To strut or not to strut

Post by **GlennG2759** » 18 Oct 2019, 09:25

'06 V70 102k miles. I hit one our famous New York State pot holes couple of days ago and have noticed excessive noise in the right front wheel over irregularities in the road. i jacked the car up, no 12/6 o'clock play, very very minimal 3/9 play. Removed the top strut caps and checked nut tightness, got about 90 degrees of turn tension then when released returned to back to original position. I thought I'd try one more time with a little more muscle. Drivers side same, right side something popped and now have 360 degrees of turn, I assume the metal sleeve separated from spring seat. another thing I noticed was rubbing marks on the inner fender well. Question is whether to just do the spring seats and mounts or do a new strut rebuild. Can I expect another 20 or 30k out of these original Volvo struts. Bounce test seemed normal. Any opinions or input greatly appreciated. THANKS, Glenn.

Post by **oragex** » 18 Oct 2019, 11:03

That would be early for the spring eat at 100k miles, but depends how bad are the roads indeed. Try turning the nut with the wheels on ground, don't too much. But better look under the top plate, this is how it looks when it's pretty badly cracked but not completely failed www.youtube.com/watch?v=kj4JmZS2yM4

Spring seat off Fcpeuro - get only Sachs or Rein/CRP

Keep the mounts (strut bearing plate) because they last usually forever unless they get eaten by rust - surface rust is ok. Replacement ones are questionable as of now, only safe option is genuine ($$$)

As for the struts, here's goes: if the ride is not harsh to your liking, don't replace them. Replacements are not same quality, Sachs included. If you replace them, buy genuine ones - on Fcp they are barely more expensive than aftermarket ones. I don't recommend quick struts

In my opinion, you should be good with only spring seats

3/9 play may mean end link wear - usually the outer one . Lemforder is a good brand, better not trying to save a few coins with cheaper brands. May also test the end links while there, grab them and shake at the top/lower end

Rubbing marks from tires is normal on these cars

Post by **GlennG2759** » 18 Oct 2019, 11:16

I turned the strut top nuts with wheels off the ground. Endlinks were recently replaced. Sounds like just spring seats might be the most economical way to go now. How about the inner hardware (bellows, bump stops). When you say 3/9 wear are you talking tie rod ends. Orangex, thank you for you advice and videos.

Post by **oragex** » 18 Oct 2019, 13:12

That would simply cause the wheels to rotate a little bit. A better way is with the wheels down, should not be able to really rotate the nut/top plate unless the sleeve is really detached. The bellows break indeed at the bump stop, may well replace them along.

Yes, the 3-9 o'clock it's related to the tie rod ends. Actually I prefer testing all these connecting items with the wheel just fully turned, grab everything strongly with one hand, and try moving with force near each connecting ball joint - this works for the tie rod ends and for the inner tie rod - the protecting boots may also tear or crack. Yours being a 2006, you will need the tie rod ends or inner ones for the ZF rack (2004+)

For the ball joint, it's better to grab the wheel lifted, at 6-12 and feel for play at the lower end. Usually the original ball joints last long time on the S60.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Oct 2019, 13:49

Just do the seats. Ive got the spring compressor 30 minutes North of you next time you are through.

Post by **- Pete -** » 18 Oct 2019, 16:41

Spring seats like the others pointed to.

One time I had an abnormal & random steering pull. It turned out one of the tie rod ends (original & unmolested by me) nut had loosened just a couple threads. Just saying check that nut before you go ordering tie rod ends. (Edit: not the jam nut, the one that goes on the ball joint stud)

I was also gonna say check that front bushing in the lower control arms. A stout hit from a pothole could be enough to finish destroying what was holding it together. Check it by wedging your pry bar between it & the subframe.

Post by **oragex** » 18 Oct 2019, 18:47

May find a few tips for this job here (no need to strip everything). Strut bolts need a 21mm socket (or the imp socket I used). Careful not to pull on the ABS wire even just slightly - I rather remove it by prying with a flat screwdriver from underneath. Measure the camber adjustment beforehand. At the end of the video I'm compressing the spring. The strut assy goes back from behind the hub, from the end link side. www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxC9Ek9HhGI