V70 Fuel Pump Replacement

[bking]

Was wondering if someone could tell me the very basic steps it takes to replace the fuel pump on a 2001 V70 T5?

Thanks!

[MadeInJapan]

Volvo
Yours has two parts to the system....fuel gauge or level sensor and the fuel pump. Remember that although you're facing towards the rear of the car, left is still left (steering wheel side for USA cars and right is still right- the passenger side for USA cars...would be opposite if you're in the U.K).

Preparation:
1. Remove the back seat
2. Remove the insulation and fold back the carpet in the cargo area


3. You'll see the left side level sensor cover....remove it
4. Disconnect the wire connector
5. Loosen the level sensor ring with a special tool (you can rig something up here once you see it...looks like the inside of a 32point socket, but very large).
6. Disconnect the 2 connectors for the level sensor
7. Loosen the tube system by pushing the release button down
8. Remove the level sensor
9. Now that the level sensor is out of the way, attach a string or wire to the attachments on the left side fuel gauge sensor (make sure it's long enough because you'll be using it later to fish out the gauge sensor).

Now for the fuel pump itself:
10. Locate and remove the hatch for the fuel pump (right side, facing the back of the car) and loosen the seal for the pump and loosing the fuel pipe.
11. Loosen fuel pump lock ring (you can rig something up here once you see it...looks like the inside of a 32point socket, but very large).
12. Lift up the fuel pump half way to release the plastic tube.
13. Turn the fuel pump (still half way out) as if you're turning a clock's hand from 12:00 to 2:00.
14. Hold the float against the pump housing and lift it up and out of the opening.
15. Pull the tube and housing out using the attached wire.
16. Once out of the car, remove the fuel pump with wire and tube system.
17. Release 6 clamps noting the clamp positions
18. Loosen fixings and push level sensor up.

Installation is in reverse (when tightening fuel pump lock ring, NOTE markings on fuel tank and cover....you don't want to have a leak).

(I tried to copy the VADIS instructions fairly completely. To be honest, they don't make much sense to me but then again, I'm not in front of the fuel pump so with a visual, the above instructions will probably make more sense).

[tripleb]

It helps to have the tank below 1/2 tank, preferably below 1/4 tank. If it's too full you'll have fuel pouring out all over the place when you take off the sealing rings.

Good Luck, Be careful!

[bking]

Thanks very much for the nice instructions!

I had some trouble with my V70 misfiring and then just stopping completely about a week after an engine software update. I had it towed to the dealer. After most of one day they said they were going to drain the fule because they thought someone had put diesel in it, they found no problem with the fuel, then they told me it needed a fule pump, they installed the fuel pump and called me to say that the engine still misfired and that it now needed five new ignition coils (they told me that some new NGK spark plugs that I had installed, trying to fix the misfire myself, had made the problem worse and caused all of the coils to fail...they said that only Volvo brand spark plugs should be used) I told them that this made no sense, I said that it sounded like they were "throwing" parts at my car trying to fix the problem and that, if the engine still misfred after the new pump was put in that, that was probably not the original problem...it was probably the coils all along...or something else. Now, after paying over $1300 to the dealer, I have the car at home and it's running fine, I was looking around to see if they really did what they said and it looks like nothing has been disturbed in the under-the-rear-seat area. I just don't trust that they are being honest about what was wrong.

[MadeInJapan]

I agree. I hardly ever have the dealer work on my cars but if I do, I always ask for the old parts they take out to verify what they said they did. These cars are very finicky so NGK plugs could have caused slight misfire or downgraded performance. Btw, hardly ever do all coils go bad at once. It's usually one and switching coils will tell you which one it it unless your code reader pinpoints it specifically.

Sorry you had to pay so much....seems like it would have been a simple fix.

[tripleb]

Good advice, always ask to see the parts, before any work is done!

NGK Plugs will cause problems, I've seen it many times. You should use the Volvo plugs.


Unfortunately the dealers are full of guys who I would never let touch my car. And I speak from working as a foreman of 2 dealers for 10+ years. It's a constant battle to get them to take the time to perform a proper diagnosis, they just want to throw parts at it and move on. It's really a shame, and part of why I'm not there anymore.

B

[bekko]

Is there a way to tell whether it is the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay which is bad??

Also, FCP Groton lists a "fuel pump relay" located in the fuse box and also a "main fuel system relay" located in the engine compartment. Would I have either one or the other, or would I have both??

2001, V70, non-turbo, 2WD

Thanks,
-steve

[PierreC]

I had a situation a few years back on my 2002 XC where the engine would just cut out while driving - scary when you're on a busy freeway at 75 MPH!

After 3 fuel pump replacements (two because of totally messed up jobs by the dealer, the first stuffing the seals, and the second because they "kinked" the intake pipe, effectively starving the pump) the problem persisted. Somebody got the idea to check the relay - they swopped it into the dealer's own V70 and could simulate the failure ... problem solved! Fortunately, all under the maintenance plan which - unfortunately - had now expired.