release cv joint Topic is solved

Post by **cn90** » 22 Oct 2019, 21:08

1. Yes, you need to remove the circlip.
Trick: use a piece of rubber hose (or piece of tire rubber side wall) to clamp the axle.
This prevent the tool from "biting" into the axle steel, not that it matters but it prevents "teeth biting marks".

2. The 36-mm nut.
- Chock both fore and aft parts of one tire to prevent car from rolling.
- Put car to neutral.
- I used to use the 4-foot iron pipe (search forum for my iron pipe tricks), but have since discovered new trick!
It is floor jack trick!!!
This trick is genius...

3. With axle out of the car, it is MUCH easier.

4. Time to replace the ATF seal.
NOTE the EXACT location of the factory seal, usually about 2-3 mm inward of the edge of the Trans bore.
Use your fingernail to note the exact location of the factory seal.
Also take a photo so you know the exact location of the factory seal.
Then install the new Corteco seal using a block of wood.
Then a short section of Plumbing PVC coupler to GENTLY set it in evenly about 2-3 mm from the edge. This step is critical to go SLOW and METHODICAL, otherwise it will leak.

Post by **cn90** » 22 Oct 2019, 21:10

Another trick is go to local shop so they loosen the 36-mm nut for you using air tool.
Pay them $5 for this.
Then gently tighten the nut back.
Drive the car home and do your repair.

vovo850 · Post by **vovo850** » 22 Oct 2019, 21:38

Yea that would be to easy with leaving the axle in. oh well..
Good tips on breaking axle nut loose, I ended up investing in a small battery impact for smaller stuff
and air for bigger stuff. So worth the investment. If you don't have air, electric is a good option.
I debated about it for a while actually, electric is more readily available than air.

Post by **erikv11** » 23 Oct 2019, 00:30

I agree with you about the power/air tools. The cheap corded electric impact has been absolutely 100% for me on breaking free old axle nuts, first time every time, I've done at least a dozen. Well more than that, but a dozen new-to-me crusty old axle nuts. Works better than my air tool.

Thanks cn90 for the info on the circlip with the axle tool.

Post by **abscate** » 23 Oct 2019, 04:19

Well more than that, but a dozen new-to-me crusty old axle nuts

That’s a lot of front wheel bearing repairs.

I just had one go on the E83. That’s six in my fleet. Something in the water? Def3cts in the Driver Near Axle inherent in the species?

Post by **erikv11** » 23 Oct 2019, 08:16

At least all the axle nuts are broken free now, when (if?) the wave of creaky bearings hits. Maybe I'll be safely/fully into P2's by then!

vovo850 · Post by **vovo850** » 03 Nov 2019, 12:10

Kind of a dum question but how do you know with 100% certainity that you have the joint positioned properly when reassembling?
The snap ring moves easily? I believe I have it on proper but thought I would ask the experienced here. Is it normal to have to beat the snot out of it reseat?
Because I did.. Didn't seem right, but I had to beat the snot out of it to get it removed too.. In this situation, that is probably a very good thing..

Oh and that cv removal tool.. I'm not sure how that thing will work on our axles unless I bought the wrong sized tool.
the part that goes over the axle nut appears to need a nut to seat onto and another to lock it in place.
Without something for it to seat against; it goes against up against the gear way past the threaded part where the axle nut screws on. Maybe I'm missing something, I'm definitely not the most sharp pencil in the box.

850oldschool · Post by **850oldschool** » 03 Nov 2019, 13:10

I usually spread the ears of the snap ring with a small screwdriver as I slide the joint back on and it just takes a few light taps. It should slide on easily without the snap ring. If the joint is on all the way the snap ring will rotate easily when you push it with a small screwdriver.

vovo850 · Post by **vovo850** » 03 Nov 2019, 13:20

the snap ring was spread apart when putting back on.
Still had to beat it on like crazy.. hope I didn't cause damage.
But it appears to be closed up now and does rotate easily like it did before removal.
Just hard to see now with the grease in there, don't want to wipe away new grease.
Feels like I have it right..
Thank you.

vovo850 · Post by **vovo850** » 03 Nov 2019, 14:07

Here is another dumb question..
I bought the GKN loebro boot from fcp, went to slide the larger clamp on.
It didn't want to slide over the bump, So I release the hook and went to put it on that way and it's short?

I have no idea how a person is supposed to clamp this on.
The smaller clamp appears like it will fit just fine, I haven't attempted to tighten it yet though. But I can probably pull a hook one more slot over on it. Unlike the larger clamp.

release cv joint Topic is solved

Re: release cv joint