questions about estimate for broken front coil spring

[enotslim]

After viewing on jack stands I see that the spring broke near the perch. The upper portion slid around the perch with one loop now resting on the wheel. The next lower loop barely overlaps the knuckle. I don't think it will hold if the wheel is removed meaning the spring would descend toward the abs connector, brake line and CV boot. The sway bar link separated at its upper fitting presumably as a result of (not the cause of) the broken spring.

The spring does not reach the upper seat with the car on jack stands. However, there is still significant downward tension on the wheel as the upper region of the spring is pinned against the wheel well by the abnormal geometry. I am concerned that removing the wheel as is might result in the spring descending further under tension and damage the abs connector, brake line and/or perhaps CV boot.

I fit and gently tightened a spring compressor as in the photos here hoping this approach might relieve the tension and allow disassembling the entire structure without further damage.

Before proceeding I would like to know if mvs readers think the spring compressor might work, think this is a really bad idea or have other suggestions. The upper safety pin on the front compressor bar is blocked by the broken spring and cannot engage.

Thanks in advance for any help.

spring seat free, spring compressors from above

2019-11-09 14.12.08_400px.jpg (62.81 KiB) Viewed 996 times

front spring compressor from below

2019-11-09 12.49.45_400px.jpg (54.82 KiB) Viewed 996 times

[attachment=1]2019-11-09 12.48.40_400px.jpg[/attachment

[800artfreed]

See if you can get a shop to give you an estimate to install 2 quick struts and your FCP supplied replacement strut mount hardware (on top) and new bolts at the steering knuckle. I just did a "normal" strut refresh with new mounting hardware and swapping the springs from the old struts to new ones. I have 3 different compressors and one of them slipped while the spring was off the strut and the spring slammed into my hand. It is definitely bruised.

The most serious part of your job is the removal of the old hardware. That's why it might be safer to get a shop to remove the old spring/strut assembly. If you are going to do it yourself I would by additional HF spring compressor and attach where possible. Though not the best they are relatively small and should fit where you need them. You must have the tension of the spring under control before trying to drop the strut. After it is out, the installation will be fairly easy. Remember to protect your axle boots from being damaged. Since you are up in the salt country and your bolts & stuts look rusty as hell I would suggest using "NEVER SEIZE". There are 2 kinds, aluminum and copper. I have only used the silver aluminum type. One can has literally lasted for decades. Makes disassembly much easier.

BTW I got a Firestone lifetime alignment on my 4 cars. Anytime I do suspension work that requires an alignment it is FREE. Only added 60 extra dollars to the first alignment. When I asked the Firestone shop how many times should a car be aligned they suggested every 6 months! I think it is the best bargain in the automotive arena.

[enotslim]

Don't want to tow anywhere else after getting a $2,400 estimate (genuine Volvo parts, as a start). Didn't look for a shop to do quick struts. If the compressor relieves all the tension on the upper portion of the spring would it make sense to cut the upper portion in pieces (tested angle grinder cutoff wheel on old rear spring -worked well) and remove it entirely, then relax and remove the spring compressor? At that point the remaining spring will likely be under no or very little tension above or below the wheel. I could then remove the wheel and do a normal quick strut replacement.

[MoVolvos]

I think it would be best if possible to clamp the top and bottom of the broken spring only.

EDIT: Clamp the lower broken "lower" spring.

[MoVolvos]

Currently the spring compressor might feel solid because the top of the mount is still stable in the car chassis along with the 2 bolts in the steering knuckle. Once separated the two springs will go whichever way it is sprung.

Remove the ABS sensor off the bracket and loosen all the lug nuts but don't remove any. As all the lug nuts begin to go further out see how much tension there is as the rim comes off the hub. If it is really tight just readjust the compressors accordingly, meaning on the lower broken piece only as the top looks like it is unloaded already.

[abscate]

Get the caliper off and swing the ABS, brake hose, and axle out of the way. You could also protect the CV boot with a piece of lumber.

