[S80 2.4 2002 Bi-Fuel] Few CCM errors and AC problem Topic is solved

[zubel]

I have a problem with CCM in my dad's Volvo S80.

Somehow, around September, the AC (or just only a fan) turned on itself in the parking lot. When we returned to the car after an hour, the fan continued to go at maximum speed - even though that no one was in the car, and the key was removed. It's probably Engine Cooling Fan - it can also work after turning off the car to cool the engine. Ok. But as a result, it completely discharged the car battery.

From this moment the air conditioning once blows cold, one warm air. Blowing temperature can change by itself while driving - without touching any button, without changing the temperature value.
In addition, windows started to evaporate. Replacing the cabin filter did not help.

I have 3 errors in system:
1) CCM-0021 Air quality sensor interal fault

2) CCM-001B Lower the switch. Identification is missing

3) CCM-001C Lower switch. Faulty ID


The first one - ok, I understand. AQS probably is full of dirt or just didn't work properly. It happened.
But the other two? Lower switch. But which one?! Each button properly react for switch on and switch off.
Have any of you encountered such a problem and SOLVED IT? Any idea?

[RickHaleParker]

CCM-001B & CCM-001C refers to one of the switches on the bottom of the climate control panel.

1. Switch replaced with a switch with incorrect identity
2. Defective switch
3. Missing switch.
3. Two or more switches with the same ID.
5. Fault in the Car Configuration File

CCM_Lower_switches.gif (12.49 KiB) Viewed 4341 times

[SuperHerman]

Based on RickHaleParker's post and your details - it appears that items 2 and 5 would be the issue.

From experience on my 2001 XC70, which I assume is similar, the actual module can go bad or the software can get corrupted (item 5). Your options are to see if the dealer can reload the software on the module to correct the problem on your unit, buy a new unit and have it loaded with correct software -- both assume the module is bad.

For 2 - I think you should be able to test the switches with a VOM and take them apart to clean them. Since two switches are at play, I don't think your problem is with the switches. It is not difficult to do - just make sure you disconnect your battery or you will most likely trigger your airbag light. Just disconnect it and not worry about shorting the charger port or triggering the airbag light - been there done that.

Were it me I would source a like for like module with switches included off a used car. Find one with all your switches in place and only those, that way the module should have all the software as I am unsure how specific the actual software loading is. This approach will give you the module and the switches at the cheapest price. Match up part number, year, model and switches on the unit. Start with eBay to see what is available and get an idea on costs. Then move to a local wrecker and Craigslist.

[RickHaleParker]

For 2 - I think you should be able to test the switches with a VOM and take them apart to clean them.

Switch with IDs indicates they are network switches which send out commands rather then a physical electrical switch. Still they might be a hybrid, physical electrical switches where the CCM interprets them according to their ID.

[SuperHerman]

RickHaleParker I am not arguing with you, just thinking through what you are saying, based on my limited experience.

In the diagram you posted, most of the switches are physical switches except the three potentiometer dial knobs (or related type) and then the zone buttons for the HVAC controls. These should also be physical switches at some point. Zone on or zone off.

Problem per OP appears to be his blend doors are mixed up - hence he is getting hot/cold out of the HVAC. So - let's ignore all the switches but the temperature controls and HVAC zone buttons because they don't really come into play.

Next step is to figure out if the hot/cold error is specific to one side - that is does one side ALWAYS behave and the other side does as it pleases. In the alternative do both sides do as they please.

With this information it would be easier to move forward. Regardless the actual buttons on the HVAC zone control are physical - doubtful they are intermittent, but it is possible. The temperature dial knobs could be failing - doubtful both sides. Plus massive zonal temperature change is unlikely - maybe a creep in temperature.

Having taken one apart, on the XC70, the CCM has a good deal of electronics behind the physical switches. This is controlled with software.

This all leads me back to the CCM being the culprit. Whether the dead battery, possible jump and/or voltage spike caused it to fail or the software just became corrupted, the signs point to this being the issue. If it is bad/corrupted then it cannot properly read the information it is being provided.

