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1990 940 GLE 16V Automatic ~93,000 Miles Various issues

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girlbunny
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1990 940 GLE 16V Automatic ~93,000 Miles Various issues

Post by girlbunny »

Hi there. This is my first post, and I'm grateful to have found a forum like this! I recently purchased my first Volvo (1990 740 16V Automatic, approx 93,000 miles), and as you can likely tell from the year/model it was second hand :) Overall she runs well. However there are numerous issues which I believe could well turn out to become a massive headache if I don't nip them in the bud quickly. As such, I thought I would send in a post with the problems, and hopefully someone here will be able to lend me a hand to identify the issues! I have done a look to see if I can find something similar, but either my search terms really stink, or it's something that doesn't come up that often.

Firstly, at around 53mph (I've had to convert, so that's a rough estimate) the fuel economy goes south. Way south. In fact, she chews gas like it's going out of style. Open road driving she goes through around three times the gas as city/town driving. She whines. Someone who has driven a manual will know the sound... the sound of the revs going too high - when you should have gone up a gear, but haven't done so. Not a nice sound. The rev counter does show that the revs are high also. Because Volvo's are not known for their loud annoying whines, and I don't know of anyone who would put up with those revs while driving on the motorway, I figure there has to be a problem.

I've had a few thoughts... possibly dangerous considering I'm in new territory, but I'm sure if I'm way off the mark I'll be led in the right direction :)

I've located a user manual to help me identify exactly what some of the lights on the dash mean :) From what I can tell, the upward arrow is meant to be state when 4th gear is engaged in automatic transmissions. I'm not used to automatics, so please bear with me :)

When I first took the car home the upward arrow was lit the entire time, including when sitting at traffic lights. I presumed the light meant "Drive"!! When I realised it was going on or off at random times, I figured it was a good time to look up the meaning of the lights themselves. So, I'm thinking that this is a symptom of a problem. Perhaps with the gearing system itself?

Also, could there be a problem with the lock-up? That is meant to kick in at around 50mph, and that's approximately the speed that things go bad. So, that's a thought as well. It could potentially be tied into why the revs are high, and the upward arrow light keeps turning on.

Probably unrelated, but because I don't know, I'll add it here...

The car stalls... however, not when it's first started, or even while initially running. If I run it (for a long time or short time), then stop the car - for instance, to go into a store... when she first starts, she stalls. A lot. Very easy to get running again, but continues to stall until I've had a chance to actually get moving. The problem disappears if the car can go *forward* for around 150 feet. At least, until the car is stopped (as in turned off) again. The only way to get around the issue is if it's revved lightly when first started (I know this is not good for the engine), and parking brake applied while reversing (I also know this is not good for the parking brake). I would like to know what causes this problem so that I don't damage the poor car.

Also, there is a wrap-around light around the A/C Off button. This light flashes (orange) consistently. As soon as the car is turned on, the flashing starts. It doesn't matter if the button is in or out, and the airconditioning itself isn't really working... thus I'm working under the assumption that it's attempting to tell me about some kind of problem that I'm too dense to be able to figure out :)

Now, I really don't want to seem like a total moron... but because I am familiar only with manual transmissions, and not automatics, I have taken the advice of the people I bought the car from when doing basic things such as changing "gear" (for want of a better term). I have a sneaky suspicion (after having read over the user manual yet again) that I may well have just been given the wrong information. Rather than stop, it might be a good idea to know for sure first :) I was told to depress both the button on the top of the gear stick, and the button on the side, when changing from Drive to Neutral, 1, 2, or R... actually... any time I changed it at all, I was told I should depress both buttons. Is the guy who told me this someone who just wants me to kill my gearbox, or is this actually what I'm meant to do? Am I causing myself problems by following his instructions? Exactly what are the buttons for, and when are they best used? I believe that there's a button *somewhere* in the car that disengages the fourth gear. If that's the case, am I pressing the darned thing when I first leave, and thus cause the whole grief with the gas consumption myself?

Thanks in advance for any help, I appreciate any and all thoughts :)

johnboy740
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Post by johnboy740 »

Hi, the arrow light on the dash means that your overdrive or fourth gear is OFF. You turn that on and off with the button on the side of the shifter. You want the light off when you are on the highway and some would say on in the city. You don't have to push that button when you shift, as it will shift fine on its own. I just leave the light off all the time. Now for your A/C issue, honestly, I have no idea, but I'm sure someone will come along with help soon. The stalling issue could be a number of things. My 89 740 does the same thing just as you described, but I haven't been able to figure it out yet. I've only had it for a couple of weeks. At any rate, that should set you straight on the rev issue. If your light doesn't go on and off when you push the button, you have a wiring problem.

girlbunny
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Post by girlbunny »

Thanks johnboy :)

I figured if that was the problem it would likely fix all of the petrol consumption and weird light issues in one fell swoop :)

I'm going out this afternoon, I'll see if the light responds to the button. I'm glad to have a potential clue to this issue though!

