What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[850 LPT]

Steelies are the bomb over here....just wait, they will be big there too...

Those aren't OE. OE steel rims are black. So you've pimped your ride with aftermarket parts.

Exactly right!
Plus, they have been laying around in my shed for years before I gave them to Steve.

Nice to see they are still in service my friend!

Dirk

[Cookeh]

I'd definitely recommend replacing wires first. Make sure you use Bougicord brand wires, they are highly recommended around here.

I should say that the car was not misfiring before changing the plugs. Would this change my approach at all? Could be a duff plug I suppose.

Check that all the wires are seated properly on the plugs and make sure 2 wires didn't get switched. It's possible the wires were so worn that one broke when you pulled it off the old plug.

Okay dokay. Checked the leads, all well there and all providing spark. On removing the lead from Cyl 3 the porcelain part of the plug was stuck in the lead and the plug was in two pieces. Guess that's the source of my misfire then.

Couldn't get the broken piece out of the lead, ended up ripping the boot sadly, so fitted new Bougicord leads and an old plug and voila, no misfire.

That means 2/5 spark plugs in a pack had a manufacturing fault (one was broken in packaging, and then this one)... Crazy! Definitely won't be buying genuine plugs anymore, utterly pathetic. Going back to the NGK PFR6Bs (equivalent to the OEM Champion RC8GYCs) I had before.

____________________

Today I also fit a new heater core, very easy to do fundamentally, took 30 mins (drama aside). However, there was a lot of drama, not at all plain sailing. Despite fully clamping both heater hoses my entire coolant drained into the footwell. Luckily I had a catch can there so saved around 3 litres of it. Not cool, don't know how all those in this forums how-to managed it. Then upon leak testing once everything was fully tightened again I saw coolant leaking from the connector between pipe and matrix - turns out the new o-ring had a small tear. Cue me losing the 3 litres I had saved first time round, which now means I'm fresh out of coolant.

I think next time (if there is one) I have to do anything related to heater matrix I am just going to drop my coolant entirely before hand. Then all I can lose is whatever is in the core itself.

Given I now need coolant, and my current coolant isn't genuine stuff (I buy it from the local independent Volvo specialists, it is the correct type for these engines), can I just drain the remainder, if any, of my current stuff by pulling the rad hoses and engine drain plug and then fill up with genuine? Or would I need to do a full flush(water/chemical?).

Not had a good day today, clearly, but at least I'm trying it myself, learning new skills and also still saving money - despite now needing new coolant!

[bmdubya1198]

Okay dokay. Checked the leads, all well there and all providing spark. On removing the lead from Cyl 3 the porcelain part of the plug was stuck in the lead and the plug was in two pieces. Guess that's the source of my misfire then.

Couldn't get the broken piece out of the lead, ended up ripping the boot sadly, so fitted new Bougicord leads and an old plug and voila, no misfire.

That means 2/5 spark plugs in a pack had a manufacturing fault (one was broken in packaging, and then this one)... Crazy! Definitely won't be buying genuine plugs anymore, utterly pathetic. Going back to the NGK PFR6Bs (equivalent to the OEM Champion RC8GYCs) I had before.

____________________

Today I also fit a new heater core, very easy to do fundamentally, took 30 mins (drama aside). However, there was a lot of drama, not at all plain sailing. Despite fully clamping both heater hoses my entire coolant drained into the footwell. Luckily I had a catch can there so saved around 3 litres of it. Not cool, don't know how all those in this forums how-to managed it. Then upon leak testing once everything was fully tightened again I saw coolant leaking from the connector between pipe and matrix - turns out the new o-ring had a small tear. Cue me losing the 3 litres I had saved first time round, which now means I'm fresh out of coolant.

I think next time (if there is one) I have to do anything related to heater matrix I am just going to drop my coolant entirely before hand. Then all I can lose is whatever is in the core itself.

Given I now need coolant, and my current coolant isn't genuine stuff (I buy it from the local independent Volvo specialists, it is the correct type for these engines), can I just drain the remainder, if any, of my current stuff by pulling the rad hoses and engine drain plug and then fill up with genuine? Or would I need to do a full flush(water/chemical?).

Not had a good day today, clearly, but at least I'm trying it myself, learning new skills and also still saving money - despite now needing new coolant!

Glad you got the misfire sorted out!

As for the heater core, I use a large trash bag (plastic lawn/leaf bag type). It usually works well, but make sure the edges aren't on the floor and there isn't a pinhole leak in the bag. That happened when I did the heater core on my GLT. Fortunately the coolant that spilled stayed on the floor mat and didn't make a huge mess of my carpet.
I also always drain the coolant from the radiator petcock first. Makes for much less of a mess!

If the coolant you're currently using is compatible with the OE Volvo blue stuff, you should be okay to mix them. I would still at least flush the system out with clean water just to try to get as much of the old coolant out, though. It shouldn't hurt anything, I just don't like the colors mixing! My Zerex G-05 still has a little green in it from the old Prestone.

