Volvo Findings! (What have you found on FB/Craiglist/Kijiii/other)?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 26 Oct 2019, 16:06

Well, I can swap a strut assembly out in about 10-15 minutes. Maybe not 5 total. 5 to get it out, sure.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 26 Oct 2019, 17:26

erikv11 wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 09:05
MoVolvos wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 02:17 ... Quick In & Out. Only 5 minutes ...

Jason of FCP did their Quick Struts in less than 5 minutes

. See, here again.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 26 Oct 2019, 17:30

bmdubya1198 wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 16:06 Well, I can swap a strut assembly out in about 10-15 minutes. Maybe not 5 total. 5 to get it out, sure.

All the time is spent getting the car safely on jacks, breaking out the tools or lubing the air tool and taking off the tires.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 26 Oct 2019, 17:38

MoVolvos wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 17:30
All the time is spent getting the car safely on jacks, breaking out the tools or lubing the air tool and taking off the tires.

Yup, it takes me longer to get the car on jack stands than to pull the strut!

Post by **erikv11** » 26 Oct 2019, 18:42

Jacking up the car, removing the wheel, putting the car back together, all of that is part of a strut swap.

MoVolvos wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 17:26
erikv11 wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 09:05
MoVolvos wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 02:17 ... Quick In & Out. Only 5 minutes ...

Jason of FCP did their Quick Struts in less than 5 minutes . See, here again.

And the FCP video for the PCV job is 18:38 minutes long. But if someone asks I'll recommend they budget most of a day for it.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 26 Oct 2019, 18:53

erikv11 wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 18:42 Jacking up the car, removing the wheel, putting the car back together, all of that is part of a strut swap.

MoVolvos wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 17:26
erikv11 wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 09:05

Jason of FCP did their Quick Struts in less than 5 minutes . See, here again.

And the FCP video for the PCV job is 18:38 minutes long. But if someone asks I'll recommend they budget most of a day for it.

It took me several days when I purchased my 98 S70 T5.

. And that was following an excellent tutorial here on MVS. And oh, I had to removed the heater core 3 time due to customizing the tubing.

.

They sing The Moon Is A Harsh Mistress, well I think our Volvos...

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 26 Oct 2019, 19:53

erikv11 wrote: 26 Oct 2019, 18:42 And the FCP video for the PCV job is 18:38 minutes long. But if someone asks I'll recommend they budget most of a day for it.

For someone who has never done it, it's best to be safe and give yourself plenty of time. I've done it several times on several P80s, so I can move quickly.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 27 Oct 2019, 18:21

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2005 Volvo V50 AWD, does not run - $2000
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/d/ca ... 58224.html

Went to see this today. 140K miles, 4 very new tires but rear driver's side seems worn. Timing Belt done one time but can't tell date or mileage due to fading.

Owner said was sputtering Dec 2018. Set of 5 plugs, 1 coil pack and was fine for 1K miles till it happened again. This time it would not start but turns over. Owner pushed the car across the street to a shop that didn't seem interested in helping. A week later shop said 3 cylinders are out but did not charge the owner for diagnostics.

Willing to go lower than $1,500? What could be wrong with it if the timing belt is not broken?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 27 Oct 2019, 19:20

I must say, that's outrageously priced for a non runner. $800 car max for that reason alone. I'd start by checking cam timing, make sure everything is lined up and the belt isn't slipping (possibly a failed tensioner?). Then move onto a compression test, if that shows low move to a leak down.
Or it could be a super simple one, and there are just 3 dead coils. But you never mention that while negotiating

Anyway, I'd at least make an offer. T5 AWD P1s are cool, even if they're auto. M66 would be way better, but it's still T5 AWD!

Post by **MoVolvos** » 27 Oct 2019, 20:40

bmdubya1198 wrote: 27 Oct 2019, 19:20
I must say, that's outrageously priced for a non runner. $800 car max for that reason alone. I'd start by checking cam timing, make sure everything is lined up and the belt isn't slipping (possibly a failed tensioner?). Then move onto a compression test, if that shows low move to a leak down.

Would it be worth $800 with bent valves? Seems odd that a set of plugs and one coil (saw the receipt) got it back running and then fail to start after it just started to run rough again.

Not sure why the shop they don't like told him 3 cylinders are shot? Maybe the owner misunderstood?