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What problems to expect on V70 2006 after 200,000 km

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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abscate  
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Re: What problems to expect on V70 2006 after 200,000 km

Post by abscate »

Oh, anther thing, last summer when during a camping trip with the 4 kids with a trailer in the mountains, the engine oil disappeared and the engine stopped. After 15 minutes the oil came back by itself magically and I could resume my trip. I did an oil change when back home and it never did it again. Can this be a symptom of the PCV system failure ?
Was this engine oil pressure? Probably a sensor glitch but definitely watch this carefully

Under load, you have seconds to shut off an engine without oil pressure before damage

An XC70 will run 500,000 km if you care for her, cheaper than depreciation of a new car by 3x
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Post by Dynamic D »

The engine shut off by itself. Then I looked at the dipstick and it was dry, but as time went by, the oil started to come back and the level on the dipstick raised until it was back to normal maybe 15 minutes or so after the engine shutdown. At that moment, I started the car and everything seemed normal. From there I looked from time to time and the oil level on the dipstick was always good. I never had the problem again, but I never had to push the engine so hard either.
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Post by oragex »

Right after the engine is shut down, the oil is spread all over inside the engine galleries, engine head, etc. It takes a few minutes to drop back into the oil pan when it will show again on the dipstick (the dipstick will measure only about 1L at the top of the oil pan). But if the oil took longer to reapear on the dipstick, I would indeed suspect perhaps a faulty PCV system, perhaps the oil gets trapped inside the PCV box? I would replace it, even if the box feels empty when removed. Is this the turbo engine ? The PCV kit is a little expensive

Depending on the engine serial number - on the sticker on the timing belt cover (compare to the fitment section on the Fcp site)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... it#fitment
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 86#fitment

The reason the engine shut down by itself is however elsewhere.. You mention you were pushing the engine hard at that moment, I would perhaps verify the PEM module (google) for corrosion, maybe even the FPS - but others will come with more suggestions as well hopefully. remember that the fuel pump on these cars is very durable but mechanics who don't know Volvo may replace them for no reason. May as well replace the fuel filter if it's the external type one

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Post by Dynamic D »

Just before the engine shut down (like 5 seconds before) I had a red warning that the car was low on oil... So I have the impression that the problem was the oil getting stuck somewhere.

My engine is naturally aspirate (no turbo). I've looked at the video on how to replace the PVC, it seems quite a job... I'm not sure I'm brave enough to do it myself. How much should I expect to cost it I have it done by a mechanic ?
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Post by Dynamic D »

Oh and I also looked for the timing belt / water pump replacement. It doesn't look to bad on the video, but anyone have an idea of how much time it could take me to do it myself ? My mechanic is telling me 3.5 hours + 400$ (CAN)to do the job. I have the impression that is it a bit excessive..

Also, on one of the videos, I saw that the guy put some kind of silicone glue on the gasket (I forgot the exact name, but it was yellow on the pump side and red on the engine side). I'm a bit surprised because I thought that you wouldn't want to put anything on a gasket to ensure you have good sealing. Does someone have any opinion on that ?

Thanks.
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Post by abscate »

4 hours is a fair quote for TB and water pump. You can do it in less, but if bolts get stuck or break it can take more, too.

That is probably a book rate for that job, which is fair.
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Post by Rattnalle »

It took me as a DIY three hours or so, first time ever for me.

Dry water pump gasket on clean surfaces.

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Post by Dynamic D »

Abscate, you are frightening me ! I thought that since it is protected the bolts will likely be easy to remove... but broken bolts are my nightmare ! I don't know yet how to deal with that... You really think that I could have broken bolt changing the timing belt ?

Thanks Ratnalle. 3 hours for a first time, that is encouraging. I need to think about it... and make sure that I don't risk to brake some bolts !
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Post by abscate »

It’s the water pump you have to be careful. Get PB blaster on the bolts and give them a day to soak, them ease them out and you will be fine.
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Post by Rattnalle »

All my bolts were fine even though I'm in a salt and winter climate. But back off and blast them if anything doesn't give straight away.

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