Timing issue during exhaust valve job

Davolb · Post by **Davolb** » 03 Apr 2020, 22:30

Hello, everyone!

An exhaust valve burned up on Cyl #3 on my 2001 Volvo S40 1.9T a few months back and I'm just getting around to tackling the job myself. I don't have a lot of mechanical experience, and this also happens to be the first time I've personally worked on the timing for any vehicle. So I am a bit nervous about the different ways I can mess up the timing during this job.

I am currently in the process of setting the timing before I remove the timing belt, and VVT exhaust cam gear.

Here is the problem I run into. When manually turning the crank to align the timing marks on the cams and crank, I can only get the intake cam OR crank to align properly at any given moment. If the crank mark aligns, then the intake cam is advanced a tooth or so. If the intake is aligned, the crank mark is retarded. Unfortunately, the VVT exhaust cam gear (was replaced by a mechanic a few years ago) is missing the expected alignment etching so I can't use that to help figure out what's up. To me, this would seem to indicate some sort of timing issue at play, but I never had a check engine light or symptoms related to timing in the last couple years of owning it.

I'm wondering if its possible or even recommend to try and fix the timing issue before I pull the head? Or is this something I should resolve after I get the valve replaced and the head back on? If the answer is yes to either of those questions, I would greatly appreciate some advice on how to complete said tasks. I have the (Ebay) cam and crank locking tool due to be delivered next Tue.

Ive attached a pic of what everything looks like when the crank gear is aligned with the oil pump mark. Kind of hard for me to get a good pic of the crank, but I can try for better ones tomorrow. Also, the pic containing both cam gears has the intake timing mark just out of frame.....d'oh.

Thank you for reading!

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 04 Apr 2020, 00:42

Post a full frontal picture of the exhaust VVT.

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You can get this kit on eBay for $45.00.

Blue is the Crankshaft alignment tool. Inserts in alignment hole located under the starter. Starter removal required.

Green is the Camshaft alignment tool. Backside of cams.

Yellow is used to hold the front of the camshafts to the camshaft cover.

Browns are the Camshaft cover tools. Use to maintain even pressure on the camshaft cover when removing and installing the camshaft cover so that one does not warp the cover. The cover is line matched to the head at the factory. If you damage it you cannot just go and get another one. You would need to have a machinist work another one to match the head.

Davolb · Post by **Davolb** » 04 Apr 2020, 13:12

Thanks for the reply!

I have that tool set on the way. Should be here around Tues.

Here are some pics of the exhaust cam VVT.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 04 Apr 2020, 15:11

You have the VVT type that can be treated like a non-VVT unless the VVT to camshafts alignment was wrong to begin with. However you are going to pull the head. You have no choice but to remove the VVT. Everything will need to be timed from scratch. Align the crankshaft like you have done and then dive in after you get the kit.

You have a lifting beam? The front motor mount will need do come off.

Davolb · Post by **Davolb** » 04 Apr 2020, 21:01

I don't see a specific listing for setting the timing from scratch in VIDA. But can I assume that the process described for replacing the camshaft seals would effectively accomplish the same thing? Again, timing topics are very new to me so I apologize for any silly questions.

I don't currently have a lifting beam. I was hoping to get away with just supporting the engine using a jack and soft wood near or under the oil pan. I was able to do it before when I replaced all the motor mounts, but the engine was only supported by the jack for a few hours instead of the week or so it will be this time. Think a lifting beam would be the best idea?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 04 Apr 2020, 22:22

Davolb wrote: ↑04 Apr 2020, 21:01 Think a lifting beam would be the best idea?

The wheels would stay on the ground. You would not need to climb on a step stool to get things done.

You can get a one for about $60.00. Some guys have made one out a 2 X 4, large bolt, 4 " fender washers and chain. If you go that route make sure you use a good grade 2 X 4.

S40Luckey · Post by **S40Luckey** » 08 Apr 2020, 06:47

OP Not sure if you have this. I uploaded timing belt instructions for the T5 (no difference in this case). It's what I used last year when I rebuilt the engine on my S40. I used the cam-lock tool that RickHaleParker mentioned to hold the cams. Worked perfectly. The hardest part for me was that the timing belt was SNUG. It took a few attempts to get it right.

Also be aware of the temperature when setting the belt tension. It seemed trivial until I though about the implications of 2-3 degrees timing difference.

Mark

Post by **amblerman** » 08 Apr 2020, 09:01

I have used the engine support beam from harbor freight. I would not call it a lifting beam because it really can't be used to do any active lifting. It's more like a beam to let the engine hang from. (as opposed to any actual engine lift)

I can easily envision creating a support beam out of wood but I don't think I'd want to use a single 2x4. I could see using 2 or 3 2x4s that have been glued and bolted together (not screwed) or a 4x4.
Google "DIY engine support beam" and take a look at the pictures. Lots of DIY options but I didn't see any with a single 2x4. In fact a lot seem to emulate the commercial steel beams in their design. ie: two beams with a channel between them.

I would suspect the trickiest part of making your own support beam would be the ends where it rests on the car. That is definitely the goofiest part of my commercial support beam. The support towers are adjustable and seem floppy but they will fit any car.

In a DIY option you could make them more secure based on the fact that it will just before your car.

Davolb · Post by **Davolb** » 08 Apr 2020, 15:52

S40Luckey wrote: ↑08 Apr 2020, 06:47 OP Not sure if you have this. I uploaded timing belt instructions for the T5 (no difference in this case). It's what I used last year when I rebuilt the engine on my S40. I used the cam-lock tool that RickHaleParker mentioned to hold the cams. Worked perfectly. The hardest part for me was that the timing belt was SNUG. It took a few attempts to get it right.

Also be aware of the temperature when setting the belt tension. It seemed trivial until I though about the implications of 2-3 degrees timing difference.

Mark

Thanks for the response, Mark!

Was your timing messed up prior to the rebuild? My intake cam seems to be off by a tooth and the exhaust doesn't have a mark, so Rick mentioned that I need to set the timing from scratch. I don't know if the doc you attached includes the process that would set it from scratch. But if your timing was off like mine before the rebuild then I guess that's all I would have to follow!

I'm just a bit unclear on how setting the timing from scratch looks like.

Ambler,

I wonder if an engine support beam would work considering I have to pull off the head. Dont they usually lay parallel to the top of the engine?

Thanks everyone for the replies. I got the cam toolkit delivered today and I'm just about ready to dive in!

Post by **amblerman** » 08 Apr 2020, 20:26

Davolb wrote: ↑08 Apr 2020, 15:52

Ambler,

I wonder if an engine support beam would work considering I have to pull off the head. Dont they usually lay parallel to the top of the engine?

Thanks everyone for the replies. I got the cam toolkit delivered today and I'm just about ready to dive in!

Oh gosh. I was thinking of like 3 different posts and jobs when I replied to this. My mind was scattered.

if you have to pull the head, then I think the type of engine support I'm talking about would be completely in the way.

I thought about the engine support beam when you said "... was hoping to get away with just supporting the engine using a jack and soft wood near or under the oil pan. "
That made me think you had to suspend the engine while you disconnected engine mounts or lifted the engine. But then I got thinking. Why would you need to do this for removing the head itself? The block will still be attached to engine mounts (or most) won't it?

I also realized this post is in the s40 section so me looking at my s70 won't help you.

So let me start over. are you interesting in an engine lift to hold up the engine (like you would have with a jack and block of wood under oil pan) or were you just asking about getting head off? I probably misunderstood and added confusion to this. I'm sorry about that.

-A