2000 c70 Rear shocks nightmare [links to rear shocks threads FWD] Topic is solved

[subzerocarfanatic]

See links down thread to DIY TIPS on this procedure

Wow...i have worked on more cars than i can count and have never seen a more pain in the ..... Job than this one. What was Volvo thinking,that they would never need replacing? Am i doing something wrong! You have to work through a speaker hole just to get to the top mounting nut if that weren't enough you have no room for wrenches hardly. You have to have a very tiny wrench or tiny crescent wrench to hold the top end so you can try and squeeze a 15mm open end wrench on the nut at the same time,next to impossible.

[subzerocarfanatic]

Maybe i need to take a break. You have to hold the top so the entire thing does not spin, then that leaves no room for the wrench.

[subzerocarfanatic]

If anyone has done this and knows a trick please chime in. Sorry for ranting, this is frustrating!

[abscate]

You need to know someone with the shock tool closer than Albany
You should be able to loosen it with an impact, then grab with vice grips and open end

A crows foot would also work..

[subzerocarfanatic]

There's barely room for a wrench must less an impact

[abscate]

Deep socket and extension. Just did this on my 1998

[callahanoffroad]

I replace the upper rubber mounts at the same time. For exactly this situation. Plus it usually needs to be done anyways. Then all you have to do is assemble the fresh shocks with fresh upper mounts outside the car. You can get a good grip on the shock piston that way. I find that hitting it with an impact that way is super fast too, spins the nut so fast that the Piston can't even move hahahaha. Hope that helps!

[chris11211]

Get a deep socket, and HOLD the top part of the shock through the springs.

Also, use the jack (not the cheap 2 ton you get anywhere) to push and hold the new shocks into place; you can also use it to push up on the control arm. The jack is your friend.

[chris11211]

Here's what I remember what I did.

1. Jack up the rear using the rear points where you would put the included jacks in, and place the stands on the big bulges next to the wheels.

2. Remove the wheels and all of the beauty covers on the trunk and on top of the sock. Also bring down both rear seats.

3. Install the correct size deep well socket to an impact wrench, hold the top portion of the shocks through the springs that surround it, then drill out the nut.

4. Since the bottom is aluminium, recommend you use a breaker bar to remove the bottom bolt holding the shock. Wiggle or tap out the old shock.

5. Thread the new shock through the hole and hold in place using the jack (ex. harbor freight 1.5 ton jack).

6. hand tighten the nut on top and line up the bottom holes.

7. Thread the bottom bolt through the bottom of the shock and hand tighten. (Red locktight is recommended though not required)

8. Toque both the top and the bottom

Top = 44ft (60 nm) (kinda hard so don't worry might as well use the impact while holding the shock)
Bottom= 59ft (80 nm)

9. Repeat on other side then reassemble.

If you are also replacing the mount.

1. after step 4 remove the three bolts and push down to remove the mount.

2. install the new mount using a new shock that is threaded through the mounts hole, and a jack on the bottom of the shock. This is in order to fight the resistance of the rubber tab that is sticking out of the mount that when passed through will hold on the the metal of the car.

3. Go back to step 5.

Warning! make sure the mount is in the right orientation ie. the little rubber tab is gripping the car, or else the mount will sacrifice itself, break, and you'll then have to get a new one.

[850oldschool]

I seem to recall clamping the vise grip on the exposed shock rod in the wheel well, and I think it bumped into something and couldn't rotate.