2009 xc90 rdesgin what type fuel should I use?

chefmarkt69 · Post by **chefmarkt69** » 31 Mar 2020, 19:10

I have been using shell 87oct gas, runs good. Should I be using the shell 93 nitro gas in it? it is a 6cly non tubo.

wanderdüne · Post by **wanderdüne** » 01 Apr 2020, 07:59

Page 129
https://volvornt.harte-hanks.com/manual ... 09-web.pdf

Post by **June** » 01 Apr 2020, 08:44

I found 129 interesting. Volvo has changed their tune from minimum 91 octane requirement in earlier years. To page 129 here 87 ok, but advertised horsepower, gas mileage, and performance are with 91 octane... to current Drive-E engines clearly say on the fuel door min 91 octane required. I can see why this subject is so confusing! June

Post by **MoVolvos** » 01 Apr 2020, 10:37

chefmarkt69 wrote: ↑31 Mar 2020, 19:10 I have been using shell 87oct gas, runs good. Should I be using the shell 93 nitro gas in it? it is a 6cly non tubo.

If someone can find an 83 240 Manual you'll see Shell was not recommended by Volvo. Friend's 83 240 IPD Intercooled went through 3 injectors 1 by 1 till the dealer asked about the type of fuel they were using. That was back in the early 80's when they purchase the car new.

I can't remember the last time I've use 87 consistently. Every time I've experimented with 87 I've notice the vehicle(s) being not as peppy and mileage was lower. Several of my brothers cars 2 Range Rovers and 1 Lexus have ran rough due to using 87 to save on fuel cost. I've also seen CAT codes on older high mileage vehicles which went away after 2 bottles of Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus in a full tank plus switching to a good 5W-40 Synthetic (not Mobile 1).

When I was in CA it was Chevron and Costco exclusively favoring Chevron.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 01 Apr 2020, 13:09

It is a Swedish car, you should use Bensin.

It will run on 87 because of the knock sensors but at reduced performance, lower MPG and shorter sensor lifespan. Use a higher octane if you want full performance, the higher MPG will offset at least some of the extra cost.

The ECM counters knock by reducing timing advance. Reduced timing advance = shorter burn time.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 01 Apr 2020, 13:29

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑01 Apr 2020, 13:09 It is a Swedish car, you should use Bensin.

It will run on 87 because of the knock sensors but at reduced performance, lower MPG and shorter sensor lifespan. Use a higher octane if you want full performance, the higher MPG will offset at least some of the extra cost.

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Thanks, not everyone understands the overall benefits including cleaner burning. MPG offsets the overall cost not to mention maintenance cost and longevity of the engine. Always frustrating when friends go back to penny pinching in the front end.

As the Fram commercial use to say "Pay me now or pay me later". Well, we now know Fram really means pay them now and paying for it again later.
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Post by **RickHaleParker** » 01 Apr 2020, 13:42

MoVolvos wrote: ↑01 Apr 2020, 13:29 Always frustrating when friends go back to penny pinching in the front end.

I can recall when friends said dam the cost give me some 100/130 Aviation gas .... I assume you know what they where doing with it.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 01 Apr 2020, 23:06

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑01 Apr 2020, 13:42
MoVolvos wrote: ↑01 Apr 2020, 13:29 Always frustrating when friends go back to penny pinching in the front end.
I can recall when friends said dam the cost give me some 100/130 Aviation gas .... I assume you know what they where doing with it.

Growing up I was more of a home and car audiophile but would work on cars once in awhile as I didn't have any friends who hot rodded their cars. I am assuming it was was used in cars?
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Post by **RickHaleParker** » 01 Apr 2020, 23:23

MoVolvos wrote: ↑01 Apr 2020, 23:06 Growing up I was more of a home and car audiophile but would work on cars once in awhile as I didn't have any friends who hot rodded their cars. I am assuming it was was used in cars?

They used it in cars. With that high of octane you could advance the timing more, run more boost and/or a higher compression without knocking.

You just reminded me to kick myself in the rear. Back in 1980 I had a change to buy a Akai pro stereo system at a real good price. Sound was superb. Still regret not snapping it up. The seller was in radio broadcasting. Took a job in the Marshall Islands and choose not to take it with him.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 02 Apr 2020, 13:31

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑01 Apr 2020, 23:23
MoVolvos wrote: ↑01 Apr 2020, 23:06 Growing up I was more of a home and car audiophile but would work on cars once in awhile as I didn't have any friends who hot rodded their cars. I am assuming it was was used in cars?
They used it in cars. With that high of octane you could advance the timing more, run more boost and/or a higher compression without knocking.

You just reminded me to kick myself in the rear. Back in 1980 I had a change to buy a Akai pro stereo system at a real good price. Sound was superb. Still regret not snapping it up. The seller was in radio broadcasting. Took a job in the Marshall Islands and choose not to take it with him.

Home: Onkyo, ESS and Sony (turntable late 80's and still have it). Pioneer was popular around late 80's for underdash mount cassette decks and amps. Friend's dad had a cabinet shop so I designed an entire removable wooden enclosure to fit the rear truck of the 83 GTI. Had a small flip up section across the entire rear for the tweeters as highs are directional. It can still be covered up by the rear panel when parked and enough room for two grocery bags

. Purchased speakers separately and picked crossovers to match.

Friend had a Nakamichi deck and reel to reel which we used to record tapes for the car. Would record in Dolby and playback in none mode to simulate highs as road noise covered some of the minor distortion. When my kid were young I said that's boom boom music coming from the car of people who wants attention and have low self esteem

so don't do that when you get older

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