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2007 S80 3.2 w/110k - High Temp Warning, Screeching and (owner) Screaming

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IronMike
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2007 S80 3.2 w/110k - High Temp Warning, Screeching and (owner) Screaming

Post by IronMike »

Driving around 50mph and the message came up about engine temperature, reduce speed and then warning to stop engine. Really loud screeching and you can smell burning belt and see it coming apart a bit and stuttering/moving every so often. Surfed some parts diagrams and sure enough the water pump is driven by the power steering pulley. It was about 32 degrees out so hopefully that helped potentially save the engine. The Coolant Low message came on with the read triangle/exclamation point and family member was able to stop safely about a minute later.

Got it towed next morning and took it apart last night. Tensioner pulley exploded, there WAS NO pulley, which explains the screeching - yikes. See pics, remnants of belt and pulley casing (arrow), can't find the bearings anyway ;) Coolant is low in bottle by about 2 inches, but still some in there, however there is a bunch of it in the skid plate and all over the right strut, brakes, etc. Seems like it may have overflowed from the coolant reservoir based on location/path. I think this was the rising of the fluid due to water pump not moving and fluid heating (it was at max before this). I didn't see any bubbling while engine running, coolant still bright green, oil is clear. There is wetness/drips under the coolant reservoir, could be from overflow from cap day before or maybe it's leaking and extra pressure from rising temps exposed it more than it usually drips. Just thinking out loud...

Just want to validate, as much as possible as least, that the head gasket is OK before I throw money into all these other parts. I suppose it might be worth installing a new tensioner and idler pulley just to check things out when it's running. Ideally I would replace the water pump while there (maybe power steering pump too? Don't want anything trashing that serpentine system with water pump in it).

- Any tests I can do to confirm head gasket is ok?

Pulled the plugs and they seem pretty consistent, with #1 (left in photo) probably burning more oil than the others. But no real signs I can see of coolant burning.

- Can you do a compression test using the start button on these cars?

- Manual specs amount of tranny fluid, but where's the dipstick hiding for that? I wanted to see if it had coolant in it as long as I was there.
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pgill
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Post by pgill »

Mike,

12 years and only 110K miles is tough for the belt to fail.

If you don’t mind doing the belt twice you can just replace the belt and two pulleys (the tension pulley and idler pulley are the same part)

The cost of two pulleys and the belt isn’t much.

Take a look at this link to see a LR2 with the same pulley failure (but the belt survived)

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33363.html

Good luck

Paul

PS take a look at my post $10000 S80 Challange for other things to look into on your S80

IronMike
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Post by IronMike »

Great stuff there thanks!!!

IronMike
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Post by IronMike »

Is the tensioner pulley the same as the idler pulley and I can get away with just buying two idler pulleys and replacing just the pulley on the tensioner? There's a screw in the middle, so looks replaceable.
Last edited by IronMike on 19 Feb 2020, 13:08, edited 1 time in total.

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pgill
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Post by pgill »

IronMike wrote: 19 Feb 2020, 08:38 Is the tensioner pulley the same as the idler pulley and I can get away with just buying two idler pulleys and replacing just the pulley on the tensioner? There's a screen in the middle, so looks replaceable.
You are 100% correct and that is exactly what I did for my 2010 S80 3.2

Note: after you replace the belt and two pulleys if the belt isn't smooth then you will need to change the tensioner because the tensioner is spring loaded but it also dampens the belt movement

A nice write up of the job (The PDF is very helpful)

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=78772&sid=91a5b0f1 ... 234cddcd2b

Good Luck

Paul

IronMike
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Post by IronMike »

Interesting, so it's not just a spring loading device, it's a dampner. I'll just order the whole piece then, if I'm going to do this partially I might as well have the option of leaving it "Done" at that point if I determine nothing else is wrong. I have to assume the water pump is original but the coolant was in great shape and I know it wasn't changed in the past 2 years so it got timely maintenance. Shame, the whole A/C is brand new, was installed by dealer just prior to sale since it died while they had it for sale, and they put a new belt in. Probably didn't replace the tensioner/idler out of shear cheapness, or the mechanic wasn't a good one. Either way, real shame that's what caused all this, you can tell they were original parts.

IronMike
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Post by IronMike »

Thanks for those links BTW, seems like more info about this from Land Rover folks than Volvo owners! Great stuff.
Question, I see FCP sells a kit that includes the Alternator "clutch". This is new to me and I can't move that thing at all. Should I be able to turn the alternator pulley by hand? What drives that whole system, is there another belt inside that housing or is it a gear system? Want to determine if it needs replacing too while I'm at it.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 80-oem-kit

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pgill
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Post by pgill »

The kit at FCP has the part you need.

The clutch pulley that is in the picture is the one below the AC compressor its not the Alternator clutch pulley (the Alternator has its own clutch pulley)

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic34088.html

This link shows both pulleys and the tool needed to remove the pulley

Quote from the link below " I did notice that the belt for the A/C now moves very easily in one direction and not at all in the other. I checked my Land Rover and it doesn't move in either direction. I will need to buy another pulley and get to work on my LR2."

Note: after I wrote that I did fix the LR2 also

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33867.html


To answer your question you should be able to turn the AC pulley by hand but only in one direction.

For the Alternator you should be able to watch it freewheel when the engine shuts off (it may requires slow motion video)

Good luck

Paul

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Post by IronMike »

Hey buddy, confused a bit. The A/C pulley spins freely in either direction, as it SHOULD right? The car is off/no power so the A/C clutch is not engaged. I'm now realizing this is the DRIVE of the whole rear drive system, not the "alternator pulley". Excellent, thank you! Ordered the two pulleys and belt and going to just get the engine running again and see where things stand before I order more parts.

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pgill
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Post by pgill »

Sorry for the confusion.

I forgot that your belt is broken.

With the belt installed and a working clutch pulley the belt will move freely in one direction and not in the other.

P.S. If it were my S80 I would start with the two pulleys and the belt. Then I would replace the Thermostat and the small coolant hose (and O-ring) between the heat exchanger and the engine block. Then new spark plugs. Then if you are still getting a coolant leak under the reservoir; replace the cap and then the hose on the bottom of the reservoir.

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