Hello,
I just reinstalled oil sump.
Unfortunatelly there oil leakage. What went wrong? I cleaned everything, I put sealant, and troqued bolts with dynamometric wrench.
The leakage is close to one of the two seals in the sump. I did not change it this time.
The leakage is very strange. I already changed the sump few times in my live on this car. Never before had the problem.
Oil leakage
- - Pete -
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I'm needing to do crank & cam seals myself & certainly hope I don't end up with one like yours, but that appears to be the seam between your oil pan and the bottom of the block. Which, from reading isn't a terribly uncommon leak to encounter. Apparently the various o-rings get brittle over time & can be cracked just from age & exposure to heat cycles etc.
It appears wet above the seam so it may be trickling down from further up as well & just "settling" on that shelf.
FCP has oil pan re-seal kits. Do not skimp on the special anaerobic sealant they call for either. I got parts store anaerobic sealant & after reading horror stories about oil leaks after using it I opted to return it & get the real stuff. Apply with a small paint roller.
I wonder if that allegedly tricky crank seal that has to go over the "step" on the nose of the crank got boogered up?
Edit:
I musta had my bifocals on inside out when I read this the other morning. I think you said you did NOT replace your o-rings/seals. Between that & getting the anaerobic sealer on all mating surfaces evenly, while ensuring no oil fouls your progress I think you’ll solve your leak. Like the other guy said, get your bolts on that side of the pan goo’d up with anaerobic sealant because if not it will leak.
It appears wet above the seam so it may be trickling down from further up as well & just "settling" on that shelf.
FCP has oil pan re-seal kits. Do not skimp on the special anaerobic sealant they call for either. I got parts store anaerobic sealant & after reading horror stories about oil leaks after using it I opted to return it & get the real stuff. Apply with a small paint roller.
I wonder if that allegedly tricky crank seal that has to go over the "step" on the nose of the crank got boogered up?
Edit:
I musta had my bifocals on inside out when I read this the other morning. I think you said you did NOT replace your o-rings/seals. Between that & getting the anaerobic sealer on all mating surfaces evenly, while ensuring no oil fouls your progress I think you’ll solve your leak. Like the other guy said, get your bolts on that side of the pan goo’d up with anaerobic sealant because if not it will leak.
Last edited by - Pete - on 18 Nov 2019, 09:11, edited 2 times in total.
2001 V70XC 200k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
2014 Ram 3500 DRW 116k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
2014 Ram 3500 DRW 116k
- ignatz
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On my 2001 V70, there were "about" two bolts on that side of the oil pan that the female threads went thru the engine block. These are the bolts that must get doped up with sealant or oil could leak back to the bolt head. I would imagine that leak would show on the bolt head.
BTW, I doped all the bolts when I did my oil pan. Also if I took a picture of my engine like yours, I would see the red/orange Volvo anaerobic sealant that squeezed out.
You might have to clean things up to see exactly where the leak is coming from.
BTW, I doped all the bolts when I did my oil pan. Also if I took a picture of my engine like yours, I would see the red/orange Volvo anaerobic sealant that squeezed out.
You might have to clean things up to see exactly where the leak is coming from.
2002 V70 2.4
2005 S60 2.5t awd
2006 S60 t5 stick shift
2005 S60 2.5t awd
2006 S60 t5 stick shift
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