The other possibility is the blend doors/motors are acting up, but why would they behave and then not behave? A signal is needed to tell them to change. There is a thermistor which does get dirty and sometimes fails. Not sure if this could be the culprit, but it is easy to search up on. It would be located, in the picture, on the right side above the temp control dial behind the grate opening.

OP looks to be from Poland, so I assume used parts are not that easy to find. May be worth going to the dealer and have them try a software reload of the CCM. If that fails I used unit, like for like off Ebay may be wisest move.

OP - can you provide any more details of what was done to the S80 after the battery was found discharged? Also, some have had luck solving the fan issue by changing a temperature sensor.

[zubel]

Next step is to figure out if the hot/cold error is specific to one side - that is does one side ALWAYS behave and the other side does as it pleases. In the alternative do both sides do as they please.

The second one I guess. When I was driving it, the temperature was set to 20 degrees, all the rest on the 'auto' mode (* there was some 10 degrees C outside).
At one point, all the air grates began to hit really, really cold air - I immediately increased the temperature to 24 or 26 degrees C, but it did not help. It blew like that for a minute, maybe a little longer, and then to start heating - a lot more than 24 degrees C, also for a while. Suddenly inside the car got so warm that I need to opened all the windows (<10 C outside, on the highway).
I wanted to pull over to the side of the road and then everything went away.

OP looks to be from Poland, so I assume used parts are not that easy to find. May be worth going to the dealer and have them try a software reload of the CCM. If that fails I used unit, like for like off Ebay may be wisest move.

Without exaggeration, it's still Europe, not Africa or Middle East I have bigger problems with finding parts for my S40 (US version) than used parts for this S80's european version. I ordered some (new and used) parts couple times directly from Sweden or Germany, so it's not a problem.
(but also in Poland there is no problem with find some used parts)

OP - can you provide any more details of what was done to the S80 after the battery was found discharged? Also, some have had luck solving the fan issue by changing a temperature sensor.

And this was weird part - I don't know from where the fan was taking a power, but car didn't want to start engine and nothing worked (light inside, radio, etc) and the fan still worked. (I mean, it's strange that the fan has priority over the engine in energy consumption from car battery)
We jump-start a car battery using cable from my car to reach to home on own four wheels, not on the car haulers. On the same day, the car battery was replaced with a new one.

But since then the windows have started to evaporating - no matter the weather. I've already change a cabin filter to new one, but didn't help.

With the mechanic we came to the conclusion that maybe - MAYBE - the internal circuit button has blocked itself and that is why all windows evaporating.

Temperature sensor. Yes, I let know my mechanic, that this also should be cleared or replaced for a new one. Well see.

[SuperHerman]

Here in the USA, S80 parts of your era are cheap and easy to find. I would guess one could find the part for $20 used. At that price going to the dealer for a $200 software reload attempt makes no sense.

That said, software reload may be the best first option, unless you can find a working used part first. Question is whether the CCM is the issue.

I also think you may have a bad sensor which told the car to cool the engine - as this happened first. After this the jumping and battery replacement may have caused issues. More common than people think. Although I suppose one could check the main ground straps to make sure they are in good condition.

[zubel]

The entire front control panel was dismantled and cleaned; each button has been cleared (there was a lot dust). All buttons were read correctly by the computer. The outside temperature sensor has been replaced with a new one - the old one was completely full of dirt and sand and whatever else. The internal temperature sensor has been thoroughly cleaned (also covered with dust).
All errors have been erased - and so far, since last Friday, everything works as it should. There are no more temperature jumps, AC and heating work as it should.
Thanks for your help!

[oragex]

Appreciate the feedback. Keep in touch with any other issues. Also may refer to european forums for any bi-fuel issues/manual transmission , such as https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19

Foru future information, you can also replace the CCM unit with a used one from corresponding year with similar STC or DSTC buttons, without programming.