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Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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xanthefin
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Year and Model: 1997 850
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Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by xanthefin » Sat May 11, 2019 10:44 am

Thought share here too history of my estate and with lots of pics if someones likes or if someone can spots my errors and give advices.
I wasn't sure where post this mix of project car/tips as wanted this too share what i came up with too as DIY tutorials. I saw there is some loose that in here sections has been posted own car threads too.



I have done aftermarket remote keyless system to this car and quick tip how to do.. it i left it here:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18758&start=30#p506841
It's easy job.




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VIN = YV1LW5106V2336944 - Estate - 1997 850 with 2.4l 10V







v. 2015-


Honestly i was broke and car i had didn't go through inspection and this was going to sell but i thought if i can get because i can't afford fix my earlier car... So lets blame that why i got here in Volvo world :mrgreen:
Car has been once fixed from front collision accident (not me :mrgreen: ) which i don't have any detailed info but other tyre is more out than other side if look at fenders sharply :roll:



Time goes and it's time for Timing Belt and don't ask me to make your work if you scared how i do.

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Then Fuel Pump got me.. and new one from Swedish Parts came and been work since
(firstly had random problems but it was air in system which removed pressing fuel rail valve until fuel came only)
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When driving in rain on motorway i thought lets do brake work now as nothing happened in first moments after pressing pedal and then.. Biltema sports! :mrgreen: (been working just fine)
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2016



I ordered from IPD to do a breather system but i didn't got right seal for this (BUT now 2019 year i did find that yes i have one!) so i did put old one with lots of sealing grease/glue back on and no problem to this day.
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Oil cap did flew hiding on motorway away to scare me... Keep them tight in position. Could be bad.
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Thanks again all internet info i did change successfully the gearbox juices. mmmm... :oops:
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-Both control arms replaced from front during this time-

2017?


Hand brake work for why it stopped working..
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2018

Battery holder re-engineered to pass inspection.

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.. and that very headache thingy from back. I answered after multiple hours frustration with my own engineered 'hammer hit adapter' and drilled that black rubber around it and then it did come out :mrgreen: And when turn adapter to other side i was able hit new one back. :wink:

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Nothing to see here! I didn't try pass broken bottom heater and try use only back heater.. :oops: :?
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2019

Now did change other side to Meyle HD and other side i did change only those back things to new one. Lets see if it needs be replaced with Meyle HD too then in future. This car loves destroy these almost yearly.
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First time in many many years i change brake fluid and these air bleed nuts from back to new because old ones didn't survive opening...
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This bottle (of Biltema) works for airing if you screw open the valve into it's final threads.
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Anyone..?
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Works! If you have patiences. :wink:
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This has been one pain spot for me too yearly.. i did fix the bad contacts and broke original holding system and glued magnets to hold it so easier continue fixing if need still or change bulb.
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..And then snow did melt and this happened. :x

SEE THAT BOOT IS OKAY! :mrgreen:
Only thing was that those clamps it came with wasn't proper fit to keep it at right place and busted fully CV axle. I advice if you put something like these that you surely have right TIGHT clamps AND clean surfaces AND GLUE doesn't hurt if you put small amount there.
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I chose Meyle again. Thanks of matthews forums info and Robert video how change this. It was easy.
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Friend donated for me original Volvo Radio which i replaced burned bulbs into leds and good enough to me.
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This year aim is to fight against all rust before they eat through. Battery maybe needs be replaced as it has been bought at 2014 too and this winter it did let me down if car did sit couple days. And i am looking for Radio to Bluetooth via CD changer faking as i want controls via radio work. :arrow:
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abscate
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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by abscate » Sun May 12, 2019 5:31 am

I haven’t seen a 56k warning in a while. My bits get delivered by us mail though, so maybe that’s a new thing.


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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by Peevarino » Sun May 12, 2019 6:24 am

That anvil clamp for those rear control arm links is clever!


09 XC70 3.2
97 855R

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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by amblerman » Sun May 12, 2019 1:32 pm

Can you expand on how you removed the rear control arm link? I understand how your home made tool attaches to the link but what did you use to pull it out or press it in?

Thanks



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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by LOB » Sun May 12, 2019 1:51 pm

Can you recommend using zip ties as a camshaft lock changing timing belt? No risk of one or two teeth off?



