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Engine Temperature Increase after Water Pump, Thermostat and Coolant replacement

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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XC70Rider
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Engine Temperature Increase after Water Pump, Thermostat and Coolant replacement

Post by XC70Rider »

While doing the timing belt last month I also flushed out the coolant and installed a new water pump and thermostat. The coolant was gold so might of been Zerex G05. I flushed all the old coolant out with a garden hose then ran distilled water thru system 4 times to clean out the system.

Here are the new cooling systems parts installed

>Aisin Water Pump 524581
>Volvo Antifreeze 31439821
>Beck Arnley Thermostat 143-0851

She would previously reach only 188F then down to 185F when thermostat opened. After installing new parts she now reaches 192F during acceleration and 202F during bumper-to-bumper city traffic. It only drops down to 188F when aftermarket thermostat opens.

I know water alone will keep it cooler. You presume it's the aftermarket thermostat or maybe getting warmer with a higher % of antifreeze in the system?

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Post by prwood »

The thermostat has a specified opening temperature, and there is often a range of possibilities that fit the same model of car. It may be that you swapped to one with a higher opening temperature. I know on my '01 V70 2.4T the thermostat opens at 195F, and the normal ECT range is 195F-215F.
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Post by XC70Rider »

The housing appears to be identical so I'll try re-installing the OEM thermostat and ECT sensor to see if temp changes.

To swap those parts does any of the new coolant need to be drained?

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Post by abscate »

You will lose a bit, like 500 mL if you don't drain down. Cover the alternator, rinse off, top up when done with 50-50.
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Post by XC70Rider »

abscate wrote: 11 Mar 2019, 14:03 You will lose a bit, like 500 mL if you don't drain down. Cover the alternator, rinse off, top up when done with 50-50.
I'll get another gallon at the local Volvo dealership tomorrow. With the cooling system thoroughly cleaned out I don't want to risk reusing a half liter of drained coolant.

I've reused coolant using coffee filters and paint screens on cheaper vehicles but not this time. I've already installed at least $1,500 of parts for repairs and preventive maintenance. The only general maintenance remaining is the OEM suspension and exhaust.

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Post by XC70Rider »

While driving 200+ miles to and from Boston the engine not only got hot but the MAP is reading hot air intake. When I installed the Beck/ Arnley Thermnostat with the Asin Water pump and Volvo coolant last February I did notice the valve wouldn’t open until it reaches 192f and then only drop to 188f. Now the air intake is also extremely warmer.

When driving on level highway the intake temp was 20f above ambient temperature. Until last week the intercooler always brought the air intake down to outside ambient temp.

Image

It was 70f when raining yesterday morning when I took this snapshot on my smartphone application. As you can see the air intake is 91f while driving a mere 67mph. When the valve opens to allow the radiator to cool the engine the air intake would also drop a few degrees.

I opened the hood when I got home and the over-the-engine pipe was extremely hot along with the engine. The electrical tape on the coil harness is melting off. I checked the 2 intercooler pipes and couldn’t find any disconnections nor rips in the 2 Reinz rubber hoses I installed on the over-the-engine pipe. The MAP was seated correctly.

I’ll fully remove both intercooler pipes for inspection. No OBD11 Codes appear so I’ll hook up VIDA to see if any DTCs are present.

Is the hot engine causing the air intake to increase?

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Post by Rattnalle »

XC70Rider wrote: 11 Mar 2019, 15:20
abscate wrote: 11 Mar 2019, 14:03 You will lose a bit, like 500 mL if you don't drain down. Cover the alternator, rinse off, top up when done with 50-50.
I'll get another gallon at the local Volvo dealership tomorrow. With the cooling system thoroughly cleaned out I don't want to risk reusing a half liter of drained coolant.

I've reused coolant using coffee filters and paint screens on cheaper vehicles but not this time. I've already installed at least $1,500 of parts for repairs and preventive maintenance. The only general maintenance remaining is the OEM suspension and exhaust.
Keep the exhaust until it actually breaks. Replacements are of poor quality compared to the one piece original. Often they don't actually need replacing during the cars life.

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Post by XC70Rider »

Rattnalle wrote: 26 Jun 2019, 08:12 Keep the exhaust until it actually breaks. Replacements are of poor quality compared to the one piece original. Often they don't actually need replacing during the cars life.
Already replaced the exhaust in early May and that didn't cause any issues. What I'm facing now is a hot air intake and an engine heating up higher than normal while driving slowly on the highway during a cool day.

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Post by Rattnalle »

XC70Rider wrote: 26 Jun 2019, 08:17
Rattnalle wrote: 26 Jun 2019, 08:12 Keep the exhaust until it actually breaks. Replacements are of poor quality compared to the one piece original. Often they don't actually need replacing during the cars life.
Already replaced the exhaust in early May and that didn't cause any issues. What I'm facing now is a hot air intake and an engine heating up higher than normal while driving slowly on the highway during a cool day.
They last much shorter but work just as well until then.

Hot air intake does sound a bit suspicious. All funnels in place so it takes air from outside the engine bay as intended?

As for engine temp you've really only got circulation and thermostat opening temp to check. Did you have any luck putting the old thermostat back on?

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Post by XC70Rider »

Rattnalle wrote: 26 Jun 2019, 08:23
XC70Rider wrote: 26 Jun 2019, 08:17
Rattnalle wrote: 26 Jun 2019, 08:12 Keep the exhaust until it actually breaks. Replacements are of poor quality compared to the one piece original. Often they don't actually need replacing during the cars life.
Already replaced the exhaust in early May and that didn't cause any issues. What I'm facing now is a hot air intake and an engine heating up higher than normal while driving slowly on the highway during a cool day.
They last much shorter but work just as well until then.

Hot air intake does sound a bit suspicious. All funnels in place so it takes air from outside the engine bay as intended?

As for engine temp you've really only got circulation and thermostat opening temp to check. Did you have any luck putting the old thermostat back on?
I did pop off and inspect the air tube from the grille to air box. That connection was fine. The funnel in the grille appeared to be in place but I'll inspect it further today. I'll remove the air filter out of the box, the air tube to turbo, and both intercooler pipes for inspection. I'll also hook up VIDA and see if any DTCs are present. No OBD11 codes appeared.

I haven't swapped the OEM thermostat yet. If nothing wrong with the air pipes nor DTCs then I'll drain a few liters of coolant and re-install the OEM valve. I got 2 extra thermostat gaskets.

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