2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved

[xHeart]

Moving up from the crankshaft, oil pump, to vvt hub task. Removing hard wire loom and moving wire does give ample room to access T-55 and service vvt hub. VVT is off and intake gear is on the bench. Working on front cam seals.

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[- Pete -]

Your draping & cleanliness is worthy of an operating room. Any surgeon would be tickled with your preparatory measures!

[xHeart]

Camshaft gears, t-belt components, water pump, s-belt and tensioner are now off -- lots of space to move around there. Would removing and cleaning inner cover theraputic before the install begins?

Can I use Bauer over the crankshaft beast nut to put back, and torque - Bauer delivers 300 ft-Ib?

Here is exhaust cam with old seal. I cleaned it lightly to help me see it better.

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[- Pete -]

Once all the rubber stuff was off the front of the engine, I just sprayed it down with engine degreaser & brake parts cleaner/simple green in your case. I had a shower curtain on the floor & a large black multi-purpose tub on top of that to catch all the debris & dripping oil/solvents. Cleanup was a breeze! You just don’t want a lot of solvent getting into the water pump area & staying there when you install new pump. I attempted to remove my plastic to clean more thoroughly (on both engines I recently did) but ultimately skipped it when I saw how well spray solvents & brushes worked.

When you go to install the new seals oil the inner lip of the seal only. I drove my seals in with outer surfaces dry & bores cleaned with solvent & then 90% rubbing alcohol. I’ve seen where people use the anaerobic sealant on the outer faces of the seals. I never saw mention of that in ViDA & on both engines I also did PCV refurb so figured it was unnecessary.

Did you mark your crank nut with a white paint marker before you blasted it off?
I always use an impact to put the crank nut back on & just get the paint marks lined back up, or as close to it as possible. It’s not gonna come loose. I also sink the crank gear/timing belt pulley back on the nose of the crank with a large socket & plastic/rubber mallet.

[xHeart]

Removing inner engine cover exposed breaks and cracks. Now mostly repaired with JB, it feels strong.

Thank you for the tips on installing seals -- 70% isopropyl pads came handy. Seals are in. FWIW, 1000 grit dry/wet sandpaper does great cleaning matting surfaces -- VERY SMOOTH.

I was so excited to blast it off (Lol!), forgot making corresponding marks on the 30mm crankshaft nut and harmonic balancer. Would 1/2" HF Pittsburg torque wrench do the job with camshafts being locked, yes?

Now, looking into transferring cam gear to new hub, any thoughts -- spring loaded and marked for REST and FORWARD positions? Here is a pix:

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[- Pete -]

Did you make your white paint marks on the top of the valve cover for both full advance & retard?

The holes for the sprocket are “slotted” so that if after you’ve torqued the center bolt to 88fl/lb you notice it is off at full advance/retard, you can adjust it.

Yeah 1/2 torque wrench should be fine.

[xHeart]

Did you make your white paint marks on the top of the valve cover for both full advance & retard?

The holes for the sprocket are “slotted” so that if after you’ve torqued the center bolt to 88fl/lb you notice it is off at full advance/retard, you can adjust it.

Yes, paint marks on top of the valve cover for full advance & retard. Full advance is where the t-belt sat. Coming to final lap tomorrow with installing cam gears, and looping belts.

Does it mean the three 8mm screws fastening gear to the hub be snug for later adjustments. AND torqued after the t-belt is on?

Will there be a need to inscribe new timing mark on cam gear?

[- Pete -]

Correct - full advance is where your T-belt sat.

NO (not shouting, just emphasizing) do not torque with t-belt on. Torque on exhaust hub is done with cams still locked, belt NOT on.

The idea is you get the exhaust hub as close to spot-on w/full advance mark on valve cover, then cinch down snug. You always rotate the hub CLOCKWISE until you approach the advanced timing mark. I stop just a 1-2mm before I get to the advance mark. Cinch down, then rotate CCW to verify retard mark is also on. If so, then torque T55 to 88 ft/lb.

If the marks don’t line up perfectly after torquing, it’s ok. This is why the holes for the sprocket are slotted so you can fine tune after torquing. Speaking of slotted holes, try to have your threaded hub holes “centered” in the middle of the slots.

Once done, do intake sprocket. This ones easy.

Next you can decide whether you put the timing belt on prior to or after removing cam locking tool. I did mine after as I still needed to install rear cam seals. Either way is fine & I don’t really think one is much more difficult.

The main thing is you need to get your t-belt crank sprocket/gear on the nose of the crank all the way first. Then t-belt. By now you should be able to remove cam locking tool if your rear seals are in. We’re it me, I’d take and roll the motor over by hand a few times to re-check all your timing marks. If still spot on, then serp pulley, crank nut, serp belt, then button up the rear of the head.

[abscate]

I’ve found it easier to put the belt on the water pump last, not the tensioner

[xHeart]

Before moving to VVT, fitting the crankshaft pulley over the oil pump has resulted in a CW rotation. So the two notches are NOT inline with marking on the pump, but rotated CW to 1 o'clock position. Would it be simple as rotating CCW back to intended location?

It feels nothing is holding the crank from rotating -- tapping with mallet over pulley gear caused crank to rotate?

Here is a pix of rotated location:

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