Aceleration problem from start Topic is solved

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 27 Feb 2020, 12:23

MALL240 wrote: ↑27 Feb 2020, 02:05 After make it, and the batery off a couple of seconds, the diagnosis give me a 1 1 1. Noww, i have to test the car for a little trip and check again the diagnosis?

Yes read the codes again after the test drive. You should also check for ignition codes, socket #2, while you are at it.

After you have retrieved all the Fault Codes and written them down, you should erase the codes.

Erasing Fault Codes.

1. Read the fault codes again
2. Press and hold the button for more than five seconds, then release it.
3. When the LED lights, press the button again for more than five seconds and release.
4. If the LED goes off, the codes are cleared.

To test that codes are cleared, press the button again for >1 second and <3 seconds ( 2s & 2s ).
If code 1-1-1 is returned, the codes are cleared.

If you cannot erase the code, yet you feel the problem has been fixed, then turn the ignition off and disconnect the battery ground for a few seconds. This will clear all the codes. After starting the engine and a test run, if the code does not reappear, then you've fixed the problem. If you obtain another code, then you've still got the fault.

MALL240 · Post by **MALL240** » 28 Feb 2020, 07:03

Hi, ok i will go to check and come back! thanks

Edit:

Hi, new error codes on 2 PIN: 2 1 3 Fuel inyectors? and 1 1 3 Trhottle sensor...no?

Pin number 6 OK

Some way to check inyerctors... i never make it before

THANKS

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 28 Feb 2020, 13:57

MALL240 wrote: ↑28 Feb 2020, 07:03 Hi, ok i will go to check and come back! thanks

Edit:

Hi, new error codes on 2 PIN: 2 1 3 Fuel inyectors? and 1 1 3 Trhottle sensor...no?

Pin number 6 OK

Some way to check inyerctors... i never make it before

THANKS

Clear the socket 2 codes, test drive, read again. To insure you do not end up chasing long vanished ghost.

2-1-3 Throttle switch: full load setting faulty; possible grounding short.
TPS Throttle Position Sensor Switch at full load .

Injectors testing.

1. Attach a fuel supply to the fuel input side.
2. Place business end of injector in a vented clear plastic bottle.
3. Fire the injector by applying a Voltage.
4. Observe the spray, It should be a atomized mist.

You can use one of the newer Bosch fuel injectors listed below.
They are all the same specs as the original injector.
1. Part number EV6CL.
2. Part number 62534.
3. Part number 0280156045
4. Part number 24406653.

That car is 30 years old, it would not surprise me if the injectors are in bad shape. How many Kilometres on the odometer?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 29 Feb 2020, 00:15

OEM 240 injectors are $50 - $60 per set on the US eBay site.

MALL240 · Post by **MALL240** » 03 Mar 2020, 04:11

Hi, I've checked the wiring and I don't see any broken wires or bad contacts. I have tested the ECU terminal number 2 (but my wire is blue and red, and it should be white and yellow no? ) I have tested it and it gives me a reading of 0.99 and then it jumps to 1000 but returns to 0.99... does not give a concrete or consistent reading. My ECU has the white sticker on it. I have adjusted the TPS with the gauges. I'm going to check the V reading on the TPS wiring to see if it's okay. I heard the ticking of each injector seem to jump out... that doesn't mean they're working right.

Yesterday I looked at the fuel relay, it's white and has no reference of any kind. I'm doubting if it's 30A (B230F), I've asked for it because it looks quite corroded on the circuit side.

It keeps doing like a vacuum before accelerating, it clearly sticks. If I accelerate it little by little it goes well, although little force.

Thanks

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 03 Mar 2020, 15:50

The colors are correct, however that is the is the EZK Ignition module not the LH-Jetronic fuel injection module.

With a electrical measurement two points of reference are required. Such as pin #2 to chassis ground, Pin #2 to Pin#1 .... ect.

Ticking injector means it is firing but the spray pattern maybe not be good or the injector maybe leaking.

MALL240 · Post by **MALL240** » 05 Mar 2020, 01:45

Hey Rick, my system isn't Jetronic? It's EZK?

Thank you

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 05 Mar 2020, 01:53

MALL240 wrote: ↑05 Mar 2020, 01:45 Hey Rick, my system isn't Jetronic? It's EZK?

Them cars have two Engine Control Units. Jetronic for controlling the Fuel injectors and EZK for controlling the Ignition spark.

Jetronic is located on the right of the driver’s side footwell. I think it is behind the Kick panel.
EZK is located on the passenger side firewall. This is what you been working with.

MALL240 · Post by **MALL240** » 05 Mar 2020, 02:03

Okay, just to be clear, which one is the ECU?

Edit: THANKS!!!

Edit: I see it's 3 different components. I'm going to take a good look at everything, because I don't remember seeing the ECU around. Thanks

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 05 Mar 2020, 02:19

MALL240 wrote: ↑05 Mar 2020, 02:03 Okay, just to be clear, which one is the ECU?

Both are. ECU means Engine Control Unit. One controls the engine by means of the fuel system and the other controls the engine by means of the Ignition system. Years later they combined the two into one unit.

What is the third one you are looking at?

Aceleration problem from start Topic is solved

Re: Aceleration problem from start