2006 V70 brake Vacuum pump/switch 31317445 31265825 Topic is solved

[nuj]

This was so helpful I thought I'd chime in with a bit of extra info. I had the same issue with my XC90 with an added extra that may be peculiar to Australian versions only. The fuse for the XC90 2004 T6 model is only 15amp and is used for both the vacuum pump and the power steering . I had a burnt out pump which blew the fuse and hence took out the power steering as well.
I searched high and low for the fuse panel which was not under the steering wheel nor passenger side, where other sites had indicated, (there is no fuse panel at all in these locations for 2004 XC90 versions in Australia). The fuse was located in the panel beside the dashboard. Fuse no. 16

[abscate]

good to see this discussion! it is really helpful for me.

Do you people can help me in choosing vacuum cleaner
i have decided Roomba 690 robot vacuum

You want Matts vacuum site, not Matts Volvo site.

Have fun in the Internet vacuum of banned spam.

[EngineeringBloke]

nuj, the 2004 Volvo XC90 Owners Manual shows only 3 locations for fuse panels, and there is indeed no fuse panel under the dash.
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/200 ... .htm#pg143
I assume there was no difference between Australian models and those in the US and Europe,

By 2006, the XC90 had added it and has 4 fuse panels.
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/200 ... .htm#pg164

As is the case with the 2006 V60, and with my 06 S60, there is such a panel:
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/200 ... .htm#pg143

[dono]

I broke my brake vacuum switch when changing the left front headlight. At the time I had difficulty identifying what the part was so in shade tree tradition I used electrical tape to put the spring-loaded switch back together. It worked for 8 months when the engine developed a buzzing sound - the brake vacuum pump was operating all the time the car was on. Recalling the fact that I had broken the 'thingy' now identified as the vacuum pump switch I reasoned that the switch was the cause of the pump operating all the time. I also tentatively eliminated system leak as the cause by detaching the hose connecting the switch to the booster and plugging the port to the switch - this did not turn off the pump as it should have if a leak from that side was the problem.

While waiting a couple days for the part I did unplug the pump - possibly an unwise choice. I never noted any symptoms in my braking either with the pump on all the time or with it disconnected. The switch installation takes about one minute. The new switch resolved the issue. I figured I had to replace the broken switch but I probably could have just re-taped it or JB Welded it. Seemed a little hack especially since Im not well versed in vacuum systems so new part was the fix for me.

2004 Volvo V70 2.5T AWD Wagon
IPD Item #: 235367
Description: BOOSTER VACUUM SWITCH P2 VARIOUS
Qty Ordered: 1
Net Price: $79.95
Cross Reference: 30645493, 31265825, 31400692, 81453001001

[abscate]

If you drive like an adult you will never notice the lack of pump, the engine vacuum will keep up with your brake need. If you insist on running up to every light at 55 then hard stopping, you will run the pump all the time and burn it up.

The classic failure is switch fails, pump goes on, pump fails , $400 repair

If you catch the switch early enough, 59 cents of JB weld saves it. 69 cents if you use black instead of grey

[erikv11]

If you drive like an adult you will never notice the lack of pump, the engine vacuum will keep up with your brake need. ...

Note that at startup there is no engine vacuum yet and you will/may notice it all the time. If one tends to start the car and then pretty quickly start backing out of the driveway like my wife does, this can be very unsafe. I heard all about that one.

[oragex]

An updated video

Great video. I did watch Your previous one about lubricating the brake booster seal and ordered the PTFE/ silicon lube from EBay, because you’re mentioning being slightly thinner versus the Volvo lubricant
Do you still recommend using this, it will be delivered next week.
(Item Name: Lubricant TF - Grease Paste -Teflon grease - Ingredients: PTFE , silicone - 3,5g
Item# 263549953669)
Thanks much,

Yes, however note that once the original seal starts 'smearing' and leaking, even just a little, there is no much to do, even adding the special grease won't help. I haven't done it yet, but this summer I would try to replace the seal without removing the booster from the car (the replacement booster also failed at the seal). Will update this post if I succeed.

[radium2013]

Very explanatory and practical. Going to do this recently. Thank you.

[radium2013]

By "measure the impedance between the switch contacts", do you mean the impedance between the metallic contacts that connect to the orange connector?

Thanks.

[XC70Rider]

By "measure the impedance between the switch contacts", do you mean the impedance between the metallic contacts that connect to the orange connector?

Thanks.

You measure the contacts on the brake switch itself that connect to that orange connector. Go back to the very first post in this thread to get more details.

With the brake system under vacuum you'll measure infinite impedance. With no vacuum you'll get zero impedance. If you measure no impedance when the brake system is under vacuum then the switch is defective.