2000 Volvo C70 HT 2.3 TDC

Post by **subzerocarfanatic** » 21 Oct 2019, 16:43

I have not resolved my issues yet and haven't received any responses here on the forum yet, can anyone direct me where someone might be able to help me please.
I tested the MAF wiring harness today and I do not seem to be getting any voltage reading to any of the wires in the harness plug for the MAF, can anyone please give me some ideas what may cause this, I ordered a new OEM MAF sensor today, I seem to keep getting the same codes and have gotten no suggestions on what might be the cause of those either. P0121 and P0102, I posted what the meaning of both codes in my previous posting. I would greatly appreciate any help, tips or advice from some veteran volvo fanatics on here. ) I did replace the 4 B+ cables going from fuse box junction to battery with a heavier 4 gauge one and soldered the end that goes on the fuse box., cleaned MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner and the connection to it.

Post by **abscate** » 21 Oct 2019, 20:00

In your other post you wrote your battery was at 11.9 Volts

That’s dead. Charge and/ or replace

Post by **subzerocarfanatic** » 22 Oct 2019, 11:25

What could be draining my battery down, they won't honor the warranty because they say it is still good when it shows 11.9 volts and most times its lower than that, that is after me charging it for an hour on 12 volt high on my shop charger. I replaced the B+ cable with a 4 gauge wire and soldered the old 90* eyelet that attaches to the fuse box back on after cleaning it and the other end that connects to battery positive cable.It is an interstate battery with 2 year free replacement only a year old as of this month. How can i check to see what might be drawing it down, i will have a test done on my alternator today then go from there. Any help appreciated!

Post by **abscate** » 22 Oct 2019, 12:42

It needs to be charged for 24 hours at 4-6 amp hour rating charger to reach full charge.

11.9 is a discharged battery, so they are right to not warranty it unless it won't hold charge after the above.

You can't fully charge a 80 A hr lead acid battery in an hour.

Post by **subzerocarfanatic** » 22 Oct 2019, 12:46

It has been charged, previously. I will try your suggestion and get back to you.Thank you for your time. I forgot to mention, the interstate battery i have in the car is not rated at 80Ah either, it's only rated at 54. thanks

Post by **subzerocarfanatic** » 26 Oct 2019, 18:16

I charged the battery like you suggested, now it's holding 12.6 volts or so without the car running, i cranked it and it was well over 13 volts while car running. Any suggestions on my MAF issues, i just posted a new post today about it.

Post by **misha** » 28 Oct 2019, 00:08

54Ah battery is too weak for the car...it would suit to engines around 1.6-1.8L.
You need at least 68ah but with corresponding cca(cold cranking amps).
I always buy 72-74ah battery when i need replacement.
Last time i found one with 80ah with pretty high cca rating.
It's in the car for 4+ years and still cranking like new.
Also....brand new battery have the shelf life which is 6-12months from manufacture date.
Every battery have the manufacture date stamped on it.

Post by **subzerocarfanatic** » 28 Oct 2019, 08:54

It's an interstate battery and the one that was recommended though i would have to agree it seems a bit weak, especially in the winter, it gets cold here at almost 7000 Elevation. I want to buy a group 48 i believe it is though a 46 is suggested, i see others have used it for my make and model.

Post by **subzerocarfanatic** » 28 Oct 2019, 08:57

Can anyone recommend a really good AGM battery for my 2000 C70 HT? A H6 instead of H5 preferably.

Post by **abscate** » 28 Oct 2019, 09:53

If you have good 12.6V lets leave the battery alone for now, and find where your 12V is getting lost (other thread)

Misha is used to those cold Siberian winters where Huskies huddle under your car to warm it up.