I will send the CEM out for repairs once the weather is better but for now we need the XC to perform during the winter months.
Our present conditions are 4 + inches of snow, outside temp of 7 degrees and the spouse heading to work at 5 am on marginal roads.
Thanks again for the support.
vflxc90
08 XC 90 V-8 157,000 Spouse
06 XC 90 V-8 141,000 Daughter
06 XC 90 V-8 234,000 Son
03 V 70 2.5 Non Turbo

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