2001 s80 strut strut mount and bearing replacment

[loball86]

im replacing the struts strut mounts and bearings this weekend but all my tools are at work just want to bring home the ones i need dose anyone have a right up of what tools ill need to do the jobs? thanks guys

[Frank Drebin]

I actually did this earlier this week, so hopefully I'll remember all the tools I used.

For reference I have loaned this picture from Volvo Parts Webstore:


I used both wrenches and an impact driver with sockets, so if I'm not specific you can choose what you want to use. I'm uncertain about some of the tools, so I'll list the ones I think I used.

• Nut 10 and bolt 11 on the picture above needs 18 and 21 mm wrenches/sockets.
• Nut 17 needs 18 mm wrench and a T30/T40/T45 (uncertain) torx to counter-hold the pin on 16. I used a sturdy torx bit and a ratchet.
• You'll need a set of spring compressors, on mine I used a 21 mm socket to tighten/loosen
• A bit uncertain about nut 4, but I could see in my socket set that 17 and 19 mm had been used recently, so perhaps one of those
• On nut 3 I used this tool and my largest adjustable wrench, but if you don't have time to buy it, maybe you can use a wrench? You'll also need to counter-hold the strut itself with one of the torx mentioned above both for nut 3 and nut 1.
• Not certain about nut 1, but it was one of the sizes mentioned above. You'll need a wrench for this because of the need for counter-holding the strut.
• I also unscrewed the ABS sensor from the steering knuckle using a 10 or 11 mm socket. I guess this is optional, but I didn't want to risk breaking the sensor cable

Hopefully I haven't forgotten anything, but maybe you should bring a few adjustable wrenches just in case

Good luck!

[loball86]

thanks a million man u rock

[Calico]

just completed this fix on a 1999 S80 and wanted to jot down my notes before i forgot

- Nut 17 needed a 18mm box wrench and T40 torx to prevent killing the tie rod ball joint. my replacement was a meyle part, used same torx
- Nut 4 is 13mm
- Nut 3 is a POS - needed lots of PBlaster + vice grips + brand new T45 torx to stop the Sachs strut from spinning. other side came off with a pair of bent needle nose pliers. I wish i had bought the strut tool!!
- Nut 1 is 21mm, same as 10.

- while you are in there, you should replace #7 (bump stop). it is cheap, and mine was rotten.
- part 9 is cheap so consider replacing again
- IPD sells a rebiuld kit including parts 1, 2, 3, 4(3), 8. 10(2), 11(2) IPD#124947 really recommend this. this made the whole thing easier.
- Threadlocker Red for 10/11. i also used threadlocker red for 17
- i did not remove the rotor, caliper, abs, but i did move the ABS wire around and under the strut for install/removal - PBlaster or WD40 helps with moving the wire strain relief.
- watch the brake line.

I could not have completed this job without
- PBlaster
- two 1/2" breaker bars
- 21mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 18mm box wrench (non ratcheting type - the bracket that holds to the tie rod is tight)
- vice grips (see above)
- more PBlaster
- T40 socket
- T45 socket

[ThommyKent]

My experience with nut 3 is it comes off easily with a hammer and punch hitting the ears. But since you are trying to just grab the right tools it probably wont because that`s the way life is......lol. Also some part 16's do not have a tork to stop it from turning but have 2 flats to slip a very thin wrench on to when removing nuts 17 and 18. You will need the longish breaker to move part 20's end up or down to get part 16's end in the hole.