2007 S80 3.2 w/110k - High Temp Warning, Screeching and (owner) Screaming

[IronMike]

Thanks again Paul. Unsure how smooth/free it should be, seems to have a bit of drag to it, it doesn't freewheel like a bicycle freewheel that's for sure. Should it (i.e., no belt on and I spin it, it keeps spinning on it's own)? For now, I just got the pulleys and belt from FCP (in 2 days with free shipping! nice to live close to their facility) and will be replacing that today and see what I can learn about the state of things. If I can be sure it's not the head gasket then I will throw some more money at it. About that, there are kits you can use now to test for combustion gas in the coolant - anyone have experience using those? Will do a compression test too, or at least try to with the push button start.

[pgill]

Mike

Great catch

I’ll add Cracked Coolant reservoir to the list

PM me and I’ll send you my email if you have more questions

Or just post here and I’ll reply when I see your post

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

Thanks again Paul. Unsure how smooth/free it should be, seems to have a bit of drag to it, it doesn't freewheel like a bicycle freewheel that's for sure. Should it (i.e., no belt on and I spin it, it keeps spinning on it's own)? For now, I just got the pulleys and belt from FCP (in 2 days with free shipping! nice to live close to their facility) and will be replacing that today and see what I can learn about the state of things. If I can be sure it's not the head gasket then I will throw some more money at it. About that, there are kits you can use now to test for combustion gas in the coolant - anyone have experience using those? Will do a compression test too, or at least try to with the push button start.

The clutch isn’t like a bike

It locks in one direction

And it will spin in the other direction but only when Force is applied

The amount of force is similar to opening a door knob

If you want actual units I estimate about 5 Ft*lbs (this could be confirmed using the removal tool)

Thanks

Paul

[pgill]

I just checked the new clutch pulley (for my 2010 S80 3.2) and the Force is 1 to 2 ft*lbs

Note this is for a new clutch pulley


If you want to compression test the engine you can remove the fuse for the fuel pump module

Its by the passenger’s feet

Good luck with the repair

Paul

[IronMike]

Paul, thanks man. Didn't occur to me until last night to compare it to my XC60's movement. That car's belt is working fine and is much easier to spin than the one I'm working on. I'm not going to worry about it for now, just want to get things back together and see if it behaves normally before I order more parts. I'm really at the "keep or or trade it" decision phase at this point, if after this I'm even granted that choice. We've only had it for just over a year, bought as a 'college car' from dealer with 100k on it, brand new A/C system and rear brakes so I think it's worth keeping just based on that alone if the engine will make it.

Coolant:
During the compression test I had someone watch the coolant reservoir for any change in level/movement and it was rock steady. Figure if pressure was coming from cylinder(s) it would move a bit, even w/o a water pump spinning. Still concerned about why coolant was leaking out during this episode, hoping it was just expansion from heat (which hopefully didn't mess up the head gasket). This car needed a "top off" of coolant from MIN to MAX just once during that summer, and that was it. I found that odd and it's been driven a lot since then with no change in level. The coolant is pretty fresh so maybe there was a "bubble" somewhere after a coolant change? Meh?

Compression test:
1 - 210
2 - 210
3 - 210
4 - 240
5 - 190
6 - 180

This was after the engine's been off for over a week, not sure how that might affect thing given oil seep back, etc.

Boroscope
Pretty much matches what I saw on the spark plugs:
1 - totally coated in wet carbon, you can't make out any details of piston surface, coating consistent overall, no spots worse than others, just a blanket of carbon. Bad oil ring or valve seal perhaps? PCV maybe, (but I thought that was a cylinder #6 issue if that's broken)?
2 - details of piston surface could be made out, odd mix of carbon deposit and clean piston surface.
3 - details of piston surface could be made out, odd mix of carbon deposit and clean piston surface.
4 - details of piston surface could be made out, odd mix of carbon deposit and clean piston surface.
5 - details of piston surface could be made out, odd mix of carbon deposit and clean piston surface.
6 - more carbon on surface than 2-5, but less than 6. Again, spark plug shows this - 6 was not as clean as 2-5.

Nothing really screaming out at me as a cylinder that's been sucking coolant, though not sure what this all means otherwise. Esp. wrt #4's higher compression and #6's lowest, but all within 20% of median. I really thought #1 might be the odd one, either high due to carbon deposits taking up volume or low due to bad rings, but I left the tester on for like 10 minutes and it was rock steady at 210. In fact, all of them stayed at their max for at least several minutes each (didn't have time to leave them each on for 10-15 minutes for a poor-mans leak down test).

I have the A/C compressor aside and got the old tensioner and idler pulleys off. I've loosened the two screws connecting the power steering pulley to the water pump. Reading the instructions on the LR2 site I see reference to folks pulling the power steering pump away and sliding the belt between the pulley and the water pump, presumably clearing the spring in that coupler. Is that the case or do I still need to disconnect the high pressure line for the power steering pump?

Overall, so far, it's not really that hard a job. I think folks make a bigger deal about this one because it's a freak'n BELT CHANGE and you have to remove all this stuff I've replaced turbos on 240's and even a blower fan on a 740 so maybe I've just been through more challenges, or maybe I'm just in for surprises

Picture shows #1 on left compared with #2

[IronMike]

Another great video (love the Canadian accent )- best part is here

Dude, well done - great video and sorry to see you had to go into that seal again. Interesting that there's a SST for that!

[IronMike]

PS: I'll stop looking for the transmission dipstick now. http://www.volvohowto.com/how-to-change ... xc70-2007/

[pgill]

I have the A/C compressor aside and got the old tensioner and idler pulleys off. I've loosened the two screws connecting the power steering pulley to the water pump. Reading the instructions on the LR2 site I see reference to folks pulling the power steering pump away and sliding the belt between the pulley and the water pump, presumably clearing the spring in that coupler. Is that the case or do I still need to disconnect the high pressure line for the power steering pump?

Mike,

That’s great news, you are almost there.

The high pressure line doesn’t need to be removed from the power steering (if you do remove it then replace the O-ring)

Remove the bolts holding the spring coupler to the power-steering pulley

Note the spring coupler may be stuck on the waterpump or the power-steering pump

Just make sure when you put it back together to seat the water pump side in the hole

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

Mike

If you do remove the high pressure line be aware that the power steering fluid will drain out

I use

Pentosin chf 202

Or

Pentosin chf 11s

Thanks

Paul

[IronMike]

Yep, noted. I got the belt past the coupler on the power steering pump side of it. Wasn't easy by any stretch but I did it. Didn't have to disconnect the lines at all which was nice. Starting to put it all back together. I saw that little plastic pin in the middle of the power steering pump pulley, it stayed it. So I didn't touch it and just pushed it all back together. I did hear a "snap" and then the spring loaded coupler popper into place with the two little black nubs poking through and got the torx screws back in place. Was that sudden "snap" that plastic pin inserting? Is that what you meant by seating it in the hole?

BTW, is that plastic pin just for centering while installing or does it serve a more vital purpose. I'm asking because I reusing the old one which I didn't remove. As I mentioned my goal is to just get'r running against and check for head gasket, coolant leaks, etc. Just basically see how she is since it hasn't run since The Incident.