'06 s60 Back Lights climate control/Hu-850 radio lights

Turninstinct6 · Post by **Turninstinct6** » 29 Jan 2019, 23:57

Hi!

I own a 2006 Volvo s60 2.5t (fwd).

In this car i have the Hu-850 Radio - the one with 6 disc Cd changer.

Recently the lights on the center dash went out. Center dash was completely dark.
First I checked using new fuses - not the problem.
I then thought its gotta be the bulbs! For Climate control That was my fix! - Replaced the grey/white 5 or 6 bulbs in the back and lit up my climate control like christmas. perfect easy fix.

Radio - different story
The bulbs . . I tested a couple of them by removing them. . not a good idea b/c i have to solder them back to the circuit board. Any way i took the leeds and tapped them to a separate power source. They worked! What tha?

Problem: Therefore, Somehow my radio is getting power because the digital screen and all buttons work (functionally) but the bulbs, the bulbs, are not receiving power and lighting up when in my car.

Anyone Have the same experience? Can I buy new connectors from battery to Radio? Is there a way to fix a short in the radio wiring? Is there something other than the bulbs and connector ribbons i can check?

In the attachments I have three pictures.

537playing · Post by **537playing** » 30 Jan 2019, 08:45

I played with the bulbs on my S80 radio a few years back. From what I remembered, the bulbs must be put in correctly for polarity. Otherwise they won't light.

ToddS · Post by **ToddS** » 14 Jan 2020, 15:43

Turin,

Did you solve your radio backlight problem?

I've got the same on my 2006 XC70...

Turninstinct6 wrote: ↑29 Jan 2019, 23:57 Hi!

I own a 2006 Volvo s60 2.5t (fwd).

In this car i have the Hu-850 Radio - the one with 6 disc Cd changer.

Recently the lights on the center dash went out. Center dash was completely dark.
First I checked using new fuses - not the problem.
I then thought its gotta be the bulbs! For Climate control That was my fix! - Replaced the grey/white 5 or 6 bulbs in the back and lit up my climate control like christmas. perfect easy fix.

Radio - different story
The bulbs . . I tested a couple of them by removing them. . not a good idea b/c i have to solder them back to the circuit board. Any way i took the leeds and tapped them to a separate power source. They worked! What tha?

Problem: Therefore, Somehow my radio is getting power because the digital screen and all buttons work (functionally) but the bulbs, the bulbs, are not receiving power and lighting up when in my car.

Anyone Have the same experience? Can I buy new connectors from battery to Radio? Is there a way to fix a short in the radio wiring? Is there something other than the bulbs and connector ribbons i can check?

In the attachments I have three pictures.

Turninstinct6 · Post by **Turninstinct6** » 16 Jan 2020, 02:03

No i have not fixed my radio backlights(power, volume knobs, presets, audio settings dark) I was hoping you guys had a quick fix for me...with instructions!

ToddS · Post by **ToddS** » 16 Jan 2020, 02:51

Ha! I'm no help either. At the shop I took it to they said all the connections checked out. That the problem was in the control module. beyond their ability to diagnose. Their solution is to find another power source for that backlight board. Lights will always be on when ignition is on. Not dimmable. Apparently not that difficult. I said go ahead as the the backlights being on all the time will not be that noticeable. If at all. They're backlights, right?

Reading comments in other forums I couldn't find any sure cures. The guy who suggested a heat soak caught my attention, but I figured my mechanic had the easiest, cheapest, sure fire work around.

Actually he's not going to do it. One of his employee's father is a medical device technician/repairman and he helps out at night with problems like this. So I guess I sort of lucked out.

Don't know how much any of that helps you. Sorry.

ToddS · Post by **ToddS** » 16 Jan 2020, 14:01

Well, further bad news. The shop just called and said the mechanic's dad, the medical device tech, said he couldn't find a way to "hot wire" the back light board.

