Repairing punctured radiator tube in S90? Topic is solved

[crater33]

I own a 1998 Volvo S90. Several of the undercarriage panels are missing as well as the front spoiler. As I was driving down I-10 the other day, I noticed a "coolant level low" light and when I pulled over to investigate, I saw a small jet of coolant shooting out of the front of my radiator. Apparently, a rock put a small hole in the second-from-the bottom tube in my radiator, dead-center.

What irks me, is that this is a new OEM radiator. I had my factory-original radiator replaced with a genuine Volvo original part #8603907 a little less than two years ago at a cost of $500 parts & labor. And when I brought my car back to the mechanic they said that it wouldn't be covered by the manufacturer's warranty because of the missing undercarriage & bumper panels. So it will cost me an additional $500 to replace again!

I would like to know if my radiator could be repaired ... either by me, or by a professional brazing/soldering shop? I've looked through the forums and used the powersearch feature but can't find any information. I can't even tell if my radiator is an aluminum core or a copper core. If it is an aluminum core, is there anything I can do? Even as a temporary fix? And is there anything I can do to protect the bottom of my radiator from road debris, short of tracking down the factory OEM panels in junkyards? I don't care if its ugly, I just need it to work.

Here's a video of the leak:

[crater33]

Looks like its probably aluminum from reading the replacement options over at RockOughto. But the genuine Volvo part might be different. Their website really doesn't give any useful information

[RickHaleParker]

I had a leak like that on my S90.
You can repair that yourself for next to nothing.

1. Mark the leak so you can find it later.
2. Drain the Radiator.
3. Clean area around the leak with Acetone and a small brush. Let Acetone evaporate before moving on.
4. Mix up some JB Weld Original.
5. Patch the leak with the JB Weld, push the JB Weld down into the leak and the radiator as you apply it.
6. Take a penny and and further force the JB weld into the leak.
7. Leave the penny in place and let the JB Weld cure for 24 hours.
8. Refill Radiator.

The idea is to encapsulate the leak and the tube with the leak in JB Weld. That is why you force the JB weld into the raditor. If you got the metal around the leak clean with the Acetone, the JB Weld will bond with the metal and it will not leak.

You leave the penny in place because if you pull it off you might pull the JB Weld away from where you need it to be. You will need to hold the penny in place for about 10 - 15 minutes as it sets. This has the added benefit of keeping pressure on the JB Weld and keeping it where you need it until it sets up and will stay in place on it's own.

eEuroparts has the 1997-98 Volvo S90 Splash Guard/Skid Plate for $15.00. It is crappy URO but its better then nothing.

[crater33]

Is there anything more permanent than JB weld? I've seen a few videos of people using "low-temperature" aluminum brazing rods to repair their radiators ... and I own a propane torch. But I've never soldered/brazed with it before. A third option I've heard about is just crimping the tube closed on both ends to remove it from the loop.

This is an example of the brazing fix I've seen. But I always heard that aluminum radiators couldn't be "repaired" only copper ones. So I'm a bit confused

[RickHaleParker]

Is there anything more permanent than JB weld?

JB Weld is permanent if you get a good bond, which is true for all welding, that why you need to clean the metal with Acetone.
JB Weld works on all metals.
There is only two way to remove JB Weld once it is cured. Grind it off or heat it to 600 °F or higher.
There are two basic types of welding Thermal welding and Chemical welding.
They don't call it JB Weld for nothing.

[tardcart]

You can't weld aluminum that thin. Maby your mechanic still has your splash guard that he forgot to put back on.

[jimmy57]

That lower part of the radiator is vulnerable on number of vehicles and gets damaged from road debris. I have replaced 940/960/s90/v90 rads for harm in that area even when the lower air deflector is in place. Once you get it repaired you can protect it by cutting a piece of hardware cloth and fashioning a rock guard. Hardware cloth is the screen that good hardware stores, maybe even bad ones like Lowe's or Home Depot, will have in various gauges. Hardware stores will usually sell it by the foot off a roll. Hardware cloth with 1/4 inch opening squares offers good protection and is not going to block air. It is stiff enough in that gauge to retain its shape after it is formed to cover that area. The whole area below bumper height is the vulnerable spot. I have rarely seen a condenser or radiator damaged by a rock more than 16-18 inches above ground. The hardware cloth can be cut with some of those cuts pennies hardware scissors or tin snips. Clamped between 2 pieces of wood will allow a sawzall to cut it. Slide it up in front of rad and condenser and attach with cable ties or mechanic's wire (real baling wire is the absolute best but is not easy to find other than on hay bales) If the pieces have flanges with existing holes on rad or condenser those can be fastening points. Or attach it to the plastic guides. I usually drill holes in some of those air guide pieces in that area and run cable tie or wire through the hole. There have been window screen protectors made for this purpose but those are near impossible to install as they plan on many vehicles these days due to the items in the way between grille and condenser and radiator.

[crater33]

Is there anything more permanent than JB weld?

JB Weld is permanent if you get a good bond, which is true for all welding, that why you need to clean the metal with Acetone.
JB Weld works on all metals.
There is only two way to remove JB Weld once it is cured. Grind it off or heat it to 600 °F or higher.
There are two basic types of welding Thermal welding and Chemical welding.
They don't call it JB Weld for nothing.

Alright, I tried the penny trick with JB Weld. I'll give it 24 hours to cure and we'll see what happens. Keep your fingers crossed, guys

[93Regina]

Alright, I tried the penny trick with JB Weld.

10 Examples of How You Can Be Penny Wise, Pound Foolish

1. Saving money by not going to the doctor for regular check-ups
...
...
10. Haggling for lower prices at a garage sale, but buying a new car to put in your own garage.

Got more?

[crater33]

Is there anything more permanent than JB weld?

JB Weld is permanent if you get a good bond, which is true for all welding, that why you need to clean the metal with Acetone.
JB Weld works on all metals.
There is only two way to remove JB Weld once it is cured. Grind it off or heat it to 600 °F or higher.
There are two basic types of welding Thermal welding and Chemical welding.
They don't call it JB Weld for nothing.

Alright, I tried the penny trick with JB Weld. I'll give it 24 hours to cure and we'll see what happens. Keep your fingers crossed, guys

Alright, the leak seems to have stopped. I'm going to drive it around for a couple days before I close this thread. Thank you for your help!