what is the difference of the v8 gearbox

cookiepusher · Post by **cookiepusher** » 21 Apr 2020, 03:24

a question for all that searched a v8 gearbox. over here in germany it is a thing nearly impossible to come by.
my transmission quit at 340 thousand km now.
i can not imagine they produced a complete different gearbox for a few thousand v8 cars. is it noly the software that is different? or the valve box in the transmission?
can i use later transmision mounted in the 3.2 cars.

or excange my valve block into another tf80-sc gearbox?

did not find any info on the web. you guys know it all....

thank you
stefan

wanderdüne · Post by **wanderdüne** » 21 Apr 2020, 08:08

It's the same transmission, but the mounting points are different. There is no bell housing that one can swap; it's integral to the case. Donor transmission would have to be from another V8 of the same or newer year and the TCM needs to be swapped over. 2008-up are a better design for the valve body.

You said that your transmission is quit; do you know the exact issue?

cookiepusher · Post by **cookiepusher** » 21 Apr 2020, 10:42

hello back and thank you! did not know that about the mounting point. always hoped to avoid taking trans out - the v8 does not have such much play in there. so it is real hard work for days. i like more to spend this time in my garage with the vintage bus and porsches - not with the family hauler ((-:

the first issue is that the diff is worn a little. the angle gear has play on shaft - even with a new coupling piece on trans side. one previeous owner did drive with about one liter oil missing. over here this thing goes about 220 km on autobahn. no situation missing oil is the best (-:

yesterday i drove away from a red light. in front a painful loud porsche turbo so i did not hear what happened. i did not try to race this porsche - only an idiot would try. i had the feeling something made little noise and let the porsche drive away. then i heard ticking, metal noise from front. drove to the sideway, opened the door and found this ticking noice come from the middle of the car. ticking changes with rpm. in front of hte car the noise came clearly from the region where engine and trans meet. i am pretty sure this is the mess. sounds like metal is hitting at one point in there. tick tick tick. sounds like metal. not damped or inside the engine. no light, no errror in vida. so it should be a mechanical issue.

so if i have to remove the trans to find about the noise it makes no sense to remount the worn unit. i have a good used one d5 unit sitting here (got it for free) - may be i can change the diff in. but better would be an exchange part with low miles.

Masscomguru · Post by **Masscomguru** » 21 Apr 2020, 16:27

Sounds more like the angle gear let go. The part from volvo for 2005 to 2007 is 36000603 but it looks to be discontinued so it would take some investigation.

wanderdüne · Post by **wanderdüne** » 21 Apr 2020, 18:36

Does it sound anything like this?:

I was thinking possibly a loose or cracked flexplate. Only thing I could think of that would manifest at idle from there. Hopefully loose, not cracked.

I don't know this transmission well enough to say that it has an inspection plate, or if one would have to remove the starter and inspect through that hole. Keeping in mind that small diameter borescopes with good resolution are inexpensive and plentiful these days online.

It could be an exhaust component as well, or even an engine mount, so not ruling that out.

Post by **ggleavitt** » 21 Apr 2020, 20:30

"ticking changes with rpm", meaning engine RPM ?

If this is correct, then it's not the driveline, that's wheel rotation. Only odd part is that you suggested you at one point you replaced only the collar when you did a repair on the angle gear, I'm surprised if you would not have had reasonable wear on the input splines at that time.

You're not the first owner, and this is an early model V8 which means old version CB shaft bearing if it's all original and never been reworked. One thing to get out of the way before you run the vehicle again is to check the engine SN, it's on the white label on the engine block right below the PS pump. If this engine is less than 6833, could be the CB shaft needs attention but let's get some information first.

Do you know when the aux belt and tensioner and all the idlers were changed? Alternator and PS pump are original? Anything else engine related get replaced or repaired that you're aware of? I'm interested in the last 6 digits of your VIN, it's your chassis number. Don't need the whole VIN, just the last 6 numbers if you're wiling to post them. Not more than curiosity on my part but if you need to get some parts, it's good to know up front.

If you could provide additional detail on symptoms, someone ought to be able to get closer to the problem area. In the meantime, if this engine is less than 6833 in SN, you might consider NOT running it while you sort out if it's engine or not.