Then get that busted strut out

[enotslim]

Compressing the spring freed the wheel that then come off easily. The broken distal piece of spring was restricting movement of the proximal portion as the latter passed (abnormally) over the perch. They were pinned tightly together creating lots of conflicts and lateral displacement up and down the spring. The photo illustrates the abrasions from the spring rubbing against the surround of the upper strut tower. Also, after raising the car the spring was stretched (not compressed) between the perch above and the bracket for the sway bar link below. Took a while for me to realize this. After I pried the broken distal piece of spring out of the perch everything else began to free up as I pushed and pulled in various directions. When there was little remaining tension I cut the spring into pieces using an angle grinder and removed the strut tower. Finally. I think installing new on this side and replacing the other side should be straightforward.

And perhaps also time for some brake work.

Regarding the quick strut solution: When I replaced a rear spring in this same XC70 matching the specific spring to the vehicle (suspension?) was important. If the same is true for the front, then how can a single quick strut be appropriate for all XC70 vehicles? They must be made using a spring with a single set of specifications.

Free at last.

Broken spring piece in place.

Broken spring piece removed.

Abrasions above. Time for brakes below?

Patch me?

[abscate]

That flash rust on the brakes isn’t bad, that is from sitting still on wet days. How much pad thickness is left?

Make sure you color match the duct tape repair on that tire

[enotslim]

Replaced spring and bumpstock since I already had everything taken apart to remove the broken spring and the other parts "looked" OK. I realize other components may or may not need replacing soon. Now I know what to do.

Car runs fine after a new tire and reassembly. Even passed safety/emissions inspection. Except for one thing. A noise that was present before replacing the spring is now much louder.

The noise seems to come from the right front wheel well area - the location of the new spring. It is a clicking/rubbing sound that varies in frequency with wheel rotation, but is more rapid - many clicks/rubs per one wheel rotation. Not dependent on engine rpm.

No noise during acceleration. The noise begins softly when constant velocity is reached, continues softly on and off while speed is maintained and becomes much louder during deceleration. Becomes louder when coasting to a slower velocity and does not change when the brakes are applied.

This noise preexisted the spring replacement and became louder immediately afterward. Removed abs sensor on that side. Noise returned to pre-spring replacement level. Sensor shows scoring on the surface facing the reluctor ring. Didn't take photo but it looked like multiple light, parallel, very slightly curved scratches. While replacing the strut I removed the bolt securing the abs sensor. The sensor itself didn't want to come out so I left it in place and replaced the bolt. I worked around the abs line when replacing the spring. I didn't think I damaged anything, but ....

Surprising to me if this is an abs issue - No ABS warning light until I removed the sensor. Didn't think to use a code scanner at that time. No light with the softer noise before spring replacement or with the louder noise after spring replacement. Only after entirely removing the sensor. Could reinstall the sensor now and scan.

The reluctor ring might be broken this should trigger the light, right? The left front ring failed with an error code 1-2 years ago resulting in a new axle. Don't want to repeat that if possible. Could the reluctor ring be so corroded that it is rubbing on adjacent parts (but on what?) and I caused a small movement in the sensor when I removed/reinstalled the strut tower for the broken spring resulting in sensor/ring abrasion and louder noise? I probably could clean the ring teeth. Is there easier access to the reluctor ring than peering through the opening normally occupied by the sensor?

Any suggestions before I go chasing a reluctor ring repair? Can this be done without replacing the entire axle? If I get the old ring off will heating a new ring allow it so slip into place and secure itself after cooling? (Who designs these things so a failed $10 part necessitates buying a $500 replacement?)

Other likely possibilities? Brake calipers/rotors/pads were replaced about one year ago. Pads still have lots of meat and braking seems fine. Don't think calipers are rubbing on discs.

Thanks.

[abscate]

The symptoms match CV joint wear perfectly, noise changing under drivetrain load.

Source a used axle and replace, then open up your old one and see if the CV cage shows wear and gouging

I think your use cycle on the car is really light, so you could use a cheap non Volvo replacement and probably get 5 years out of it.