Yeah itll be a few bucks and 5 minutes, not a bad idea. I'm against throwing parts at a car to fix a problem but I think this is a minor one.erikv11 wrote: ↑06 Feb 2019, 00:14 I agree that the sequence of events doesn't argue strongly for a failed ignition switch, however ignition switch failure is super common on 850s, basically every one of them fails by about 200k (YMMV), and causes many bizarre and seemingly illogical electrical problems. Grab one from the junkyard just so you can rule it out.
Spark Plug Wires have never been changed out with 140k miles, so Ill see if that does it. Ill also inspect the spark plugs.dj_v70 wrote: ↑05 Feb 2019, 19:40 “But the number one killer of ignition coils is voltage overload caused by bad spark plugs or plug wires.
If a spark plug or plug wire is open or has excessive resistance, the ignition coil's output voltage can rise to the point where it burns through the coil's internal insulation causing a short. The insulation in many coils can be damaged if output exceeds 35,000 volts. Once this happens, the coil's output voltage may drop causing ignition misfire when the engine is under load, or the coil may cease to put out any voltage preventing the engine from starting or running.”
https://www.aa1car.com/library/ignition_coils.htm
If positive terminal of coil has 12v when key is in position 2 and has 0v when key is removed, coil issue has nothing to do with ignition switch. I doubt ECU fried coil.
But I'm not sure if spark plug wires, spark plugs, coil, ignition switch, or any of these parts could cause a Check Engine Light to appear when the car is off... this is the main concern I have. I feel like this signifies a basic electrical problem.
The AAA guy towed my car slightly outside of the parking lines, and the apartment towing company just towed it away. So the repairs have been delayed a bit, and I'm working with AAA to take care of the fine now. Thank you guys for the feedback.