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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by xanthefin » Sun May 12, 2019 2:28 pm

amblerman wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 1:32 pm
Can you expand on how you removed the rear control arm link? I understand how your home made tool attaches to the link but what did you use to pull it out or press it in?

Thanks
That hammer on floor in picture and very determined mind (don't know hammer exact name in english.. it has like sand inside it.. i like it much myself to get best punch and wont bounce in impact).

You will hit the big flat spot of adapter under rear control arm link with hammer as hard you can.
First at taking out its at back - rear so it pulls out.
Then you flip adapter and it pushes back as you hit that (more clear in second picture with new one.. you hit that big grey spot under rear control arm to push control arm link).



Taking out i drilled that plastic/rubber broke through as was possible to make it more loose by doing so. Can be seen pieces of rubber on floor and that rubber is totally broke around it when its off. Broke my Bosch drill bit in process but was worth it :mrgreen:



On installing back new one i did just flip adapter so that bolts are touching the rubber and when hammer it.. it did push directly on rubber / rear control arm link and not the main middle thing which bounces if you try hammer it directly because you would waste most energy by doing so... Plus i used high speed grease (SKF LGHP 2/hiwin grease g04) on new rubber to help it going.. But it was just what i had near me at the time as lubrication.




Super cheap to diy.
LOB wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 1:51 pm
Can you recommend using zip ties as a camshaft lock changing timing belt? No risk of one or two teeth off?
Well i don't want recommend honestly so no one blames me if worst things happens.. i just did check carefully nothing was too off before first start :mrgreen:

Addition: I am myself one of those who is actually maybe over careful so that i always want turn engine over at least couple times by hand until i am sure nothing is hitting valves no matter if did with right tools or.. zip ties :mrgreen: then crank engine



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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by amblerman » Sun May 12, 2019 2:49 pm

xanthefin wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 2:28 pm
amblerman wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 1:32 pm
Can you expand on how you removed the rear control arm link? I understand how your home made tool attaches to the link but what did you use to pull it out or press it in?

Thanks
That hammer on floor in picture and very determined mind (don't know hammer exact name in english.. it has like sand inside it.. i like it much myself to get best punch and wont bounce in impact).
Thanks for the explanation. Over here in the US, we call that type of hammer a "dead blow" hammer.
-A



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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by Peevarino » Mon May 13, 2019 5:03 am

Mind posting a couple more pictures of the “anvil” you made to hammer those out?


09 XC70 3.2
97 855R

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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by abscate » Mon May 13, 2019 5:10 am

LOB wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 1:51 pm
Can you recommend using zip ties as a camshaft lock changing timing belt? No risk of one or two teeth off?
Works well with solid cams, before 1999

But, no need if you remove spark plugs during timing belt job.


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xanthefin
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Re: Volvo 850 '97 Project - One Collision [56K warning]

Post by xanthefin » Tue May 14, 2019 1:39 pm

amblerman wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 2:49 pm
xanthefin wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 2:28 pm
amblerman wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 1:32 pm
Can you expand on how you removed the rear control arm link? I understand how your home made tool attaches to the link but what did you use to pull it out or press it in?

Thanks
That hammer on floor in picture and very determined mind (don't know hammer exact name in english.. it has like sand inside it.. i like it much myself to get best punch and wont bounce in impact).
Thanks for the explanation. Over here in the US, we call that type of hammer a "dead blow" hammer.
-A
Welcome and thanks! Sometimes lost with translation sorry.

Peevarino wrote:
Mon May 13, 2019 5:03 am
Mind posting a couple more pictures of the “anvil” you made to hammer those out?
No problem. Free to use if helps anything :mrgreen:



Image


Image

Image


I had too longer 90mm bolt pair too to help just fiddling.. then put tighter ones as could. Anyway its just "hurry i want job done" prototype. :wink:





For the car..

*I can be totally wrong or this is pure accident of couple things happening same time but..*

When i changed summer tires i had instant tyre shake or even steering wheel shaking at low city speeds.

But as i did change the aluminum wheel center plastic hub 'logo' thingy to new which were super tight fit there... result was shaking steering on low city speeds was noticeably gone (NOT FULLY but the MOST amount was GONE).
The one on passenger side was super loose. Just pop with finger poke off.

No.. yes.. Something fell off as i did install those new caps back on?



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