Need help tonight! pulling engine, wont separate from trans completely Topic is solved

dobrosailor · Post by **dobrosailor** » 21 Feb 2020, 15:16

2002 C70, got a new used motor on the engine stand ready to go in, new seals, orings, cleaned out PVC, cleaned out oil pan ready to go. Got the old motor disconnected and hanging on the engine hoist, pulling with turbo attached to exhaust manifold, disconnected at exhaust flange. I got about 3/8" gap or more around the block/trans interface, top and bottom, she doesn't want to come free from trans. Took out 6 torque converter bolts, went to 7 and found an open threaded hole. Interface is clear of any mounting bolts, can see through to the ground. Engine is free, moves around on hoist, but cannot get it dislodged completely from transmission. Don't want to force things, using modest implements of destruction at this point, screw drivers and small screwdriver sized prybar. Before I get out the big guns (BFprybars BFDeadblow hammer, chisels etc) is there something I'm missing?

Thought I would stop tonight before my frustration breaks something expensive. Tomorrow morning I will resume the assault - thoughts???

Post by **erikv11** » 21 Feb 2020, 16:18

I always leave the trans attached and pull them both out the top, hooked together. Separate them on the ground where there is tons of room.

Post by **abscate** » 22 Feb 2020, 04:14

Yes, you are running out of room in the engine room to get the flexplate outoftye housing

Put four bolts back in, remove driveshafts, electrical, shifters, and pull them both

dobrosailor · Post by **dobrosailor** » 22 Feb 2020, 17:42

Ok the engine adn trans is ready to come out but it looks like the antilock brake system has to be removed which means breaking into the brake system. ANy alternatives?

dobrosailor · Post by **dobrosailor** » 23 Feb 2020, 15:15

I got the engine out with the transmission by lifting it out at quite an angle so I didn't have to mess wiht the brakes. Turns out to be a good thing. I fixed very bad trans flaring once and it lasted about 3 years and was just starting to return. I did the service again but this time I fixed it permanently I hope. It was so much easier working on the transmission without having to drop the corner of the subframe and work in unbearable conditions to get the solenoids in and out. Didn't even have to remove the transn oil, just rolled the trans over on its side so the solenoids were on top.

Man these sideways engines with all the electrical and turbo stuff are a nightmare to replace. NEVER again. I'll stick to vintage fords when it comes to engine replacements.

Thanks for all the help,

M

Post by **abscate** » 23 Feb 2020, 19:00

If you go in cold with a traditional engine background it will kick your butt.

The Haynes manual and/or Alldata made it about 2 hours for me, first time, coming up, engine and transmission together.

850oldschool · Post by **850oldschool** » 23 Feb 2020, 20:55

I have a friend who worked at Borton Volvo in Mpls. for about 10 years and I asked him about this. I think he said they liked to take the whole works out from below. That's probably how they assembled them at the factory.

Post by **erikv11** » 24 Feb 2020, 08:24

Interesting. But keep in mind your friend had a lift and no limit on tools, specialty jacks, etc. The point here is to ask people who've done it in their garage.

850oldschool · Post by **850oldschool** » 24 Feb 2020, 13:02

I guess I'm just trying to affirm that the reason it's a total PITA to do this stuff from the topside is because that's a different approach from the one used by the dealer and the factory.

Post by **erikv11** » 24 Feb 2020, 17:30

Oh, good point, makes sense!