Transmission removal and replace 92 960

sisdavid · Post by **sisdavid** » 23 Nov 2007, 18:46

I am removing and installing a different transmission on a 92 Volvo 960. Any help would be greatly appreciated. How do I test the replacement transmission, How do I do it tools and sizes of wrenches. sequence that sort of thing. What type of fluid should I use, and How hard is it to drain the transmission and re fill it? I think I am missing a dip stick.

DanR · Post by **DanR** » 23 Nov 2007, 20:15

What is the problem that is making you do the swap? These units are usually bullet proof, it is the pnp switch or a electric valve that fails requiring replacement. My unit was killed by a bad radiator.

I did this once, about 4 years ago. The job was not bad to do, as to how to test the replacement trans, you can't, just get one with a warranty, also check the fluid in it for color, it should be as bright red as possible, you should also know how many miles are on it before buying it.

Just use the dip stick from the old trans.

You will have to remove the trans cooling lines, I found mine to be impossibly difficult to loosen at the trans, so I loosened them from the radiator.

You will have to remove the rear cross member, place a hydraulic jack with some kind of wooden holder to keep the tail of the trans up, but don't let it rest on the trans oil pan, just the edges of it, otherwise it will get crushed from the weight. Undo, drive shaft, cooler lines, the linkage to the gear selector, the electrical plugs on the driverside. Also the torque convertor bolts, access them from the under the exhaust manifold, there is a small slot to undo the torx bolts. The the hardest bolts to get are the one at the upper area of the bell housing, this is where the hydraulic jack comes in handy, lower the trans being careful that the rear of the cylinder head does not hit the firewall. Lowering gives access to the top bell housing bolts, I loosened those from under the car.

I would also have a filter kit, an input shaft seal, and a new crank seal for the engine. Perfect time to replace them. The seal at the bottom of the engine oil dip stick tube might be replaced too, it is held down by a bell housing bolt.

For the initial fill I would just top off with regular, cheap trans fluid. Drive it for little while to make sure it is a sound unit, then I would flush it again with some cheap regular fluid. After a few months, then flush it again with Mobil 1 full synthetic.

I don't remember any bolt sizes, but you will need a full compliment tools.
Degrease the new unit before installing too. I paid about 250.00 dollars for a used unit with a 30 day warranty with just over 60,000 miles.

USE CARE: On the torque convertor torx bolts, use a high quality tool, not one from cheap kit that has all of those other misc. types of heads. This I know from experience, stripped one and had to use an extractor to get it out, it was not fun, lots of swearing, tiring using a drill to get a hardened bolt out while laying on cold concrete in the winter.

Good luck

DanR '94 964 333,000 miles (99,000 on the new engine) About 60,000 on the used transmission.

tripleb · Post by **tripleb** » 23 Nov 2007, 23:23

USE CARE: On the torque convertor torx bolts, use a high quality tool, not one from cheap kit that has all of those other misc. types of heads. This I know from experience, stripped one and had to use an extractor to get it out, it was not fun, lots of swearing, tiring using a drill to get a hardened bolt out while laying on cold concrete in the winter.

Great advice, just look at the post for the stripped thermostat housing bolt. And that is easy to get too! These are not! Be very careful!

What is the problem with the trans? Like Dan said, they are good transmissions.

These also had problems with the solenoids, which are fairly easy to replace.

B

sisdavid · Post by **sisdavid** » 24 Nov 2007, 07:21

on the interstate it started slipping engine reving, but not going anyware. Then pulled to side of road and it would not go. What are the symptoms of a bad sylanoid. What is a silanoid and what does it do? Funny I have replaced one once, but never knew what it did. How do they act when they need a pnp or electric valve?

sisdavid · Post by **sisdavid** » 24 Nov 2007, 08:40

What type of transmission fluid should I use in my 1992 960?

tripleb · Post by **tripleb** » 24 Nov 2007, 09:20

The solenoids control the shifting, torque converter lock-up, and the control pressure inside the transmission.

I believe you can use Dextron 2 or 3 for that transmission. Check your owners manual to be sure.

B

sisdavid · Post by **sisdavid** » 26 Nov 2007, 07:46

how do I test my silinoid, and where is it located? Will having too much transmission also cause it not to run?

danr960 · Post by **danr960** » 26 Nov 2007, 09:42

I believe there is a diagnostic program that can be run from under the hood. You will have to do some research for the actual steps to initiate it, but it is run thru the black box on the driver side fender, there are two box, one marked A and the other B, it also has a little wire with a connector on it, you can run a default program that activates the solenoids with the engine off, one at a time, you will need someone to be under the car to listen for the telltale click.

Not sure but it is run in box A and the wire in placed in hole #1.

DanR

sisdavid · Post by **sisdavid** » 26 Nov 2007, 15:53

That procedure for checking the transmission is very interesting. I wonder where I can find some more about this procedure from.

Post by **billofdurham** » 28 Nov 2007, 12:45

Read this thread which gives the location of the diagnostic box and how to use it. It is the same procedure for the 240, 740, 940 and 960.

For the auto transmission use test socket #1.

The fault codes are here:

Bill.