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LR rotor is scraping on rotation ('94 855T)

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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BlackBart
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Re: LR rotor is scraping on rotation ('94 855T)

Post by BlackBart »

Oh, here's an $80 no-brand reman at ipd...
Photo shows an Ate part.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7312/11 ... gLRjfD_BwE
ex-1984 245T wagon
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JimBee
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Post by JimBee »

I bought a couple of 850 rear caliper rebuild kits for ~ $11.00 each. If you're going to order a reman, you could check with Rock Auto, e.g, the following:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/vol ... liper,1704

What I might do. If I had a little extra time, (wearing protective lenses, of course, when anything in that system is pressurized) I'd pull the pad from that side, maybe slip a thin piece of wood in that space to protect the rotor then put some significant pressure on the brake pedal to see if the stuck piston will pop out. It might just be somehow frozen to the rubber seal. If the piston isn't pitted, I'd try to clean up the seal groove and replace the seal, lube it up good with the right stuff made for caliper reassembly and try to reuse it. If it works, you've got an extra one for inventory or return it.

Hint from a local rebuilder: Even if a piston looks shiny, there will be some film on it. Soak it overnight in 90% denatured alcohol before reinstalling.

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Post by abscate »

BlackBart wrote: 07 Sep 2019, 19:56 Oh, here's an $80 no-brand reman at ipd...
Photo shows an Ate part.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7312/11 ... gLRjfD_BwE
Text on rebuilt calipers
Rebuilt units are completely dis-assembled, cleaned, examined and tested for their failure points before re-assembly with new parts and sold as "Rebuilt".

The theory that "rebuilt parts" are just going to fail, is false. When a product is rebuilt it is torn apart and examined for their failure points, cleaned, and often rebuilt with new and improved parts to ensure that the next phase of that parts life is a more successful one.

Rebuilt products will help you save time and often money when it comes to finding these usually rare or out of production parts.

We strongly believe in the rebuilt process and product result. We feel confident in selling these products for you and your Volvo!
In my experience, the rebuilders use pot metal for the pistons and sliders. Unless they identify the rebuilder and attest to the use of good parts, I would assume a short lifetime on these. The pot metal piston on my rear V70 caliper froze solid before the brake fluid charge interval of 24 months occurred!
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Post by BlackBart »

I believe that's the very text I read on Nugeon calipers. They were US-built until economics caused them to move to Mexico. Their video of their process seems sound. (in 2013)



I note he says 50% of pistons don't pass - so, as you said, which ones go back in?
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
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Post by BlackBart »

JimBee wrote: 07 Sep 2019, 20:34 If you're going to order a reman, you could check with Rock Auto, e.g, the following:.....
I saw that Nugeon price of $74 and thought, ok, can't beat the $68 at Pelican.....but that's the total price with core included. Yow. It's only $40. I haven't bought anything from Rock Auto in 10 years, hmm.
ex-1984 245T wagon
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2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

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Post by abscate »

If you are running the car for more than a year, go Volvo or at least FCP

The last screaming smoking stop on I90 inBoston , courtesy of a guy with no brake lights, convinced me to stay new OEM on Brake parts
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Post by JimBee »

Aside from piston quality, I think the most vulnerable part to fail on an oem rear caliper is the seal groove. If the dust boot fails, even leaks a tiny bit, moisture can get in there and cause some rust to build. The bore isn't that critical; the seal takes care of holding in the fluid around the piston. But dust boot leakage of ambient moisture seeping around the groove side of the seal can cause a leak there. Before I would turn in an ATE I definitely would pull the piston(s) to see if they're reusable. The Centric kits come with the two o-rings that go between the two halves.

If you rebuild one, you can use a Dremel or similar tool with a brass wire wheel to clean out the groove, then flush it with some brake cleaner.

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Post by abscate »

Do you guys rebuild these and hone the caliper cylinder? I’ve done that years ago with wheel cylinders but’s never had luck with disc calipers. You definitely need new Orings if you break thecaliper open.
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