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Brake system questions Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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FireFox31
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Brake system questions

Post by FireFox31 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 9:50 pm

While overhauling my 2000 V70 braking system, I have the following questions:

Is it necessary to smooth out the front caliper brackets so that the brake pads slide smoothly on them? If so, what's the best way?

When measuring brake fluid pressure with a gauge at the caliper hoses, what pressures should be getting at the front and rear brake lines?

Do I really need new bolts for the front caliper bracket after replacing the rotor? Or do the old ones simply need threadlock when reused?

Thanks. This will help me get my V70 back on the road after waiting a year for me to handle this overhaul.


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Re: Brake system questions  Topic is solved

Post by abscate » Sat Oct 05, 2019 3:49 am

Is it necessary to smooth out the front caliper brackets so that the brake pads slide smoothly on them? If so, what's the best way?

Every brake job, required. Wire brush the hell outof the metal, if it’s pitted use a file to knock down the high spots , and make sure the ears in the pads slide smoothly over the calipervracket. Then grease them , keeping grease away from the braking surfaces.

When measuring brake fluid pressure with a gauge at the caliper hoses, what pressures should be getting at the front and rear brake lines?

I’ll check all data to see if there is data there , see next post

Do I really need new bolts for the front caliper bracket after replacing the rotor? Or do the old ones simply need threadlock when reused?

Now that I get Volvo stuff they come with new bolts. I’ve reused the old bolts with anti seize and experience torque and never had a problem,but this is not factory procedure.

I’ve got spare slides and bolts that would fit in a small USPS box I think.
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Re: Brake system questions

Post by abscate » Sat Oct 05, 2019 4:03 am

I’ve got nothing on brake pressures.

Get new fluid into the reservoir, and get the bleeders open on one wheel,it should take about three sets of 15 pumps to push all the old fluid out. If that’s about right, don’t worry about the pressure. Volvo hydraulics are really good and esoteric failures are as rare as hens teeth.

Link to my caliper rebuild here ...


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Re: Brake system questions

Post by S60UT » Sat Oct 05, 2019 9:28 am

please post that caliper rebuild link. Im pretty sure im getting due for this, pad is hanging up and i can hear squealing around turns and when pedal lightly depsressed


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Re: Brake system questions

Post by jimmy57 » Sat Oct 05, 2019 10:32 am

How are you measuring brake pressure?



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Re: Brake system questions

Post by abscate » Sat Oct 05, 2019 3:40 pm

abscate wrote:
Sat Oct 05, 2019 4:03 am
I’ve got nothing on brake pressures.

Get new fluid into the reservoir, and get the bleeders open on one wheel,it should take about three sets of 15 pumps to push all the old fluid out. If that’s about right, don’t worry about the pressure. Volvo hydraulics are really good and esoteric failures are as rare as hens teeth.

Link to my caliper rebuild here ...
Sorry. It’s a replace thread , not rebuild. Very few have the right tools for a caliper rebuild , and I’m not sure the seals are available either


viewtopic.php?f=1&t=57155&p=289371&hili ... t5#p289371


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Re: Brake system questions

Post by jimmy57 » Sat Oct 05, 2019 6:16 pm

Rebuilding calipers is very easy if you can get kits if the calipers aren't rust heaps. If your S70 is a Utah car it's whole life you should be OK. Texas cars are usually clean and can be rebuilt. I think RockAuto still has them for P80 and P2. Depress brake pedal and keep it depressed with a piece of PVC pipe, old broom handle etc. cut to the length where you can slide seat forward with pedal depressor between lower cushion front edge and brake pedal. Pushed a little more than an inch is enough to close the master cylinder fill ports and keep the res from draining and creating HUGE bleeding problems and a dripping brake fluid mess. Remove calipers. Dig off the dust boot with pick and small screwdriver. You need a piece of 3/4 plywood to place in caliper as a piston stop. Use air blower and push piston out. Use lower pressure or light trigger and keep hands clear as piston can pop with a bit of force. If the piston sides are ok and there is no serious piston dust seal corrosion that will prevent it from sealing then keep going. The bore in caliper is not functional and only guides caliper. The important area is the seal groove. Once you dig that out with pick or screwdriver inspect that area to see that no rust has damaged that area that will prevent sealing. Clean piston and caliper body and dry. Install seal in caliper and then lubricate the piston with silicon spray lube or with a light coating of silicone grease. They sell those packets of silicone grease at all the parts stores but you want the one that specifically states silicone since it is OK with brake rubber and fluid. Lubrication makes installing the piston possible by hand. Once you have the piston all the way in bore then you can lube the seal and push over piston and push into rim of caliper. Twisting the piston can be necessary to get piston into caliper.



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Re: Brake system questions

Post by S60UT » Sat Oct 05, 2019 6:41 pm

10-4, i will give it go and report back, Pretty sure its been a Utah car all its life. Not a speck of rust anywhere on this car, Im originally from Chicago and loving the ability to break bolts without stripping/snapping heads or torx bits


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Re: Brake system questions

Post by abscate » Sun Oct 06, 2019 5:06 am

I’ve a great rebuilder in CT. I buy a new one, send back an old one, and they give me my money back.


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Re: Brake system questions

Post by FireFox31 » Mon Oct 07, 2019 9:37 am

jimmy57 wrote:
Sat Oct 05, 2019 10:32 am
How are you measuring brake pressure?
I will use the SSBC A1704 Brake Pressure Gauge Kit. I haven't used it yet, but apparently it works great. Check YouTube for usage videos, including tips to minimize air in the gauge. Also note that, according to reviews, the plastic face of the dial gets corroded by brake fluid (bad design choice) so be very careful with it.

Hopefully this will answer the question of why my rear calipers haven't been clamping down on the rotors for the past 3-4 years.
S60UT wrote:
Sat Oct 05, 2019 9:28 am
please post that caliper rebuild link. Im pretty sure im getting due for this, pad is hanging up and i can hear squealing around turns and when pedal lightly depsressed
See the caliper rebuild tutorial by CN90. It matches what jimmy57 said above, but with pictures. I took apart my front caliper and you won't believe what I found. After reassembling it with the old (yet intact) seal, the seal popped off as soon as I depressed the brake pedal. I had to take it apart and reassemble it again. I haven't checked to see if the seal came off again, but I will report back if it did. Then again, I was working with a pretty rusty caliper, so it may have been doomed to fail.

FCP Euro has caliper seal kits available for your car, filed under Break Calipers.
For my 2000 V70, there are FTE brand front seals, Volvo front seals, and ATE brand rear seals.
abscate wrote:
Sun Oct 06, 2019 5:06 am
I’ve a great rebuilder in CT. I buy a new one, send back an old one, and they give me my money back.
Can you post or PM me their contact info? I'd like to ask if they would buy a caliper core from me. I'm buying a new front caliper from FCP and they don't want my core back. (Hopefully that means the caliper I'm getting is brand new and not rebuilt, but I doubt it).
Last edited by FireFox31 on Mon Oct 07, 2019 9:59 am, edited 2 times in total.


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