1996 850 Turbo Wagon cranks but does not start

KubilayK · Post by **KubilayK** » 18 Nov 2007, 13:24

Hi all,

I opened a new topic as you said so. I have been reading this forum and I found it so helpful. Now it's my turn to ask a question. I have 1996 850 Turbo Wagon and it has a strange and the same problem going on. Last week I drove it w/o any problem and parked it. When I came back, it did not start. It cranked but no ignition. I checked battery poles and cleaned. Did not work. I tried jump start. Did not work. Same thing, cranking but no ignition. Then I left the car over there a day. I tried again next day. It was almost starting but stalled again. Then when I tried and tried, it went worse. No ignition. Even new battery did not work. (Finally I had my car towed to my place)

Then I tried to read codes. I bought a new code reader. Guess what. Reader did not work. I returned it. I am wondering if ODB II is available for my car or not. (I got a simple Acton from Advance Auto. The scanner says NO CODE)

My car has a battery problem historically. Two months ago, car did not start even no cranking. Then I cleaned the battery poles, it worked. Same thing happened last month. Then I played with fuses. It worked again. But not this time.

Last thing, last winter when it was cold, it was misfiring when I stopped at the red light or stop signs after driving 20-30 minutes. When I put the transmission to neutral, it was ok. I am telling you this since I have got this ignition problem when we got the first cold weather of the year! This car has an allergy to cold weather.

By the way two weeks ago, spark plugs and radiator were replaced by my mechanic.

I checked:
- injectors if they are getting enough fuel. The valve at the fuel rail does not have fuel. No squirk.
- Fuses are ok
- No HUM sound from the fuel pump when you try to start engine
- I looked at the fuel pump relay 103, it looks ok. How can I check it?

Questions:
- Where is temp sensor located exactly? left, right, under what?
- If I need, can I replace fuel pump? Is there any safety issue?

Thanks a lot.

Kubi

Any help?

Thanks a lot.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 18 Nov 2007, 16:18

There is a way to jumper the sockets for the fuel pump relay to see if it's the relay. The write-up is in the repair database. Look for it. I suspect a fuel pump relay or worse yet, the fuel pump itself has gone south.

Post by **tailor** » 18 Nov 2007, 17:12

Take a look here
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... f830865692

I had the same probelm a new filter and pump and cleaning of the ground lugs was the cure. Do not drive the tank dry keep at a 1/4 full if possible.

Tailor

KubilayK · Post by **KubilayK** » 30 Nov 2007, 19:16

Some guys say: "You can narrow down the problem quite easily. Remove the housing around the fuse box under the hood and then remove relay number 103. There are 4 terminal numbers molded into the plastic on that relay, 31, 31b, 87, and 15. Make a jumper wire that fits between the sockets corresponding with the 15 and 87 lugs on the relay and see how the car runs. Whenever you arrive at your destination be sure to remove the jumper wire. If it runs OK either repair or replace the fuel pump relay. If you still have issues with the jumper in place then chances are it is the fuel pump itself. "

What type of jumper wire should I se for that?

Kubi

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 01 Dec 2007, 06:36

What type of jumper wire should I (u)se for that?

Kubi,

In a perfect world you would get a pair of spade lugs and crimp them onto an 18 gauge jumper wire. For testing purposes you can use about anything so long as you don't do any damage to the socket. The way the socket is made I don't think it will really allow you to try to shove in a wire that is so large (i.e. 12 gauge solid copper) that it would do any damage.

...Lee

KubilayK · Post by **KubilayK** » 01 Dec 2007, 08:31

It did not work. I used a regular wire and tried. The same response. Crank but no ignition. So all the ways go to fuel pump I guess.

Thanks.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 01 Dec 2007, 08:48

Yeah, sounds that way.

MikeChick · Post by **MikeChick** » 06 Dec 2007, 10:44

I just replaced my fuel pump (96 850 GLT) a number of months ago. I used the rebuild kit and had good luck with it. The one thing that did throw me off a bit was when I was trying the (rebuilt) unit, it took nearly 30 seconds of constant-on time to get it to flow. I guess it needed to be "primed". All in all, a reasonably straightforward job that took just a couple of hours.

KubilayK · Post by **KubilayK** » 31 Dec 2007, 10:41

My spark plugs are making good sparks, I saw that. I bought a new fuel pump relay. It did not work. I realized that replacing fuel pump is a big task for me. I think I am little bit disabled for this type of job. I could not understand the logic and decied to go with a professional. I moved out everything to see the pump and sending unit but pulling out those things is too much for me. Now my car is like a mass inside.

I called my professional bodies, they told me that they need to put new pump and sending unit. Is that always the case? What does sending unit do? I also called small shops, one guy gave me very low quote just for pump replacement. Would that be reliable?

I need your expertise on this. All help is appreciated.

Thanks

By the way, Happy New year!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 31 Dec 2007, 10:55

On most pump assemblies the pump and the fuel gauge sending unit are one part. On our Volvos that is not the case. If your fuel gauge reads correctly I would leave the sending unit alone.

Replacing the fuel pump assembly, while being easiest, is also the most expensive way to go. A much less expensive route is to simply replace the electric pump.

Walbro makes a replacement pump that is less than half of the cost of replacing the assembly. I have never heard of anyone that replaced the pump with a Walbro and ever had to replace it again.

...Lee