Rear suspension height question...

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 04 Feb 2019, 21:02

2001 V70 2.4T

I just replaced all the control arm bushings in the rear end. When I was putting it back together, I read in the manual that before you torque the bolts, you have to put the suspension in the “normal” position. It said it was 394 mm from the wheel arch top to the center of the hub.

Well, immediately after reading that, I brain farted.

I set mine to 384 mm, then torqued. Does anyone know the implications of this?

I only realized this today when I was looking up a different spec.

Also, I measured again today with wheels on the ground, and it was about 400 or 405 mm. What to make of that also??

Post by **oragex** » 05 Feb 2019, 02:27

It will take an expert for a detailed answer, but I dont think 1cm would cause more wear on the bushings. 1cm height would mean maybe a few degrees of rotation in the rubber, I think these could take quite more than that. The real question would rather be the brand used for these parts, inexpensive ones may last quite a short time.

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 05 Feb 2019, 08:46

Thank you.

They are all genuine Volvo. And pressing them in nearly frustrated me into a blind rage. But that’s another story.

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 05 Feb 2019, 10:46

One follow up question...

What should the measurements be when you have tires and wheels on the ground? I thought I understood it should be 394 mm, or 384 in my case since I screwed up. But that’s not what I got.

Also, is it possible that that would tighten up the rear end for possibly better, or worse, handling or ride quality?

And a side note to anyone reading this... If it is possible to influence handling or ride quality by doing this, I would never, EVER recommend anyone do it if it comes at the expense of longevity of those bushings. I have a brand new respect for those bushings and the rubber they are made from.

I bought the rear control arm bushing kit from FCP. I got the rear subframe out, which was easy, and went to work removing bushings. It was difficult, and messy. I took the subframe and hub carriers to 3 machine shops, and I think 5 mechanic shops. Not a single one would touch it. So I had to do it. The process was deceptively simple. Just get a nut and bolt of suitable length, and a receiver cup of the right diameter, and a socket or something else of suitable diameter to push with. Sounds easy. And in some ways I guess it is, but it took me about a thousand trips to the hardware store, and a ton of time on the bench grinder trying to turn down some washers to fit the inside diameter of the bushings because I had to have a spacer between the bolt and the inside of the bushing to hold it straight. It was endlessly frustrating to me personally.

So, just for the sake of curiosity and greater understanding of the job I just did, does anyone have enough experience to have an opinion on weather or not it’s possible to do this intentionally as a way to adjust or tune or otherwise marginally influence ride and handling? I wouldn’t have done it on purpose, but might I have accidentally given myself a little bonus?

Zolll · Post by **Zolll** » 29 Sep 2020, 14:34

Hi, sorry for bringing this topic back up but I can’t find any help anywhere else. I also replaced the bushings in the rear upper and lower control arms with polys. The rear end is now standing about 2” taller than before. Bolts were torques with weight of vehicle on the ground and now I have a dangerously positive camber on the rear wheels that makes the car dangerous to drive. What else could’ve I screwed up?? Spring seats maybe?

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 29 Sep 2020, 20:30

I’m not sure what kind of car you have but if it’s a P2 then it takes a 4 wheel alignment and that should take care of your positive camber if all is assembled correctly. In a totally different scenario I got the left and right control arm backwards on my F150 and had a ton of positive camber.

As far as the 2” difference in ride height, I’m not sure. Are you sure you have the springs seated correctly? You need a special tool for that

Zolll · Post by **Zolll** » 30 Sep 2020, 05:28

It’s a XC70... 4 wheel alignment was done 3 times while trying to get toe just right and get the bushings torqued with weight on its wheels. The alignment on a newly calibrated machine. You mentioned a special tool for spring seats.. can you elaborate?