Oil Pump Leak? Topic is solved

[abscate]

Look for the notch in the splines , closest to the block

I can see them in your picture, but they are subtle

[XC70Rider]

Look for the notch in the splines , closest to the block

I can see them in your picture, but they are subtle

Those notches on the rear side of the gear are so hard to view I made a smooth groove on top side of the splines. Had to remove the crankshaft gear to replace the oil pump seals so might as well put it to use.

[XC70Rider]

I would say yes. The factory has both heat shield and they are attached together with a plastic clamp to prevent the, from chafing on the axle shaft , too

I would replace the drug store clamps with ABA or Volvo ones with closed serrations, or, even better, Oetiker clamps

I added exhaust wrap with SS ties to the oil cooler hoses. The worm clamps are Norma brand made in Europe. They are fine tooth clamps that won't eat the hoses. No local auto store stocks them so I ordered them online.

[XC70Rider]

I mounted the scrubbed sump on Sunday.



As Xheart noted in his earlier thread the trick is to first get the front side laying on the fuel line. Proceed with getting the trans side mated then throw on 4 corner bolts with low torque. No extra hand nor jack is needed.

[abscate]

I would say yes. The factory has both heat shield and they are attached together with a plastic clamp to prevent the, from chafing on the axle shaft , too

I would replace the drug store clamps with ABA or Volvo ones with closed serrations, or, even better, Oetiker clamps

I added exhaust wrap with SS ties to the oil cooler hoses. The worm clamps are Norma brand made in Europe. They are fine tooth clamps that won't eat the hoses. No local auto store stocks them so I ordered them online.

Norma makes the Volvo branded hose clamps, so those will be excellent.

( in a rare moment of restraint, I will refrain from pointing out that Norma had an odd partnership with Jean Paul to create the Monroe brand)

[XC70Rider]

It wasn't the Oil Pump that was causing the oil leak. After removing the crankshaft gear there was no oil on the seal. I had the oil pump gasket kit so I still removed the oil pump and threw on a new gasket, O-ring, and seal onto the oil pump.

Turns out the Oil Sump was the culprit. As mentioned in previous posts I found the PO had the oil cooler removed. No doubt the oil sump was also dropped because all the seals appeared new. The mechanic who reinstalled the sump didn't give the front right corner bolts enough torque. The corner bolt can be reached with a 1/4" wobble ratchet but the one to it's left needs to be accessed from the right wheel well. Not giving these bolts enough torque the anaerobic sealant never cured.



Closer View



Here is a view from the wheel well. The crud in the center of the photo is where the front right section of the oil sump mates to the block.



That can only be seen when the right front wheel shield is removed.

[XC70Rider]

Finally got started on my restoration project yesterday.

1. Timing belt, tensioner, idler, serpentine belt
2. Water pump, Thermostat, RAD hoses, coolant flush
3. Oil pump gasket, ring, & seal
4. Drop Oil Sump

Since it warmed up 60F I already drained the coolant, flushed with garden hose then refilled & drained with distilled water twice.

With the oil drained is it safe to rotate the engine to get the timing marks aligned? I've hand turned other empty engines but not sure if it safe to do so on the 2.5T?

I installed everything listed minus the RAD hoses. The hoses and their clamps are in fine condition so I'll leave that until the next coolant flush.

This was first time doing a Volvo Timing belt but still got TDC on first try!

With all the repairs done I threw in cheap oil and distilled water to check for leaks. She ran nice and smooth with no codes appearing. The only flaw is the oil cooler hose is leaking water. That's due to mounting the oil cooler onto the sump before sliding the hoses onto the oil cooler. As suspected the right hose didn't mount far enough onto the oil cooler. I'll get that fixed then throw in distilled water and check for leaks again. After that repair I'll drain the water then finally add in the Volvo Coolant.

All the crud is cleaned up so I'll keep an eye for oil or coolant leaks then report back.

[XC70Rider]

While fixing the oil sump leak I created another leak. The front crankshaft seal was slowly leaking. The UV dye found the slow leak.



Here's a pic using the UV flashlight.

[XC70Rider]

Here's the seal after removing the oil pump. As you can see the garter spring is torn off the seal. I obviously didn't use enough caution when installing the oil pump over the rod.



The mechanics at the Indie Shop gave me hints and let me borrow their Volvo Sleeve tool 9995747. I coated the sleeve, seal, and where it mates on the cranshaft rod with oil. I then slowly installed the oil pump onto the crankshaft rod.



I used a 1.5" PCV pipe and rubber mallet to firmly seat the new seal. I placed the old seal between the pipe and new seal for cushion.



With UV dye added to the new motor oil I'll check for leaks in a few hundred miles again.