I'm looking at a 1999 S70, 95,000 miles for $2800. It's a Craigslist thing, from someone who says he was the only owner.
The only stated issue is that the ABS light comes on intermittently, which I gather is common. Do you agree that that's no biggie?
Here's my notes from reading this forum, let me know if anything to add:
- look at full service records
- mid '98 and up have mechanical timing belt tensioner that should be changed with each belt change. Has the belt been changed yet? (it's supposed to be done at 105k) If so did they change the tensioner too?
- after test drive pull dip stick with engine fully warm. look for smoke. PCV system gets clogged. To check the PCV system can also do the "balloon test" / glove test. (
- when it's warm look for drips
- avoid 2001 and 2002 V70's! 2003 and later are good V70s
- ignition switch sometimes has intermittent problems
- power seat controls
- check behind front wheels and make sure CV boots aren't leaking grease
- back the car up a hill in reverse. if something's wrong with the tranny, the first thing to go is usually reverse
About to look at a 1999 S70, any other tips?
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wrybread
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About to look at a 1999 S70, any other tips?
Carlo the Nautic Blue 1998 S70 GLT
Previously Diego the 2000 S70, now has a blown head gasket and is awaiting the coroner
Previously Diego the 2000 S70, now has a blown head gasket and is awaiting the coroner
- matthew1
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Welcome to MVS.
ABS - no biggie.
You've done good homework. Your chances of buying a good Volvo just went up 100% over the average buyer.
here's more:
ABS - no biggie.
You've done good homework. Your chances of buying a good Volvo just went up 100% over the average buyer.
here's more:
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

- DeadEric
- Posts: 80
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- Year and Model: 1996 850 Turbo
- Location: Minnesota
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I like to, on my test drive, try and find a small but noticable bump in the road (manhole cover is usually enough.) Hit it at 25-30 mph on the right side of the car then again on the left. Listening for creaks, clunks, squeeks and the like. Also loosely hold the steering wheel and see how it centers after the bump. Obviously, don't let the car get out of control and crash or harm anything.
This can identify loose or worn steering and suspension parts. The rubber breaks down and the joints wear with age as well as usage.
Low miles for 20 years suggests shorter trips around town and gradual wear that is grown accustom to as the "feel of the car" to the owner.
I bring this up because (even for the DIY guy) steering and suspension can get very spendy very quick.
Lastly, do some (not excessive) hard breaking. Feel the rims near the lug nuts after said breaking (they can get hot, 400°F+ hot.) The fronts and rears should feel about the same temperature (around 200°F for the fronts and less for the rear.) Too hot at a wheel is usually a failing caliper.
This can identify loose or worn steering and suspension parts. The rubber breaks down and the joints wear with age as well as usage.
Low miles for 20 years suggests shorter trips around town and gradual wear that is grown accustom to as the "feel of the car" to the owner.
I bring this up because (even for the DIY guy) steering and suspension can get very spendy very quick.
Lastly, do some (not excessive) hard breaking. Feel the rims near the lug nuts after said breaking (they can get hot, 400°F+ hot.) The fronts and rears should feel about the same temperature (around 200°F for the fronts and less for the rear.) Too hot at a wheel is usually a failing caliper.
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tardcart
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dont look at a car in the rain. tell him if you get there and the engine is warm you are going home. check rack boots for oil. Unfortunately you cant tell the state of the head gasket until you own it, but look at the color of the resivour. dont buy an all wheel drive. the drive shafts go and cost a grand. plus its 300 pounds of dead weight extra plus bad milage..
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wrybread
- Posts: 241
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- Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
- Location: California
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Well I went and looked at it, and it has some problems. The current owner got it 5 years ago from his neighbor (the original owner) and says he hasn't driven it much, but I don't think they did any maintenance at all in that time. The issues I found:
- the most worrisome to me is the color of the tranny fluid, which was pretty brown. Is simply changing the tranny fluid usually enough to fix that? I didn't feel any tranny issues when driving, felt great actually.
- one or more motor mounts seems gone, the motor moves quite a bit when revving with the car in gear but brake applied.
- all fluids need changing.
- Has the PCV problem...
- needs new tires
- ac not working (not a huge deal here in San Francisco)
- has a weird paint issue, there's little flecks of what looks like rusted metal everywhere, but oddly they're on top of the paint, and I think they'll buff off. The theory is it was parked next a construction zone and it got metal dust on it, that then rusted. If I go to look at it again I'm bringing buffing compound to confirm that it's on top of the paint.
He'll go down to $2200. Any thoughts on that or any of the above?
- the most worrisome to me is the color of the tranny fluid, which was pretty brown. Is simply changing the tranny fluid usually enough to fix that? I didn't feel any tranny issues when driving, felt great actually.
- one or more motor mounts seems gone, the motor moves quite a bit when revving with the car in gear but brake applied.
- all fluids need changing.
- Has the PCV problem...
- needs new tires
- ac not working (not a huge deal here in San Francisco)
- has a weird paint issue, there's little flecks of what looks like rusted metal everywhere, but oddly they're on top of the paint, and I think they'll buff off. The theory is it was parked next a construction zone and it got metal dust on it, that then rusted. If I go to look at it again I'm bringing buffing compound to confirm that it's on top of the paint.
He'll go down to $2200. Any thoughts on that or any of the above?
Carlo the Nautic Blue 1998 S70 GLT
Previously Diego the 2000 S70, now has a blown head gasket and is awaiting the coroner
Previously Diego the 2000 S70, now has a blown head gasket and is awaiting the coroner
- matthew1
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14483
- Joined: 14 September 2002
- Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
- Location: Denver, Colorado, US
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I'm not crazy for a $2200 S70. In 2019, most of these cars are straddling the line between running and scrap value.
The market does not put value on the utility, design, and safety of these.
The market does not put value on the utility, design, and safety of these.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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