So I'm back to the ~$1100 new radio + programming solution.

My mechanic said that used radios are a crap shoot. I hadn't heard that before, thought they were all unusable. He said some you can put in and they work straight off. Some work after programming. Some don't work at all...

I told him when the weather warmed up I'd go prowl the Pick 'n Pull yards. See if I could get 2 or 3 radios to try. He has the ability to program. Speaking of which, he didn't try re-programming this one, just the battery re-set trick. We agreed to wait until I had a used one or two to try the reprogramming as he buys a short term (2 day?) license. Might as well wait and have more than one to try it on...

Turninstinct6 · Post by **Turninstinct6** » 16 Jan 2020, 23:16

Is the control module a component of the radio? If that's the problem then soldering new bulbs on the radio back panel would not fix the problem.

ToddS · Post by **ToddS** » 16 Jan 2020, 23:55

My understanding is that since all the back light bulbs are out it isn't the bulbs that are bad. But rather the backlight board is not getting power...

Somewhere I read a post that said something along the lines of a six prong connecter to the control module from the back light board was the likely problem. I can't find that post now...

The tech my mechanic assigned to the job felt the same way. Note: I did not see the disassembled radio. But the tech was sure his father, the medical instrument guy, could find a power source in the module to wire up the back light board. He'd done similar work for the shop before. He warned that it would be a power source only, wouldn't go through the control module for dimming, etc. In other words it would be on whenever I turned the key on.

But today the tech retrieved the radio from his father who told him he couldn't find a way to access power "cleanly." I took that to mean he could not find a way to get power to the board from within the radio itself.

So the shop owner and I decided I'd try to get a couple of used radios and try them, rather then using the programming rental fee to just see if reprogramming the existing radio worked. Some folks have said it does. But the shop owner didn't think the odds were with us and if I could get a couple of Pick 'n Pull radios, as I described above, we'd have a better chance of getting one to work on the time allowed for the software rental...

Post by **cn90** » 25 Feb 2024, 19:13

I have a peculiar problem, hope someone could help...

- 2007 S60 with 118K miles.

- The L side temp button: the area between "72-76-80" is dark as shown.
- I watched some youtube video and replaced the bulb as shown (using good junk yard bulb),
but it is still dark.
- I checked the factory "bad" bulb but the filament is good.

What am I missing here?

1. Did I replace the wrong bulb?
Which bulb is responsible for that section of the temp control?

2. If that is correct bulb, is it possible the printed circuitboard is bad there?

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: S60-HVAC-Bulb.jpg (55.08 KiB) Viewed 1518 times

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 26 Feb 2024, 09:19

cn90 wrote: ↑25 Feb 2024, 19:13 I have a peculiar problem, hope someone could help...

- 2007 S60 with 118K miles.

- The L side temp button: the area between "72-76-80" is dark as shown.
- I watched some youtube video and replaced the bulb as shown (using good junk yard bulb),
but it is still dark.
- I checked the factory "bad" bulb but the filament is good.

What am I missing here?

1. Did I replace the wrong bulb?
Which bulb is responsible for that section of the temp control?

2. If that is correct bulb, is it possible the printed circuitboard is bad there?

----
S60-HVAC-Bulb.jpg

The position replaced looks correct. Sometimes the bulb sockets don't fit tight enough when twisted in. On my car I had to bend a little hump in the topside wire loops for the socket to fit tighter. I just used a jeweler's flat flathead screwdriver to get underneath the topside wireloop on both side and made a little mountain peak shape. The topside wire loops contact the traces on the circuit board and the little bend in them will help them make better contact with the board traces. You should also check the lower position bulb on that side just to be sure the position replaced is correct but I think it is correct. LED bulbs have a polarity so can only be installed one way but the factory bulbs are incandescent so it won't matter but it might be worth checking the bulb type you got from the salvage yard.

: CCM light topside wire loop.jpg (38.04 KiB) Viewed 1495 times