Seafoam HowTo Pictorial Followup for P2 Volvos Topic is solved

[matthew1]

Once per summer. So... about 6k miles I'd say.

I consider it maintenance.

[Mikele82]

Can anyone post a picture where would be ideal to put the newer 'seafoam spray' version nozzle for a 2004 xc70 ?

[Georgeandkira]

I didn't read Matthew's original post.
Is this done to a cold, warm or hot engine?

Has anyone seen any before & after pics of this process?

I'm interested in doing this because I believe my car, a 2007 V70 base, while well cared for, was a local family hauler in hot, humid Washington, D.C. and likely has deposits of every kind.

[matthew1]

Engine temperature... I've never considered this, but warm or hot would be best I suppose.

This would probably make an MPG difference in your 2007.

[hmsky83]

This post is simply an extension to Matthew's great How To Seafoam your Volvo. The following describes only the steps required for the intake stage using the brake booster vacuum line on the 2.4 S60. I was unable to find the vacuum tree mentioned in Matthew's post, either this cars don't have one or it looks significantly different. The following is a pictorial for Seafoam'ing the intake on a 2.4 S60. Read Matthew's post first for full directions and heed any warnings.

Before starting you'll need a 3/8 inch inner diameter (3/8 ID) hose and a funnel with a small spout like a transmission funnel. Connect the hose to the end of the funnel.

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Most common location to Seafoam is via the brake booster line, on the S60 its PITA to get to. The brake booster is the big black round thing connected to the firewall inside the engine compartment in front of the driver. Follow the brake booster vacuum line around under the intake box to where it enters the manifolds. Notice the green clip in the picture, this is the opposite end of the brake booster vacuum line, just before it enters the manifold.

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Next using pliers slide back the green clip and disconnect the line. I found using a screw driver to help loosing the line makes the job much easier. Try disconnecting the line slowly to allow time for the vacuum to decrease. There will be a hissing noise when you discount the line. Now connect the hose and funnel where you discounted the brake booster vacuum line.

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Almost done. Now have you wife or even better a buddy start the car. The car will tend to stall with the line discounted so you need to keep the rpm's around 2K. You should hear a loud hissing noise from the funnel. Now SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY pour 1/3 to 1/2 of the Seafoam into the funnel. Don't let the Seafoam pool in the hose, the vacuum should prevent this. But to avoid this issues all together don't create any low spot in the funnel hose.

After pouring SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY 1/3 to 1/2 the Seafoam turn the car off and let it sit for 5 to 15 minutes. Now without the neighbors seeing start the car and drive it around until it stops burning white smoke.

Again read Matthew's original post first! Good luck and don't destroy your engine.

Is it okay if we spray the new seafoam top engine cleaner (black cap can) using your method through the brake booster vacuum line ?? It comes with a spray nozel and insert ? Thanks in advance

[hmsky83]

If anyone is wondering, YES I had success in using the NEW SeaFoam spray can with with the original posters method....that is through the brake booster line shown in the picture. Simpily follow all his instructions and instead of using the old liquid SeaFoam use the new spray can. I put the tube inside the break booster line and sprayed it in bursts until the can was finished while the wife was trying her best to keep the car revved at 2000 rpm.

Keep in mind it will be somewhat difficult to hold the gas pedal steady as the vacuum line will make it difficult. Man oh man the white smoke that came out. Wow !!! After hot soaking it 15 minutes took it for a 20 minute drive on the highway.

The car does run smoother but looks like I will have to some how get that upside down throttle body, buried under the manifold, out to clean it properly to solve the cars idling issue. It's still idling rough.

This after I bought it and pretty much did all this work within the first 3 weeks I've owned it all at home. Thanks to the coronavirus LoL.

-Replaced old plugs with Volvo original plugs
- Replaced all coil packs
- Cleaned MAF
- New Air Filter
- New Fuel Filter
- Immediately changed oil (5w30) Synthetic High Mileage.
- All new motor and transmission mounts.
- passenger side spring seat and strut mount.
- Subframe poly inserts.
- Blower Fan replaced.
- New dipstick, oil cap seal, and cabin filter.
- New wiper blades.

Believe it or not still needs some suggestions work and an alignment along with a timing belt job and this car will be amazing. Good thing I got if for cheap and did the work myself, otherwise I'd be broke.

[Xc702007]

Hi,

I'm a little bit late to the party but does somebody know if it's safe to use the marked line instead of the brake vacuum line? It's basically the other end of the T-tail and it goes "directly" (through some portion of the cooled intake manifold) to the throttle body which is upside down. I used the brake vac line before but nothing really happened...not even smoke or so.

Thanks

[kallekula]

What’s it used for? Cleaning valves and pistons? What is the wanted/expected result of doing this??