All Power Cut When Turning Ignition

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 18 Feb 2019, 12:49

Hello,
Had a power issue. Full disclosure and two background facts. I only drive on the weekends and the car has a slow battery drain (which I've read-up on and will tackle when a get garage time so don't want to focus on this here), so I unplug the battery lead after use. Also, the shift lock override switch needs to be replaced as I have to use the button shift into drive.

I drove the car during last weekend with no problems, parked it and disconnected the lead. Four days later I reconnected the lead, cycled through the keyfob lock/unlock so the alarm system wouldn't prevent me from starting it, had interior lights, chimes, etc. Then I turned the ignition and all went dark/dead/absolutely nothing. I disconnected/reconnected the battery lead again and went through the same process with the same result so I left it until this last weekend. So went through the same process but before turning the ignition, I got the shifter to N and then the car started with no loss of power, etc. BTW, the batter was at 12.1 V ( a bit low but still enough to start).

Ideas of what might be involved her other than the shift lock switch are appreciated.
Thanks

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 18 Feb 2019, 12:59

All power is cut when starter is activated (Key in POSIII). Starter was not getting power. I have a manual, so I'm not sure what all starting safety systems are present on the autos, but that would be the first thing I would check. I think the shift lock would be a good place to start. I believe the anti-theft system will allow cranking but no start, as it just cuts power to the coil.

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 18 Feb 2019, 13:30

Tnx for the response. Occasionally when I've run through this weekend ritual of connecting the battery lead, using the keyfob, etc. to then start the car, I forget to lock\unlock the door before entering and the alarm kicks on (no sound but flashing blinkers) until I open the door, get out, and lock\unlock from outside of the car. Then no problem.

This last time everything just went absolutely dead. I'm just not sure if there is another new component that has malfunctioned.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Feb 2019, 14:39

12.1 bolts on a battery is dead. You need to charge it.

You need to get the negative clamp tight each time you attach or it will spark

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 18 Feb 2019, 14:49

I know that is low (due to the slow draw and cold weather and I need to address the battery) but as I mentioned, it started right up after all of the above I explained so it is not the issue here. Tnx

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 03 Mar 2019, 10:07

I'd like to revisit this post after having the battery checked as my volt meter was off (12.64 V and 607 our of 650 crachking power).

Symptoms are; mostly when I first start the car, the wipers will start very slowly, especially when I also put the turn signal on or headlights, there is a drain on the system. After driving a bit the wipers, headlights, turn signal, etc. will become normal.

However, more recently I can drive for 20 minutes (no lights, radio, etc.) but if I activate the turn signal and or head lights, there is an immediate micro-drain/cut (until I turn off the activated device), and the service light is triggered as if the system thinks it was just just cold started when the service light stays on for first 30 secs or so and goes off as is supposed to happen.

Would these symptoms point to the bad alternator, a possible short somewhere, or a bad switch of some sort? And there was the "start to full cut out" as I originally described, but that did not occur yesterday during the eight start/drive/park/re-start episodes while running errands.
Tnx in advance.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 03 Mar 2019, 20:29

Sounds like it could be a dying battery. Would also check your grounds and B+ cable to starter and cable to main fuse box. Most autoparts stores will test alternator and battery for free.

Post by **abscate** » 03 Mar 2019, 22:49

It’s normal for power to all accessories and lights to be cut when you turn to position III

I don’t understand the exact conditions well enough to know if you have a problem beyond this.

It sounds like a Dead battery, simply put.

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Mar 2019, 07:09

Assuming the battery is good (a big assumption here), random loss of all power is common when the electrical portion of the ignition switch is failing. They all fail on P80 cars it just a question of when, time may have come on yours. Do you know if it has ever been replaced?

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 04 Mar 2019, 07:35

Tnx for the replies all!
Just to be clear, it is NOT the battery. I mentioned that I had it tested (at walmart b/c I thought I'd have to replace it w/ another of their Maxx batteries), 12.64 V and 607 our of 650 crachking power. I did not know auto parts stores will test the alternator. Thanks for that whatamidoing. Can you tell me what I'd be looking for when i check to cables? I'd imagine loose connections or visible damage. Erikv11, I guess I'll search this forum about ignition switches going bad but don't really know much about that.