Just got an 07 C70 with a broken roof... How do you manually lock all the pieces of the roof? Topic is solved

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 13 Jun 2019, 22:37

The other day, my cousin calls me out of the blue asking if I was busy because, you know, I heard a loud crack/crunch and my roof is stuck open... We go through a Youtube video of how to manually reset the retractable roof--the sky is turning so that doesn't help. The rear seat takes longer than it should because, well, sometimes Volvo plastic clips are like welds.

We finally get the rear seat pulled and pull on the little cable. Nothing happens. Cylinders won't move...

Anyhow, we're on the street and the sky is almost black so I look at the cylinders and notice that they're held by little clips. I tell him I can close the thing. And he says just do it. I pull the clips and like that, we are able to close the roof.

He researches what it costs to repair the roof. And almost immediately goes to car dealers. They're offering $300 for the car! So anyway, he gives it to me for a song because he needs the plates and wants to get a new car already. Coming from a 98 S70, boy is this different!

The car is 140K, AT, hasn't really been driven too hard (a few long-range trips to Miami), still runs great. And, best of all, has A/C which my wife has been asking for.

Anyhow, is it possible to turn this into a coupe without error messages? Also, yes, I know I have to get my VIDA up and running (Actually working on that right now: Just installed an SSD into an old HP laptop, updating a clean install of Win7Pro 64-bit and, ordered a new battery off of eBay.) But the first thing I'd like to do is make sure I can lock that roof down without an error message (the car needs to be inspected soon).

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 23 Jun 2019, 12:40

Update, an 8mm (or 6mm?) hex screw into the front of the manual roof (above the rearview mirror) and a 4mm hex through the truck access point located above the rear seats (using at least 40inches of extensions) and wa-lah, roof is locked and error message is gone...

Post by **jimmy57** » 23 Jun 2019, 13:13

That top system is designed to close when it won't open. The override doesn't happen unless you depress brake pedal and then hold the switch in close position for over 10 seconds. If you let go of switch it takes another 10 second before it goes again. Latching those latches did some of the latching but I would imagine the top is not very rigid as a pair of cylinders on the rigid mid section are rsponsible for lifting the front section and lowering it and then they move another inch or do and lack the mid to front and mid to rear sections. Another pair on the frame in quarter panels latch the back section to that frame. VIDA read out of the top system codes would be great, if it has codes. VIDA has a great fault tracing section under "Symptom Based Fault Tracing" that will let you find the cause by comparing where it stops and using the sensor and switch actual readout to the desired info. There are many magnetic "switches" that can get some loose steel item stuck to them and they indicate the switch is active when it should not be. The top stops when it gets to a position and a switch status is checked to see if it is safe to continue operation. These out of line switch positions are not programmed to set a fault code in all cases.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 23 Jun 2019, 13:43

jimmy57 wrote: ↑23 Jun 2019, 13:13 That top system is designed to close when it won't open. The override doesn't happen unless you depress brake pedal and then hold the switch in close position for over 10 seconds. If you let go of switch it takes another 10 second before it goes again. Latching those latches did some of the latching but I would imagine the top is not very rigid as a pair of cylinders on the rigid mid section are rsponsible for lifting the front section and lowering it and then they move another inch or do and lack the mid to front and mid to rear sections. Another pair on the frame in quarter panels latch the back section to that frame. VIDA read out of the top system codes would be great, if it has codes. VIDA has a great fault tracing section under "Symptom Based Fault Tracing" that will let you find the cause by comparing where it stops and using the sensor and switch actual readout to the desired info. There are many magnetic "switches" that can get some loose steel item stuck to them and they indicate the switch is active when it should not be. The top stops when it gets to a position and a switch status is checked to see if it is safe to continue operation. These out of line switch positions are not programmed to set a fault code in all cases.

Hi Jimmy, thanks for the response. The two allens got rid of the error message and the chime. The roof feels sort of solid. Are there ways to manually lock the cylinders on the midsections? The headliner is pretty saggy (all of the clips and retainers need to be redone). I'm wondering if there's something to "lock" up there.

These cars are insane!

Post by **jimmy57** » 23 Jun 2019, 16:49

The headliner sides on the midsection cover the front lift/lock cylinders. At the front you will see the end of those cylinders have a skeleton key hole shape. Push those to the rear. They engage and push a lock pawl for back end of front section and a rod goes to the rear of panel into a bracket and pushes a tapered pin into a bracket on the front of back roof/glass section.

The lock pawls for back end of the roof/glass section are at front of trunk lid area when you raise trunk lid. They are tough to reach. If the front edge of trunk lid is not latched down (the clam shell opening feature where trunk lid front lifts hinged at rear for top to fold into truck) then the lid can be lifted at front and those two roof/gass latches cn be pried with a long screwdriver there to secure top to body. All thses latches have to be locked for the top to go back to work when fixed. There are the magnetic switches (Hall sensors) that sense these being latched (on the left side for everything but the larch pawls at roof header).

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 24 Jun 2019, 16:47

Ok, will give this all a go!

Is it common practice to pull the fuse for these things (just to prevent an erroneous button press)? I found the 30AMP fuse yesterday. I pulled it to inspect it and, of course, it was fine...