I have a 2001 XC70 Cross Country and would like to wire in my Valentine One (V1) radar locator with remote display (http://www.valentine1.com). The car seems to be pretty sealed up, that is, little exposure/access to its wiring so I'm having trouble figuring out the best way to do this.
I formerly had the V1 mounted in a BMW 5-series on the passenger visor and the remote display in the dash which was a nice setup. It was wired into the sunroof wiring (http://www.bmwtips.com > Tips & Tricks > Electronics/Cell > "5. Installing a Valentine One Radar Detector"). Alas, had the trade it in for a minivan (ouch!).
Anyone have any tips of where I can wire the detector into the Volvo? Step by step, pictures, and/or details would be very welcomed!
Thanks!
hard wiring installation of Valentine1
I have hard wired a Valentine1 in my BMW 5-series and Volvo 850. Although I do not use a remote display because the newer models auto dim during night and can hardy be seen through my back windows. Both of mine are centered 1 inch under the rear view mirror.
The BMW was easy because I pulled power from the dome light/sunroof motor access compartment by the rear view mirror.
The 850 was not as easy because the easiest power connection was behind the radio with wires run under the passenger floor mat and behind the passenger door trim between the door and windshield. I used 24 gauge phone wire and crimp a new end for the Valentine. I would imagine this would work for a remote display and could be done by using one phone type twisted pair wire for power supply and return signal.
Hope my experience is helpful.......
The BMW was easy because I pulled power from the dome light/sunroof motor access compartment by the rear view mirror.
The 850 was not as easy because the easiest power connection was behind the radio with wires run under the passenger floor mat and behind the passenger door trim between the door and windshield. I used 24 gauge phone wire and crimp a new end for the Valentine. I would imagine this would work for a remote display and could be done by using one phone type twisted pair wire for power supply and return signal.
Hope my experience is helpful.......
- Tsquared
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- Joined: 17 August 2003
- Year and Model: 11 C30
- Location: Atlanta GA
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Don't use phone wire (JK or RJ-11) in a vehicle because of ambient vibrations. It is a solid wire and can break easily. Radio Shack has a variety of power cables that provide a ground and positive connection. They also have multi-strand twisted pair if you need more than 2 wires.bimmerjac wrote:I would imagine this would work for a remote display and could be done by using one phone type twisted pair wire for power supply and return signal.
You also want to splice via a solder joint and heat shrink to avoid faulty connections and grounding. Avoid crimp splice connectors as they will work loose over time.
Good luck,
T
'11 C30 T5
'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
Valentine has and always will use modular connections for the units they sell because of the reliability and ease of operation. As for not using solid core copper and mods due to 'ambient vibrations' ...... the telecommunications and communications industry provides numerous pieces of equipment that endure harsher conditions than any motor vehicle.
Radio Shack stranded wire is much more likely to cause a problem because..... well.... it's crap.
Radio Shack stranded wire is much more likely to cause a problem because..... well.... it's crap.
- Tsquared
- Posts: 519
- Joined: 17 August 2003
- Year and Model: 11 C30
- Location: Atlanta GA
- Has thanked: 1 time
21 years in communications - BSbimmerjac wrote:Valentine has and always will use modular connections for the units they sell because of the reliability and ease of operation. As for not using solid core copper and mods due to 'ambient vibrations' ...... the telecommunications and communications industry provides numerous pieces of equipment that endure harsher conditions than any motor vehicle.
Radio Shack stranded wire is much more likely to cause a problem because..... well.... it's crap.
Stay away from solid core wire in a vehicle.
'11 C30 T5
'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).
Sorry for the delayed response but from the picture below...... I have been quite busy changing out the evaporator core on my Volvo. Not a fun job but easier that some others I have done in the past. VW had one where the shutoff flaps would fall out when the case clips were opened to place the new core.
I think I used the red w/back tracer or the yellow w/black tracer for power from the larger plug in the back of the radio and frame for ground. Not sure which..... and my dash is in a box on the bottom of a pile of parts. Be sure you have the radio code if you pull it out.
Remember that I have an 850 not an xc70 so I am not sure what the differences are.

I think I used the red w/back tracer or the yellow w/black tracer for power from the larger plug in the back of the radio and frame for ground. Not sure which..... and my dash is in a box on the bottom of a pile of parts. Be sure you have the radio code if you pull it out.
Remember that I have an 850 not an xc70 so I am not sure what the differences are.

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