When do things start to go? Topic is solved

[erikv11]

With just a little maintenance, it's rare to have major problems before 200k. In other words, most of these cars get to 200k very easily. Get one with a good service record, keep up the maintenance yourself, drive it for a very long time.

+1 on avoid AWD, just isn't worth the trouble.

And OP about the CV axles on your 850, whatever you do, don't throw away the factory axles!! They are basically irreplaceable. Fix 'em.

[abscate]

The car is similar to a human being. Every part/organ has a life expectancy.

Search forum for lifespan of:
- Alternator
- Tstat
- PCV system
- Suspension system
- Timing Belt

etc. etc.

Best is buy a car with 80K, drive it to 150K and sell it. Best bang for the bucks...

Buy at 80, work stuff through to 150

Refurb suspension, PCV belt at 150

Drive to 300k

[cn90]

Haha,

Been there done that.
- Bought the 1998 S70 GLT with 145K in Oct. 2012 for $2300.
- Spent another $2500 cash (suspension, shocks, leaking oil cooler lines, radiator, heater core, timing belt, water pump etc. etc.).
- Blew an exhaust valve at 185K.
- Trans lost reverse at 190K (March 2018)...it was the final straw, I traded it at used car dealer for $300, and...
- Bought a 2004 V70 with 100K for $4300 from the same dealer. Great car.


Looking back, it was a dumb idea to buy the 1998 S70 at 145K b/c I had to put in $2500/time/effort.

In retrospect, it is better to spend $4000-$5000 to buy a "low-mileage" car with 80K-100K. Way less work and you enjoy it much more.
So, no, I will not buy another car with 150K.

As mentioned above, the best bang for the bucks is car with 80K-100K, drive to 150K and sell it lol...

Some people think they save money by buying a "$2000 car with 150K", well, it is not that simple...

[Rattnalle]

Thinking milage is that important is making things easy for yourselves. Things go just as much just by being old. A car that had been driven will at least have a decent chance of having been maintained by someone who actually used it.

Cars this old individual examples have to be judged individually.

[RickHaleParker]

Some people think they save money by buying a "$2000 car with 150K", well, it is not that simple...

Depends on the buyer's skill level. For a skilled DIYer it can pay off well. Part of that skill set is the pre-purchase inspection.

Somebody in another thread hit the nail on the head. Car are not like owning a Appliance, where you pay once and they work for years without maintenance and repairs. Yet there appears to be many people that expect a car to be like an Appliance. Good luck in finding that in any make/model/type of transportation.

[cn90]

Well,

I consider myself skilled (I write quite a few DIYs in this forum).

No, I will not buy a "$2000 car with 150K" again. It was a waste if money/time/effort.

OTOH, the forum benefits from all the problems I dealt with and the subsequent DIYs.

Don't get me wrong, people with a small budget should buy the "$2000" car and deal with it.

People with $5000 budget should not buy "$2500 car" with 150K then put in another $2500, thinking it is a great idea. In the event of an accident, all you get is $2500 from the insurance company.

With $5000 budget, best is to buy a low-mileage such as 80K-100K car and enjoy it.

[RickHaleParker]

This is what I mean.

See the 2003 S40 in my signature line? I found it on Craigslist, 2003 S40 110,000 miles, $500.00 won't start don't know whats wrong. The seller had it posted for six weeks, lots of lookers but nobody would touch it.

I listen to the engine crank over could hear weak hits. Gave him the $500 and had it towed home for $140. Sure enough the little tab on the timing belt tensioner retainer was broken, the tensioner slipped, belt loosen, timing jumped just enough to create a no start but not a interference condition.

Purchase price $500.00, Tow $140.00, Timing belt kit $152.00, Grill $45.00, Brake pads $55.00. Total $887.00.
Book price at time of Purchase price, $3500.00.

My father, my brothers and I have been doing this for 50+ years. You just got to be able to pick out the good stuff from what nobody will touch.

[cn90]

Again, that is very rare.

My comments above are meant for the average person shopping at a reputable used car dealer.

I hate buying from private party, simply bc it takes so much time/effort to schedule an appt.

I am lucky, near my house is an excellent used car dealer who only stocks low mileage BMW and Volvo cars, usually 1- or 2-owner with clean Carfax. I am very happy using this used car dealer. They are great honest people...

[Rattnalle]

I've bought several 150k+ cars and the issues I've had with them so far apart from regular wear items have had much more to do with age than milage. Apart from taxis and other extreme cases it's usually not primarily milage that kills modern cars. It's general wear and that can be very different for the same milage depending on owner and use.

A 15 year old car that has barely been driven is something I'd be quite weary of. I'd rather get a newer car with some more miles on personally. That said I'd never buy a car that needed "saving". I'd make sure it was in decent shape, perhaps in need a few wear items.

[abscate]

That skill set, the ability to see a decent car with good bones, as opposed to the thrashed out POS, is the key to a good value. I don't think general rules apply too well.

I paid clean retail for My P2 from Jim and that will be the cheapest car I've ever owned. It's going to 300k.