I called the local Volvo repair place and asked them about the A/C light flashing and they didn't have a clue either! Maybe I should call around a few of the larger Volvo repair places and see if they've had any experience. I thought that if it did something sos deliberate it would point to the problem, but it looks as though it's just confusing the issue :)

Thanks again :)

Sam

johnboy740
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Post by johnboy740 »

try posting over on the brickboard.com

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
Also, there is a wrap-around light around the A/C Off button. This light flashes (orange) consistently. As soon as the car is turned on, the flashing starts.
This is the Electronic Climate Control (ECC) telling you that it has a problem.

Fortunately it is fitted with a self diagnosis system which you can use with these instructions:

Image

Pull the codes and anything you do not understand post back.

Also on your car there is a self diagnostic system for some parts of the engine. Instructions on how to use it can be found at: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... c&start=12

This is for the turbo but the NA engine uses the same procedure but some of the codes are different.

Don't hesitate to ask for more help.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

girlbunny
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Post by girlbunny »

Firstly, I just have to note that it's official. I AM a moron :) Johnboy, the problem with gas consumption/high revs and the darned light were all fixed by refraining from pushing buttons when shifting gears. Now I have to get out of the habit, but at least I know when I've pushed the button now... the light comes on!

Bill, you're a legend :) Tomorrow I'm going to try to figure out what the problem is. Evidently it's a serious problem... the light comes on when the car is first turned on, and it remains on until it's turned off. If it's only affecting the A/C then I can leave it until I can source the right parts... and a decent service manual (not to mention tools LOL) If it's affecting more than that I'll have to look at my options for getting the problem fixed.

I do know that I have to keep the A/C turned off or it can suck power from the engine whilst driving (not a lot, but it's noticable) At one point with the fan turned to auto and the A/C button out (thus it was engaged) the car was making a regular hissing noise - like the sound of gases (or similar) escaping. I depressed the A/C button and turned off the fan and the noise stopped. Since then I haven't dared touch the button again LOL (Well... except after my 3 year old has been pressing buttons, I have to ensure that it's off!)

Thanks again, this should make all the difference.

Now all I have to do is source a good supplier for the brakes - the dreaded grinding noise while braking from the front drivers side is a dead give away. It's only just started, and I've been careaful on the brakes since then, so I can source the parts necessary. I figured if the local Volvo repair people were charging $300 for an oil change, I would have to fix the brakes myself :) Know how to do it on other cars, and as long as I'm equipped, it shouldn't be too much of a hassle with this one, surely?

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

I have just re-read your first post heading and thought I had given you bad advice as it says 940 and what I was working on was 740, but that was what it said in the body of the text. Now what was the first line of your latest post.......?

Leave the AC off for the time being so long as you have heat. It does make a significant difference to the mileage. Some of the faults that do come up do not take a great deal of fixing while others can be, well, difficult I suppose is one way of describing them.

The brakes on the 740 are fairly easy to do, certainly no harder than the average car, so if you've done them before you should have no problems. Try to find an independent repairer who has a knowledge of European cars. Prices will be much less if you do have to put the car in for work. Having said that, however, I know many independents who can work on any car, especially the older models as they do not rely so heavily on computers to make them work.

Any problems - post.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

girlbunny
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Joined: 14 January 2008
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Post by girlbunny »

Hi again Bill :)

It's a 940. 16V version.

Ever since I got the thing I kept thinking it was a 740, I tried remembering to change all the references to a 740 - must have missed some!

However, I'm presuming that the A/C issue will likely have the same triggers and codes. If not, I know that there ARE codes now and can look to see if I can find out what's what :)

Thanks again.

Sam

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

Sam,

Maybe it was released late in 1990 because the first model year for the 940 was 1991.

Not to worry, the ECC instructions still apply as does the other info you have been given regarding the yellow arrow and the brake pads.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

girlbunny
Posts: 50
Joined: 14 January 2008
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by girlbunny »

I've officially confused myself again anyway :) At this point, I'm beginning to realise that I really don't have a clue... well, actually, I realised it before too, the point is just being driven home!

Okay, I turned the engine on and had it running. I put the fan on auto. Here's where I'm already getting confused LOL I'm presuming "mode dial at vent" means turn the air to going through the face vents. Temperature dial at max cooling was self evident anyway :)... but how do I know or set the A/C compressor so it's operating? Also... where is the sunlight sensor? I can figure out that depressing the A/C button and releasing within 5 seconds means press and hold momentarily, but make sure you release it within... well... 5 seconds :)

So... because I have no idea where the sunlight sensor is, plus I'm not 100% sure which "vent" is just "vent"... and how to know if the A/C compressor is operating or not, I'm not sure I can get it to tell me the codes :o

This really does look like it has been written for Joe Public, which makes me feel even more like a dunce because I am, yet again, totally without a clue LOL

I did notice today though, that it took around five seconds after the engine was started for the light to start flashing. I'm not sure what *this* indicates, if anything :)

Thanks again, and I do appreciate the trouble you're going to for a newbie who is probably already taking you to the point of despair :o

Sam

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