Could well be something else, I was also going in the direction of AWD as well before re-reading the post a few times and noting the RPM comment.

Thanks

Masscomguru · Post by **Masscomguru** » 22 Apr 2020, 06:51

good call. Here is a good thread on it with sound clips. viewtopic.php?t=87848

cookiepusher · Post by **cookiepusher** » 22 Apr 2020, 09:45

today i started the cold engine. it sounds hareder now. once the rpm drop it is better.
my iphone dropped the sound. make a better video later. but it gives an idea. this noise
came from one moment to another. about 50 meters of driving.

Post by **ggleavitt** » 23 Apr 2020, 12:06

You're running this engine on LPG or a fuel other than gasoliine? Where the sound is the loudest appears to be right when the microphone is over the top.

It's possible that you're having some vibration that's causing one of the upper manifold runner screws to chatter (loose) otherwise that is the area in which your CB shaft lives (see this link for a good write-up if it is- viewtopic.php?f=10&t=87848#p491723 ). I asked about Engine SN for a reason, can you post that please? Just serial number digits after the zero.

Anybody else care to take a guess?

042520- add link for CB shaft

cookiepusher · Post by **cookiepusher** » 14 Sep 2020, 03:44

hi guys! your help is great and you were almost right.

i make ashort write down now. longer version with pictures later. my wife decided to paint our home. then decided to have holidays. then decided we need the volvo back. i started over.

i first removed trans and torque converter. NOTE: it is not needed to remove engine. works "fine" with engine in the car. after doing it two times now (reson later) i can do it in about 4 hours this way.

torque converter was shot. one way it had internal resistance as it should. the other was it spinned freely. no resistance. while moving inner parts it rattled inside. so this was one mistake i found. spare converter with only 40 thousand miles on shelf.

i bought a diesel trans for low price (d5 type) and opended it up. all technical data show this internals are identic. only difference is the housing and valve block. so why another trans? the outgoing teeth to the angle gear were worn at 220000 miles. looked rusty - so may be ran without oil a wile at the previous owner )-:
another thing was a loud knock in the trans without oil when moving shaft. there is some play in the wheels inside. did not dig deeper at this point.

so i opened up the d5 trans. had issues in 3gear as usual - only about 20 screews and you are done. costed me 50 bugs - so worth a try. took out d5 valve block and mounted my old v8 one - that was working fine prior the knocking. measured the case haves and found out they were almost identic. there is some shims under the diff to clear differences. no need to change one. then i mounted my old v8 case half and was fine. put in unit in car. made a testdrive and trans was fine and smooth as it should. so this works. d5 valve unit was full of aluminium dust. i have no idea where it came from. no, really no signs of wear in this whole trans. may be this works after a good ultrasonic clean and flush too.

the good part: trans worked fine. knocking still present. so we were close to intermediate shaft. still no reported faults. so it only could be a mecanic fault. i remembered a screw that i did not remove. found it while changing trans. so i removed some intake, and watertubes and yound the back fixing block of the intermediate shaft loose. it had hit the cover as long as it broke and then fell off. so my shaft did only lay in palce without bearing fixed. a little wonder chain did not jump at all.

volvo and the web says you have to remove the front head to reach this. NO NOT NEEDED TO REMOVE HEAD. i did the whole repair with both heads mounted. works fine with some tricks.

finally i repaired the upper part (screw holes were worn from thousonds of up and downs untill the screws fell off). jb weld was the solution at this point. then i flatened the bearings seat and mounted new bearings ithe loctide bearing glue in this end. i know this from the past. when i worke in a print shop they repaired the shafts in 120 feet long printing machines without issues. set the screws (only about 5mm tap in the enginee case) with loctide 270 and now i am fine. i hope that works for the next 150 thousand miles now.

the eingine runs, trans shifts, i am happy so far. only thing i do not like is this: my engine is 14xx so an early one. once in the past the chain cover was opened, bearings changed and hole in block drilled. so someone worked there. the screws were not seated with the right torque. so they got loose. someone tried to torque them using a screwdriver or similar and a hammer. they were damaged. why this? if someone is able to unmount engine, delet all parts, change bearings to newer version why is he not able to torque the bolts? may be he simply forgot to torque them.

more later