99' S70 interior light problem, how to troubleshoot?

[abscate]

I re--read your symptoms, Dirk, and all may not be lost.

On a 1999, the dome light is logic controlled by all sorts of inputs, so lights coming on when you toggle the overhead switch to door, even when you are in the car with doors closed might be ok.

Being as OCD as I am, I had to run out and test.

CAR locked overnight
FOB pressed, dome light comes ON
Sat down, locked with FOB - light goes OFF immediately
Open door, LIGHT ON
Close door , LIGHT OFF after 32 second delay
OPEN CLOSE driver door - light ON, OFF after 32 seconds
OPEN CLOSE REAR DOOR - light ON, OFF after 32 second delay
Toggle switch between O and DOOR - no lights ON

[shegarty]

Couldn't it be just the microswitch in one of the door mechanism getting stuck ? And then somehow got unstuck so the lights stays on while the doors are closed

This happened in my 98 S70 as well, but only with the passenger door. I put it down to a lack of use and dirt and crud messing with the switch. It got to the point where I had to remove the marker light in the footwell also. When I finally had time to get around to it I gave the latch a thorough cleaning with some brake cleaner and an old toothbrush and then lubed it up again with some teflon dry lube to hopefully avoid attracting dirt in the future. 3 months later it still seems to be functioning properly.

[850 LPT]

I re--read your symptoms, Dirk, and all may not be lost.

On a 1999, the dome light is logic controlled by all sorts of inputs, so lights coming on when you toggle the overhead switch to door, even when you are in the car with doors closed might be ok.

Being as OCD as I am, I had to run out and test.

CAR locked overnight
FOB pressed, dome light comes ON
Sat down, locked with FOB - light goes OFF immediately
Open door, LIGHT ON
Close door , LIGHT OFF after 32 second delay
OPEN CLOSE driver door - light ON, OFF after 32 seconds
OPEN CLOSE REAR DOOR - light ON, OFF after 32 second delay
Toggle switch between O and DOOR - no lights ON

Funny, this morning I read your post about Evitas door lock problem and the battery drain. My car (Noddie) has almost the exact same problems, but they seem to be intermittent. So I went out and started investigating.
Of course, today the door locks are working fine, go figure.

Symptom summary:

- parasite drain. if parked, the battery will be drained completely after about a week. I have yet to confirm the circuit, but I wouldn't be one bit surprised if it's the same as Evitas.

- Interior lights will sometimes not shut off after doors are closed and will drain the battery. I have not tried if this is also true when I lock the door in addition to closing it.

- the kick panel lights have been removed by PO. I am guessing they don't shut off after closing the door, but have to install them to confirm.

- sometimes the door locks don't work when pushing the switch on the door panel (I don't have a fob).

[850 LPT]

Couldn't it be just the microswitch in one of the door mechanism getting stuck ? And then somehow got unstuck so the lights stays on while the doors are closed

This happened in my 98 S70 as well, but only with the passenger door. I put it down to a lack of use and dirt and crud messing with the switch. It got to the point where I had to remove the marker light in the footwell also. When I finally had time to get around to it I gave the latch a thorough cleaning with some brake cleaner and an old toothbrush and then lubed it up again with some teflon dry lube to hopefully avoid attracting dirt in the future. 3 months later it still seems to be functioning properly.

I do wonder if this is a possibility. 98' cars work a little differently, but a switch is a switch.

Will investigate further when time allows.

Thanks!

[abscate]

I think I we are both suffering from hyperactive 2/76 , lock controller


My drain was eliminated by pulling either 11C/6 or 11/A7

[850 LPT]

I think I we are both suffering from hyperactive 2/76 , lock controller


My drain was eliminated by pulling either 11C/6 or 11/A7

How hard is it to replace the lock controller?

[abscate]

Two plugs and it unclips from a bracket under the dash

Replacing it did not solve my problem

[abscate]

Just realized

sometimes the door locks don't work when pushing the switch on the door panel (I don't have a fob).

I have the same thing going on with Evita. If you energize the light circuit by moving the switch to the door position, the locks start working with the switch. This fix is “ sticky” , too, putting the switch back to 0 will not kill the lock switch function.

This system does make one yearn for the days of the 12V wire to the dome lamp with a grounded wire running to each door switch on my 1954 VW

[850 LPT]

Just realized

sometimes the door locks don't work when pushing the switch on the door panel (I don't have a fob).

I have the same thing going on with Evita. If you energize the light circuit by moving the switch to the door position, the locks start working with the switch. This fix is “ sticky” , too, putting the switch back to 0 will not kill the lock switch function.

This system does make one yearn for the days of the 12V wire to the dome lamp with a grounded wire running to each door switch on my 1954 VW

Believe it or not, I was actually thinking of re- wiring the whole damn interior light system. I am planning to replace my headliner very soon and then it would be fairly easy to do if I could figure out what input to use. Maybe the door open warning lights?
I have to figure out a way if they still work properly. I wouldn't have the delay function, but I don't really care about that.

[abscate]

You have got to be kidding me.....

I just read through Steve's post, and I feel totally defeated already. Since I'm not nearly as smart as Steve I think I am just going to give up.

And buy a Honda.

Steve has had some real idiot moments but I think Im going to take the Corona weeks and finally solve this thing - its all about the commitment.