[WhatAmIDoing]

I should say that the car was not misfiring before changing the plugs. Would this change my approach at all? Could be a duff plug I suppose.

Check that all the wires are seated properly on the plugs and make sure 2 wires didn't get switched. It's possible the wires were so worn that one broke when you pulled it off the old plug.

Okay dokay. Checked the leads, all well there and all providing spark. On removing the lead from Cyl 3 the porcelain part of the plug was stuck in the lead and the plug was in two pieces. Guess that's the source of my misfire then.

Couldn't get the broken piece out of the lead, ended up ripping the boot sadly, so fitted new Bougicord leads and an old plug and voila, no misfire.

That means 2/5 spark plugs in a pack had a manufacturing fault (one was broken in packaging, and then this one)... Crazy! Definitely won't be buying genuine plugs anymore, utterly pathetic. Going back to the NGK PFR6Bs (equivalent to the OEM Champion RC8GYCs) I had before.

____________________

Today I also fit a new heater core, very easy to do fundamentally, took 30 mins (drama aside). However, there was a lot of drama, not at all plain sailing. Despite fully clamping both heater hoses my entire coolant drained into the footwell. Luckily I had a catch can there so saved around 3 litres of it. Not cool, don't know how all those in this forums how-to managed it. Then upon leak testing once everything was fully tightened again I saw coolant leaking from the connector between pipe and matrix - turns out the new o-ring had a small tear. Cue me losing the 3 litres I had saved first time round, which now means I'm fresh out of coolant.

I think next time (if there is one) I have to do anything related to heater matrix I am just going to drop my coolant entirely before hand. Then all I can lose is whatever is in the core itself.

Given I now need coolant, and my current coolant isn't genuine stuff (I buy it from the local independent Volvo specialists, it is the correct type for these engines), can I just drain the remainder, if any, of my current stuff by pulling the rad hoses and engine drain plug and then fill up with genuine? Or would I need to do a full flush(water/chemical?).

Not had a good day today, clearly, but at least I'm trying it myself, learning new skills and also still saving money - despite now needing new coolant!

I don't see the point in buying Volvo sparkplugs for $50 when I can get quality plugs elsewhere for under $25.

It always pays to check O-rings before install. It's also a good idea to clean up the heater core coupler before sealing it back up.

I would flush with distilled water, add concentrated coolant to half the capacity, then top off with distilled water. I personally think this is the easiest way to do it, because then you don't have to make sure the entire system is empty before adding 50/50.

[abscate]

Run your coolant out by flushing with hose water before dropping the core.

Water is a lot easier to clean up than coolant.

You can test run it on water and , again, let any leaks just dry out.

Once it’s all sorted, add 4 liters coolant or as needed for 50-50


10 HP increase for having Volvo written on each plug..2 HP per plug.

Cracked plugs were probably dropped in their preinstall life

[WhatAmIDoing]

Run your coolant out by flushing with hose water before dropping the core.

Water is a lot easier to clean up than coolant.

You can test run it on water and , again, let any leaks just dry out.

Once it’s all sorted, add 4 liters coolant or as needed for 50-50


10 HP increase for having Volvo written on each plug..2 HP per plug.

Cracked plugs were probably dropped in their preinstall life

I would be careful using hose water. My water comes out of the ground harder than a brick, actually feels gritty in your hands.

[bmdubya1198]

I would be careful using hose water. My water comes out of the ground harder than a brick, actually feels gritty in your hands.

That's something that depends on your local water. The water around here is probably okay to use. Fortunately these are all aluminum engines, so rust isn't a concern.

[WhatAmIDoing]

I would be careful using hose water. My water comes out of the ground harder than a brick, actually feels gritty in your hands.

That's something that depends on your local water. The water around here is probably okay to use. Fortunately these are all aluminum engines, so rust isn't a concern.

Rust isn't a concern. Minerals in your tap water which clog up radiators and small orifices in you cooling system (as well as increase conductivity) is the problem, which is why you should only use distilled water.

[Cookeh]

I live in quite a hard water area so always use distilled. It's cheap enough to buy too, especially considering how infrequently coolant needs changing. £2 for 3-5 years is nothing really.

Agree with you on spark plugs, WhatAmIDoing, only went for Volvo this time as I was in the dealership anyway to get some other pieces and they offered me a good price on them (£40). For reference the NGK PFR6Bs and Bosch FR7DPs come to £37 and £34 respectively.

[abscate]

Enjoyed the 350 mile drive from upstate, down to Manhattan, late night conference/ dinner, rolled up I87 at 62 mph /27 mpg In the T5

Manhattan with a stick....waggle waggle waggle

Hello Giuseppe, inspiration for Willow Verdi, no doubt