AC Delete 99 S70 N/A - (Seized Compressor) Topic is solved

Post by **smacknab** » 29 Oct 2019, 22:58

Unfortunately I didn't manage any photos, but I'm posting this to confirm that it's possible to delete the AC on a 99 S70 base. It is done by replacing the AC compressor with a bracket and pulley, and sourcing new bolts. The bracket and pulley comes from non AC models (I read it was only sold in Europe without AC) so they have Volvo part numbers (below). However, replacing the AC compressor with the bracket removes about 2.25-2.5 inches of space that old screw needed to travel, so you'll have to find replacements.

Here is a link to a diagram I used:
https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/show ... ct=1102753

Parts numbers:
Bracket: 1270598
Idler roller: 9458470 (I got this for $22 from API in Danvers, MA)
Pulley center screw: 988185
Bolts: I bought three 8x1.25 65mm length bolts with washers (from home Depot but i might replace with proper flange screws)

Links:
Removing drier accumulator
viewtopic.php?t=41084
Accessing Ac Compressor from bottom (w/o removing radiator)
https://www.google.com/amp/s/forums.swe ... -DIY&amp=1
Extra AC delete info
https://www.google.com/amp/s/forums.swe ... lete&amp=1

Job notes:
For the install I came from above since I was replacing my alternator at the same time. I won't do a step by step as I don't recommend doing it this way if there are alternatives. I read somewhere that it's possible to remove the compressor from the bottom without removing the radiator. My reciever-drier-accumulator was in the way and I didn't know how to remove it (edit: added links on how to remove) so I didn't bother, but if you're deleting the AC you should be able to remove that first then you'll have easy access to the compressor. You should look into this method if you really only need to remove the compressor

Summary instructions coming from the top
-have ac system evac'd by a professional
-get car on ramps or Jacks
-prep for the job (remove the plastic shield under the engine, drain radiator, remove serp belt, remove negative battery terminal)
-make space to work (remove top radiator hose, lift coolant reservoir and power steering reservoir, remove air tube and box surrounding ecm)
-disconnect power steering pump from bracket and lift (screws are on the pulley side)
-unplug wires from alternator, unscrew from bracket and remove
-disconnect ac compressor electrical wire and refrigerant tubing (these are hard to access, I think I used a t40)
-remove bottom two ac compressor bolts (easy to get to from below

Installation:
-work backwards but instead installing the no-ac bracket as shown in the diagram from the link.
-make sure to torque before putting the serp belt back on and reassembling the ecm box (lesson learned)

Why not run a shorter belt?
Oh how I wish I could... an AC delete on this model (and up?) can not be accomplished, as far as I know, by running a shorter serp belt. This is due to the one-way alternator that started with the 99 s70 (pointed out to me by a Volvo Indy, confirmed by user Abscate). Running a shorter serp belt will either spin the alternator the wrong way or will get very little purchase on the pulley in other direction.

For some back story, my AC compressor seized so completely that my car wouldn't start. It placed enough resistance on the serpentine belt that the engine couldn't turn over. My research about seized ac compressors led me to believe it would be a bigger job than swapping just the AC compressor and since my car has 205k miles, i didn't want to take on all the cost of doing the job right (even with free labor). The AC delete parts cost me less than $100 (plus $50 to evac the refrigerant in the system, which is a fixed cost) and I needed to replace my alternator anyway so I didn't do all of the work just to out a bracket in.

Thanks for reading and I hope someone finds this useful. This route for dealing with a seized ac compressor cost me just under $100 and the cold air in my car. But saved me spending ~500 on a compressor, condenser, accumulator then having the hoses cleared and refilled. And the peace of mind knowing I'll never have another expensive AC problem.

Follow up questions:
Anyone have any suggestions on what I should/could do with the other parts of my AC system? Should I remove the condenser and accumulator-reciever-drier? Should I just plug up the pressure lines and call it a day? Are there pros/cons to either?

Post by **abscate** » 31 Oct 2019, 02:32

If you think you might want to put AC back in at some point, try to get the AC evacuated.

Get some rubber stoppers that fit in the receiver drier and condenser ports from Lowe’s or Home Depot and drive them in tight

Then ask abscate to meet you for an hour, bringing his vacuum unit to Boston , and pump it down to vacuum

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 31 Oct 2019, 03:20

Belt routeing did change on some models in 1999 but both the old routeing and the new routeing turn the alternator clockwise. Both routes everything turns clockwise except for the idler. As far as I can see the old short belt should work on the new ones. The new route does produce more belt to pulley contact at the alternator. This make be necessary if Volvo switched to a higher power alternator.

This is the older routeing and should work on all White Blocks.
Scored line displays belt routing without air conditioning (A/C).
Short belt (No A/C) is Volvo part number 9458469 for cars -1999.
2000- Volvo part number 30731808.
Yellow = No A/C belt route.
Blue = A/C belt route.

Older routeing.

Newer routeing.

: Auxiliary_Belt_New.gif (25.93 KiB) Viewed 3351 times

Post by **smacknab** » 31 Oct 2019, 04:19

Abscate - thanks for the offer, is this for clearing the lines? Or just to put a vacuum back on the system? I actually come back to Boston Nov 5th, so if you're up for it I'd be happy to meet you somewhere.

Rick - yeah unfortunately I don't have that routing, but thanks for posting for anyone who might have the other routing. I'm actually having a hard time with certain parts on my car that split by chassis number. I.e. I ordered the wrong lower right motor mount and can't find one for my chassis

Post by **abscate** » 31 Oct 2019, 05:06

I’ll pm you with contact info, text best for me

Rhp...that second later routing picture isn’t right, or at least not covering all models

There is no idler pulley on any of the 5 1999s I have dealt with, here is the routing I have in Alldata ( shows a car without AC but path is same)

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 31 Oct 2019, 05:33

abscate wrote: ↑31 Oct 2019, 05:06 Rhp...that second later routing picture isn’t right, or at least not covering all models

I got it sorted out and found your pictures in Vida. My pictures are Turbo charged engines. Your picture is NA engines. The Smacknab has a NA.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Nov 2019, 05:22

I’ve got one of each but they are both off at college at the moment. Can check on TG break.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 03 Nov 2019, 16:36

The path of least resistance in my mind is to grab a replacement compressor from a pick-n-pull. Hooking the lines back up will help to keep the crap out of them.

If it was just the clutch bearing that seized up and the compressor didn't grenade internally then it is really easy to pull a good vacuum and recharge the system.

...Lee

Post by **kallekula** » 03 Nov 2019, 20:14

Ozark Lee wrote: ↑03 Nov 2019, 16:36 The path of least resistance in my mind is to grab a replacement compressor from a pick-n-pull. Hooking the lines back up will help to keep the crap out of them.

If it was just the clutch bearing that seized up and the compressor didn't grenade internally then it is really easy to pull a good vacuum and recharge the system.

...Lee

Word

Post by **smacknab** » 30 Dec 2019, 08:47

Update: i'm not sure if other people with these cars have fogging issues, but without AC I'm having a heck of a time managing the fogging on the window. I will likely put AC back in the car in the spring/summer